Any recent pics?

Just finished putting a new clutch and flywheel in the '65 with a 240 and 3-speed trans. Everything bolted up great. Here is the parts list to make life easier for anyone else doing this: McLeod Flywheel #463200 - Link LuK Clutch Kit #07-027 - Link ARP Flywheel bolts #200-2802 - Link McLeod Pressure...

ARP Part# 200-2802 is what I ended up ordering. When I finish the total clutch job and confirm all is working I will be posting a complete parts list with part numbers and links for posterity, as I did with the master cylinder conversion post.

The local Fastenal used to be kind of like that. But, they closed their walk-in counter sales during the pandemic and now you have to pre-order everything and call them to pick it up at the door. Makes walking in with a bolt in hand to match things up impossible. The pandemic ruined so many things t...

I'm having to replace the clutch on my truck. Got a new clutch kit and flywheel, but I can't find the correct flywheel bolts for a 240. They appear to be 7/16x20 thread and roughly 1 inch long. Does anyone have a part number or can confirm this sizing? I'm a little nervous to try and re-use the bolt...

That's a beautiful engine bay right there.

Ended up getting 3/8-24 threaded rod and the ball joints from Napa and did the conversion. Clutch feels like brand new.

Just happened to me at work today in the parking lot when leaving for lunch. Ordered the ball joints to do this upgrade. I'll wait until late tonight (less traffic) and drive her home clutchless. This'll be interesting.

Zax63 wrote:It's a 223 with the stock 3 speed.

It'd be great if you could document it here on the forum. I'll be having to do a clutch on mine soon as well.

@Toyz - Where would I get such valves? I assume they can be plumbed inline? Thanx for the tip. This is the valve you want: https://www.amazon.com/Wilwood-260-13707-Residual-Press-Valve/dp/B015NNPUS0/ Technically you could plumb them in anywhere, but right near the MC is best IMO. Makes service and ...

I'd like to put an arm rest on the passenger side door, but it's a base model and didn't have one originally. Has anyone done this? Looking for advice.

Glad you got it solved. What engine/trans do you have that you are about to do a clutch job on?

oldsmiley wrote:Our Slicks should be used (for what they were made to do) and treat them with loving care and they pay us back with simple repairs.

100%

True. All my truck issues lately have been pretty simple fixes. I’m waiting on the big one.

Got in the truck Monday morning to go to work and the engine would barely turn over. That's odd. Battery? Kept at it for a bit (it was pouring down rain) and it finally cranked sluggishly. So I take off down the road and notice the wipers are barely crawling across the windshield and the turn signal...

unibody madness wrote:...you will see the water running out of the steel.

I had no idea. I need to try this. I have a MAPS torch I use to sweat plumbing fittings. Is that ballpark temp?

That's some great looking work right there. Kudos!

unibody madness wrote:I have found that lightly sweating the steal before sealing with rust reformer works even better...

Not sure what this means. How do you "sweat" the steel? Forgive my ignorance.

Good luck to Brad. Hope he's a member and can post some pics. Sounds like a fun project.

A lot of master cylinder these days, that you think has a residual valve, do not. So buyer beware. It appears your MC has different size reservoirs, whereas a '67, or any of the drum/drum trucks, did not from Ford. When I see MCs like this, I'm thinking there are not residual valves in them. I gues...