Actually, I got it backwards. It's no rear markers on a some bikes. I always wire them in for safety.
Thanks again for the info.
Donnie

R Pope wrote:Move the wire (on the headlight switch) from the park light prong to the tail light prong, and the parks stay on with the headlights.

That's my plan. I've got some other wiring to do also. I put a Lokar shifter on the C6, so I need to wire up the back up lights too.

That's so weird. I had no idea. Only thing I ever owned with no front markers is a motorcycle. Cool, thanks.

1966 F250
I was dealing with turn signal wiring and hooking up the clearance lights and I noticed the front marker lights go off when the switch is pulled all the way out for headlights. Is this correct on these trucks?
Thanks
Donnie

Sounds like I'm good. There is an after market volt meter in the dash but haven't hooked it up yet. I'm still studying auto electrical 101. Ha. Old alternator was never reconnected with fried wires. Bonus.

Yep. New one got fried. I put the old on back on, no more clicking. It still seems to show low charging levels but is working. This may seem like a dumb question, but can the solenoid play a part in that?

Ok. Did continuity testing. No burned wires. Also did continuity test on the new alternator and its open between STA and the battery terminal. Had old one tested, it tested good. I have the new one off and having it tested just to see what they say. Most likely it's fried. Awesome!

Oh I agree.

I just did the old school screwdriver on the pulley nut and its magnetized with key off. Bad alternator then?

Yeah, I checked the plug and all that. It's making good connection. Like I said, I'm going to have them both checked today. I've been putting off the ignition switch but I'm gonna break down and get one.

I haven't added anything and I can't see that anyone else has either. No radio at all. I'll be doing some sluthing this weekend. I figure the alternator may be fried. I was testing it with the meter and it was fluctuating a lot. Showing as low as 12.4, 12.6 and as high as 13.95ish all while running....

The ignition switch has been wonky since I bought it. Sometimes had to wiggle it to get blower motor, wipers and gauges to work. But that hasn't change with the exception of the gauges.

Disconnecting Stator wire, click stops. Interestingly enough, my gauges are no longer switched with the key.

Still clicks. It's real irritating. I'm pretty sure the alternator is hooked up right. Hot, ground, white with black stripe STA, white FLD. I dunno. Time to troubleshoot.

Ooooohh. I do as much research as I can before posting and I saw pics of a voltage regulator that looked similar.
Thanks
Donnie

Yeah. I have a box labeled alternator regulator, and a small deal next to it with three wires on it.
After getting all the wires cut down, I seems as though it was multiple alternator wires involved in the meltdown. I'll get them fixed up and report back. Thanks for the help.
Donnie

ICEMAN6166 wrote:you should only have 1 voltage reg either internal in the alt or external

K. The box that's clicking says alternator regulator on it I'm pretty sure. I'll check it out in a few.

it clicks because there is a draw somewhere, the clicking noise is the closing of the points inside the regulator. thats what I was wondering. Thank you. If I understood correctly, the truck would not turn over, but showed twelve volts. That sounds as if you had a bad connection at that time. Maybe...

Maybe it's the alternator regulator. I'll check when I get home. They're separate right?

I know. The question is why it clicks.