My 64 F250 with 292 and T98 has 12" clutch. I too recommend buying local. I've found LMC has poor quality and can be difficult. I am curious of your vin. My truck is early 64. VIN 450053. Thanks. Agreed they are usually crap but ordering stuff online IS sometimes easier than going to a locatio...

I need a new clutch. LMC offers an 11" and 12" clutch kit. How do I know which is the right choice? '64 F250, 292, T98 4-spd.

Thanks!
-Grant

Thoughts: The bendix gear is bad because the starter when I pull it out after starting is still in the 'engaged' position. IE flywheel contact mode. If the gear were working and the relay was the issue, the gear would still retract but sound like the starter was still cranking. Although... if the re...

I have a 64 f250, 292, t98. Last Christmas the truck stopped starting... Wouldn't start but would kick over on a push start. Weather is finally nice in chicago so I pulled the starter and bought a new one. (I replaced the starter relay prior to the starter motor purchase because they are so cheap) G...

I just went through my wiring and I was in the same boat as you - a wiring novice. Maybe something here can help you http://www.slick60s.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=33054 Still not 100% sure what mine was, but a tester light or multimeter will be very important. Test Turn signal switch with continui...

haha, I was wondering about that - but then we drive slicks right? We aren't going for 'quiet.'

Are they bias ply?

Talking about the spare? No, all of your wheel / tire setup I really like. At least they DO work! It may have to do with the increased conductivity. If you drive at night, you may want to find a pair of quality 1157s to regain that 50% additional wattage, especially if your taillamp housings have l...

Yea it looks like I was wrong that brass IS a conductor, so I do not know why they work.

Right. But could the non-conductive brass housing be isolating a ground?

Either way they work as 2057 but not 1157...? Strange.

Also F7, I like your wheel tire setup, how would one go about getting something similar?

well high beams are still up in the air, but brake lights and rear turn signals are seemingly fixed. I replaced the rear bulbs with a sylvania brass housing 2057 bulb which has the same bulb shape and design with apparently a different wattage. Not sure what the reason for this working now is, but m...

Toyz your dedication to this thread is heroic. Thank you. The wiring has all been in some state of ill-repair and I think my issue now is just something stupid down the line which is causing my issue. For example, someone had wired out hi-beams in the engine bay. They just combined two wires that wo...

Well... The current installment of this saga, yes I said saga. reattached everything I had apart and so I now have headlights, parking lights, and taillights but no brake lights. The source of the short was a bad stop light switch apparently because that left unplugged fixed the issue. Bought a new ...

I'm not really sure how it works, no. Two wires, and the ground is just the housing?

So - I thought I had this pinpointed to the brake pedal but now I'm not sure. Just now I put in a fresh 20a fuse - which is the yellow wire in the fuse box and red wire going through firewall to stop brake switch. This is the one that keeps blowing and knocking out the lights. Anyways, I put a fresh...

Another day another problem, but this is a new different one so thats good...? Thanks.

So...replaced the dash, sorted all the wires, got a new high beam dimmer and installed everything. The lights all work now up until the exact moment I press the brake pedal at which point the main 20a fuse (it is supposed to be 20a right) blows. Every time, ideas?

Thank you all for the massive amount of help - still working to fix it but this info is great. Will update when fixed.

I'm trying to understand how I had headlights before without the switch being plugged in - no obvious jumper action - could an old headlight switch have been rigged somehow to make that happen?

is the high beam dimmer switch power continuity in the plug or in the switch ? Maybe thats confusing... I have had headlights - never high beams - I assumed they were wired out in a make shift fix over the years, and the dimmer switch plug has never been plugged into the floor mount switch even thou...

dimmer switch rheostat is built into the headlight switch, no? yes. theres a thin little tab that contacts the spring and then the dome light when turned all the way. sometimes the tab is bent and no contact. old switches the spring can be crusty it is possible to carefully remove the ceramic wheel...