Nice work.

I've been shortening my own drive shafts for 40 years. Go for it.

Not sure what size pilot bushing is in a 292 but in the past I've used custom bushings and have also had trans input shafts turned down to match the bushing in an engine. In either case it shouldn't be a major expense if you can find someone with a lathe or a small machine shop.

I think most streetable 300 builds end up at around 300 lbs of torque.

I think painting the cab was probably the worst piece. I'm painting everything thing in pieces so hopefully it all matches and looks OK in the end. I have a brother who was a professional painter for years, in a body shop, production line, and painting on the side; moved on to a different career now...

Maybe it's time to sell the 292 and go for a 302? I'd be all in for keeping the 292 if the truck was stock or mostly stock but those days are long gone. A 302 and 5 speed would be right at home in your truck.

Once again I'm reminded why I don't do auto body and paint for a living. But the cab is finally painted and no runs in the blue at least.
Fixed the pictures and brought it back to my shop today.

I got the Wimbledon white painted for the two tone. Hopefully tomorrow I can paint the blue. I don't mind doing the metal work but final bodywork and finish painting are far beyond my abilities to do a true professional level job. My aim is a nice truck that I'm going to drive and use, I don't need ...

Not sure on wiring yet. Given I need the computer and a bank of relays for fuel pumps, etc., I need more than just the stock harness. I'll cut holes in the firewall if needed. Would have been nice to do before paint but I'm building a truck I'm going to use not a show truck so not to concerned about...

Just shot the cab in epoxy primer again today. I had really hoped to have the cab painted in color this week but screwed up my primer. The cab was painted in epoxy after I sandblasted it. Did minor bodywork and added another coat of epoxy over those areas. Wet sanded the entire cab by hand in prep f...

There was never a factory chrome grill on a '66. Painted steel or anodized aluminum.

No first hand knowledge since I haven't gotten that far yet but based on hanging out on several forums for the last few years I will probably go with Carpenter.

On scrap trucks I usually lifted the trans out. If the front clip is off it shouldn't be to much trouble to just roll the cab backwards on to its back and use an engine hoist to lift out the trans. Of course I'm getting to old to crawl around under trucks if I don't have to.

5 x 5.5 makes it easy. Bronco, F100, F150, 2wd and 4x4 up through 1996. Jeep CJs up through 1986 (and IH Scouts) are also 5 x 5.5 but the center hole is larger. Most aftermarket wheels where made to fit Ford or Jeep so the center hole is larger.

Looks like the 53 is really working out well. Some nice work for sure.

At least in PA a hydraulic lock will not pass for a parking brake for state inspection. Needs to be a mechanical lock. As for a rear axle for your 4x4, it does not need to come from a 4x4 truck, it just needs to have the same gear ratio. For a temporary fix you could even use a different ratio and j...

I think that's going to be a hard one. Even finding 15" wheels for the 8 lug rear might be difficult.

I like the flat bed floor. If you were going to put a cover on the bed it wouldn't matter but with an open bed I think it looks better flat.

Great to hear it's on the road, wish I could say that about mine but still making slow steady progress.

Great that he is doing well. Worked out well that you got home when you did and weren't out on patrol.