ICEMAN6166 wrote:PITA but much easier if the instrument panel is out. not required but then you can see what your doing.

The instrument panel is out, still no workey!!

Tried to get the ignition switch out this morning. Pushed the back of the switch towards the dash and held the bezel in but no joy. I could feel the switch turn about a 1/4" and I could turn it back in and feel it go into the detent as described. But it still would not fully release. I'll try a...

It has been a few days and yesterday evening I decided to look it all over again and see if there was something that jumped out at me. Boy did it. With the key off, I have dash lights which are blinking. Now the task of removing all the tape on the wiring harness and tracing out all the wires and te...

rbeck204 wrote:That regulator provides the correct voltage to the gauges.

I always thought the gauges just operated on 12 volts. Or is it a stabilized 12 volts or some other voltage?

Another related question. I see on the chart from iceman there is a 47-0888 voltage stabilizer instr. what is the function of this part. Mostly is related to voltage to the coil?

Thanks to both of you. Spring loaded, whodda thunk it???

Thinking my ignition switch may be bad and wanting to remove it for testing, but can't see how to remove the switch from the dash. There is no exterior nut and I do not see one on the backside. The key tumbler has a hole which I presume is to remove the key tumbler. The bezel is the standard Ford be...

Plug off your idle vacuum. Its around 19 inch pounds at idle. Your ported vacuum source should be the port on the passenger front mounting flange. It may have 1-2 inch pounds at idle. Set base timing as mentioned. If advance is working right you will see around 22 degrees of timing gain at 2000 rpm...

Ah, someone who actually uses a dwell meter! Your vacuum advance does receive ported (above the throttle blades) vacuum; depending on the particular distributor, it may see from 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches of mercury at 600 rpm. Paul I set my points by setting the dwell, not the point gap. Learned that mor...

I put in a new reman points type dizzy on the 390 today. Got the dwell set at 30.1. Initially set the timing at 8 btdc, then found the vacuum advance was bumping up the timing. Idled fine but ran like crap backfiring at any type of acceleration. I had thought the Motorcraft 2300 carb was a ported ty...

That's what I was led to believe, however, when at idle rpm of 650, the engine will die if the carb port is not plugged. This leads me to believe it is not ported as I first thought. So now I am going to reset the timing with the port plugged since the carb is drawing a vacuum and changing the timin...

I have a 390 in my 64 F100 and I am running a Motorcraft 2300 carb. Is the distributor vacuum advance on the carb a ported or full vacuum port?

I used Flowmaster mufflers on my 64 390. They sound great.

Headed to Sturgis with it?

Success is always nice!!! Might be a good idea to have a spare for the future.

Enjoyed the article very much. Really like the down to earth writing. Real people words.

slick4x4 wrote:Yes
You can find them in a stock from factory wheel
Or in aftermarket
The stock ones are out there.... Just kinda hard to find

Thanks for the info. Now that I know they exist I'll have to start looking for them at the local farm auctions I go to.

My 64 is on a 74 4x4 chassis and it has 5 hole rims. I have 31" tires on it now, but would like to go to 16" rims to get the engine RPM down a little. Is there a 16" wheel that would bolt on my 5 hole hubs?

I have seen this list in many places. I do know that ATF and acetone is the best. Has a short shelf life though if not sealed tight.

What carb do you have on it? If it will not idle without the choke on it is probably a plugged idle screw. You can clean them out sometimes by using carb cleaner and spraying through the hole after removing the idle adjustment screw.