Hi, Jenna from the Northwest chapter here. I've just got my 62 on the road. For my tail lights/dash light to come on, I have to pull the switch in and out over and over again before they stay on. And then sometimes they turn off again after 5 minutes.
I got a new switch and I'm going to replace it, but I was just looking through a stack of receipts, and I noticed that the previous owner replaced the switch a year or two back.
To me that doesn't seem long ago, seeing as how the truck's been around for 44 years already. Is that normal?
I'm just wondering if this is maybe a known problem with a more permanent fix that I should be considering.
Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I'm completely new to even THINKING about fixin vehicle stuff on my own, but I'm trying! Thanks much.
Headlight switch
If the person was hard on it and rough it could explain it. Stuff isn't made as good today as it was when it was new. Other things to check while you are at it are to check to see if all the grounds are good, behind the tailights and the ground up front I think . . The plug in the firewall and the switch on the floor. Mine acted bizzare before I reworked my truck but after rewiring it when I reworked it I have had no problems. If you put it in and it works with no problems mark it up to fine asian craftsmanship on the old one.
Hi Jenna from the NW chapter! Yeah, it sounds to me like the switch is not actually the problem if he replaced already. And no, one year is not long enough. I'm not saying the switch is bad, but I would go ahead and change it since you bought one. It will eliminate the switch for sure if nothing else. But I suspect wiring. Like Willy said, check all the grounds, clean them up if needed and also inspect the wires and the connectors. Trucks this old have wiring that gets hard and brittle. Sometimes it can even break inside the plastic sheathing, but appear normal outside or show a lump. The connectors also can wear out. Try jiggling the wires all along the path with the lights on while some one outside is watching. If they flicker on/off, you probably found your problem. There may actually be more than one bad spot though, so keep that in mind. I have a bad connector on my right headlight. I jiggle it and it flickers. I need to fix that.
My Slick is rustier than your Slick!
- Johnny Canuck
- Posts: 8288
- Joined: April 9, 2006, 11:14 pm
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta.
Jenna the switch in my Unibody pretty much does the same thing.
They have this less-than-one of Ford's-better-ideas setup under the light switch that is a sort of mini fuse box, hanging under the light switch by a couple of spring clips.
The whole arrangement is precarious to say the least, but since you are removing the switch to replace it, clean up all the contacts on that part that goes underneath as best you can so they make nice clean contact with the switch. a little of something called "dilectric grease", available at an automoblie parts store or electrical rebuilders, wouldn't hurt either on the contacts. Make sure that flimsy spring-clip arrangement holds everything tightly together.
and still, having done all that, I occasionally have to "jiggle " it.. like Comet says. The bright/low dash light rheostat on those light switches is another delcate balance of springs, dirt, dust, and good luck as to how long it will work. I'd say you are doing the correct thing replacing the switch, but keep the old one. Perhaps all it need is a good cleaning.
Best of luck, all things old are quirky (....like ME!! )
JC
They have this less-than-one of Ford's-better-ideas setup under the light switch that is a sort of mini fuse box, hanging under the light switch by a couple of spring clips.
The whole arrangement is precarious to say the least, but since you are removing the switch to replace it, clean up all the contacts on that part that goes underneath as best you can so they make nice clean contact with the switch. a little of something called "dilectric grease", available at an automoblie parts store or electrical rebuilders, wouldn't hurt either on the contacts. Make sure that flimsy spring-clip arrangement holds everything tightly together.
and still, having done all that, I occasionally have to "jiggle " it.. like Comet says. The bright/low dash light rheostat on those light switches is another delcate balance of springs, dirt, dust, and good luck as to how long it will work. I'd say you are doing the correct thing replacing the switch, but keep the old one. Perhaps all it need is a good cleaning.
Best of luck, all things old are quirky (....like ME!! )
JC
It's a race.. Will hell freeze over or will JC finish his truck first. Stay tuned..
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- Posts: 42
- Joined: July 18, 2006, 3:55 pm
- Location: Saint George, Utah
Headlight Switch
Read the article here in the technical section called "whiter whites brighter brights". If you have installed more powerful headlights you really need to consider making this improvement. The switch is overheating and the bimetal fuse is releasing, the lights go out, it cools and makes contact again and the lights come back on. In addition to the good advice already posted, I use a plastic wire tie on the switch and cable connection to hold everything nice and snug. Look closley at the cable connection to see if there is any evidence of overheating or charring. The dielectric grease is cheap and I use it on all electrical connections, bulbs, distributor cap terminals and spark plug boots.
When you have 90% of what you want, think twice about insisting on the other 10%! Thomas Sowell
- 66fordtrucknut
- Posts: 1289
- Joined: July 11, 2006, 11:48 pm
- Location: Eastern Shore - MD