Rebuilt 352 Long Block

PictureRocks65 · Post by **PictureRocks65** » August 10, 2006, 5:31 pm

Hi Everyone,
This is my first post, so forgive me if this has been covered. I have a 65 longbed custom that my Dad bought new and I learned to drive in. It has 78,000 original miles on it. This is a Arizona Truck with no rust, the engine has a stuck lifter, and I am trying to decide if I should have it rebuilt to keep original numbers or just get a long block and from where. :?:

mikecarson · Post by **mikecarson** » August 10, 2006, 5:47 pm

I may be wrong, but I don't think Ford used "numbers" as chevy did.

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » August 10, 2006, 10:03 pm

does the engine need a rebuild?

A stuck lifter can be un-stuck a number of ways. If it had good compression I would just pull the intake and "freshen it up" a bit.

If you do have to re-build it I would do it yourself, or have a good shop do it for you (Block, crank, cam, rods, pistons, timing chain). I say this because they (the assembly line) do not always go so well. Harder to get your money back and more of a PITA if something does go wrong.

just my $0.02

William-in-St. George · August 11, 2006, 11:31 am

Some of the lifters can be BS'd out of there without removing the intake. Not all of them, but some. May get lucky and using a magnet, coax the stuck one out? Are you sure it's a lifter, maybe a bent push rod, broken valve spring or...? If you decide to pull the intake have an engine hoist handy, that manifold (naked) weighs 80 lbs!

pj's64F250&66F600 · Post by **pj's64F250&66F600** » August 11, 2006, 11:59 am

Hmmm. It seems that rebuilding an engine w/only 7-odd k miles on it is overkill. Just fix the lifter. I don't typically have faith in "miracles in a can" but I've used Rislone to address stuck lifters and it's never failed me. I love that product.
Paul

Jonas · Post by **Jonas** » August 11, 2006, 2:50 pm

I agree with the other's. You could pull the intake in afternoon. Free the lifter and put it pack together. The only cost would be intake& valve cover gaskets, and anti freeze. Make sure you drain the block of antifreeze first or you will have a mess. The mainifold weighs in about 80 pounds so eat your wheaties. Good luck. Sounds like a nice truck

The only real numbers to keep matched up would be the date code on the block and the casting numbers on the intake, heads, and block. If you got a rebuilt engine people would more then likely be able to tell it was not orignal to the truck. Unless you got lucky and everhting was from the same time period as the truck.

If you decide to remove the intake. When you put it back on remember the small section of 5/8 hose that runs between the intake and the water pump. Leave it on the intake when your putting the intake back on the engine. It is hard to get that hose on if you wait till after everthign is together. Of course I know that the hard way.

Good Luck

FORDBOYpete · Post by **FORDBOYpete** » August 11, 2006, 3:15 pm

1st Picture Rock,
WELCOME TO OUR OLDER GROUP WITH THIS GREAT, NEW, WEBSITE.

I have to agree with the consensus here so far.

Mike is " SPOT ON", FoMoCo does not use serial or sequential matched numbering systems on engines & drive trains, but Ford does have date codes on many of the components thereof. I believe a "Long Block" is not what you would want since they only come with fitted pistons, and nothing else, a short block is the Assy that comes assembeled, but without oil pan cyl' heads, Lifters, Pushrods, or intake manifold either. So cure for lifter problems is to work on the lifter/ lifters first. :wink:

Pauls' comment is good place to start by trying something such as rislone or Marvels Mystery oil to free up the "stuck" lifter. Coversely the lifter may also be Air Bound, or it may be collapsed. :roll:

I would try the additive first, failing that I would remove the valve rocker covers and determine exactly what the diagnosis is. If I was unable to do that, I would then remove the intake manifold in order to actually see the entire valve lifting system. :wink:

Presuming your diagnosis is based on a "clack clack clack-ing" sound. I agree most likely it is a hydraulic lifter with an internal problem, based on the lack of total mileage this engine has been sitting a long long long time.
And based on that, like Paul I presume a good upper engine additive will be the remedy. I also would advise you to block the radiator air flow with a piece of cardboard paper or cloth to cause the engine operating temp to rise to a maximum. Do not let it boile over! Remove the air block B4 it gets superheated to a boiling state.

Failing this attempt then tear into it, or have a qualified mechanic who is familiar with these great older tech engines tear iunto it. Either way It's hard to conceive of an FE engine with less than 80K miles on it needing a short block engine replacement at any rate. :roll:

Having said sll that and to get back to your original question, you should not need an engine rebuild based on milage and all else being status quo.
But if you do require such, it will have no bearing other than date code mismatch and most people, even the "quasi experts" will be hard pressed to realize that, unless thay have actually been FoMoCo Tech's back in the day, or are a certified Automotive Appraisers today. . . .

Whatever the case, keep us advised & informed, we'll be here, and AGAIN WELCOME TO SLICK 60s New website & our truck talk forum page.
FBp

FORDBOYpete · Post by **FORDBOYpete** » August 11, 2006, 3:19 pm

I see Jonas & I gave similar answers at the same time but I spent more time becasue of more words, huh Jonas? :cry:

FBp

mikecarson · Post by **mikecarson** » August 11, 2006, 5:48 pm

We use Marvel Mystery Oil in aircraft with stuck lifters, seems to work pretty good.

PictureRocks65 · Post by **PictureRocks65** » August 11, 2006, 6:26 pm

Wow guys, that was alot of info. I guess I should have mentioned that it hasn't been sitting, But maybe not out on the road enough. Like once a month. for a 20 mile drive. I did try the Mystery Oil trick. but no luck, I had not heard of the other additive. I guess I would need to drain all the oil to try the other stuff? I did have the mechanic from our local Fire Dept. (I'm a retired reserver Firefighter) look at it, she pulled the valve covers and said it was the number 1 lifter, she also said I had poor oil flow. The oil gauge shows 60 psi, but I installed that gauge in 1970. It does go back to 0 psi with the engine off. :oops:

cdherman · Post by **cdherman** » August 11, 2006, 7:33 pm

You can have lots of oil pressure at the guage sender and still have crap in the various passages that the oil needs to traverse.

If I had an original engine in an original truck that my Dad bought, NO WAY would I put a reman enigne in there. The difference in cost between a remanufactured engine and having someone rebuilt the orginal engine is not that great, in the grand scheme of things. Find the right builder and you will have a better engine than a mass produced reman unit, and you'll still have the ORIGNAL engine.

I don't have the original engine in my 65, "just" a 1969 Ford remaned that replaced the original that was crap from the get go. Even though its not orignal, I am hard pressed to see it go after all those years.

Jonas · Post by **Jonas** » August 11, 2006, 9:49 pm

PictureRocks65 wrote:Wow guys, that was alot of info. I guess I should have mentioned that it hasn't been sitting, But maybe not out on the road enough. Like once a month. for a 20 mile drive. I did try the Mystery Oil trick. but no luck, I had not heard of the other additive. I guess I would need to drain all the oil to try the other stuff? I did have the mechanic from our local Fire Dept. (I'm a retired reserver Firefighter) look at it, she pulled the valve covers and said it was the number 1 lifter, she also said I had poor oil flow. The oil gauge shows 60 psi, but I installed that gauge in 1970. It does go back to 0 psi with the engine off.

If she is judging from the amount oil after removing the valve covers and looking. I would not worry to much about it. FE's do not need alot of oil under the valve covers, the problem is to much oil sometimes. Hopefully she diagnoised the problem on the passenger side, cylinder closest to the front of the truck. That would be the number one.

6166 Junkyard Dog · Post by **6166 Junkyard Dog** » August 16, 2006, 3:45 pm

I would keep the Marvel Mystery Oil in it for a little bit... Here is some :idea:

I would pull the valve covers off while running make sure there is oil going through each rocker assembly If not take the rocker arm assembly apart & make sure the oil holes on the shaft are not restricted & reinstall each rocker arm & stand the way it came off also make sure that oil return holes are not plugged at each end of the block Oil could be staying at the top & not going through the whole block like it should One other to think of is if the timing chain has ever been replaced the particles from when the chain went out are sitting either in the pan or caught in the screen,, The key is that oil has to flow throughout the block & any restriction changes the course of oil flow making things not work like its suppose to,,, Also is the history of this motor ever being apart :?:

, If so if the heads have been shaved that will mis-align the heads to intake & also cause the pushrods to be longer than they should be maybe causing not to pump up... Cam lobe has wear in it on this lifter can affect it,,, So many possibilities so you have to start somewheres Good Luck

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Rebuilt 352 Long Block

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Rebuild 352 long block

Re: Rebuild 352 long block