clip opinions

[shocker998md]

Im looking for some input here. Ive got a 66 F100 that in the future I want to clip, add power steering and power brakes. Now im a budget kind of guy and I realize there are some good options out there but they are pricey. Id love to run a dakota clip from IC but its out of my price range. The three options Ive thought of have been s10, jag xj6, or an aerostar. My buddy just happened to junk an S10 so I have a complete clip from it with the frame cut at the cab. The pros to the s10 is its free, so just time and rebuild parts would be all it cost me.

I like the looks of the install of a jag clip, it seems to be the easiest. Im just worried that I will not get the stance that I want, I want the truck low but still functional. As of right now I have 1.5 coils cut and a big block in it so it sits down a touch but id like lower.

My buddy just finished a aerostar clip in one of his older fords and he is liking it so far and it seems to be straight foward like the jag clip.

I think the things that worry me about the s10 is cutting up my frame, compared to the jag being a cradle set up that is more user friendly. Last concern is what ever clip I use I need to still keep it FE powered. So can anyone shed some light and input? I dont want to spend the money on a MII kit, or the dakota kit, so what would fit the bill that I can scounge up and do on a budget but still keep my 390? Thanks for any input guys.

[bruceandersson]

If you are really looking at a buget option that will give you power disk and steering, go with the 67-79 upgrade. You can transfer the twin ibeams directly from a new ford in an afternoon. Everything is bolt in. You wont end up with a rally vehicle but it will stop and steer with minimal work.

[shocker998md]

I want to lower the truck, ALOT. beams are a no go.

[unibody madness]

then you should consider with the crown vic swap.

[LM14]

If you have access to Jag stuff, there are several that really like that swap and can get the stance you want.

I put the Industrial Chassis kit under my '62 uni. So far I like it for the way it went together. It's still in the building stages so I have no real world driving impression with it. I have set in the seat and made motor noises and it worked good then . The center of my fender opening is 24" above the ground with stock spindles and the lower control arms at the stock angles. I will probably go an inch lower when it goes together for the final time with a slight spring cut.

SPark

[shocker998md]

Crown Vic is too wide for me and I don't like the wheels you have to run in the front.

I've talked with IC about the Dakota kits, and I know you pay for what you get but there's no way I'm spending over 2k to clip it.

[LM14]

My IC/Dakota cross member was $800. I got all the Dakota parts at a local salvage yard for $250. I put new rotors on it for another $150 with bearings and seals. A re-man rack is $89 with your core. I'm using the Dakota springs. You'll have another $150 hooking it to whatever steering column you want. I used a tilt/shifter Ididit for another $550. That's $1439 for everything but the column.

Realistically, you will have most of the same expenses with anything you do. You'll want new brake rotors and calipers, you'll have to adapt the steering column, shocks, rack, most will need everything rebuilt to do it right because of the miles on the donor vehicle. The difference is the steering column cost.

If you do it right and actually keep all your costs, they will all be very close to the same price from my experiences. My Mustang II kit in the '57 cost $2150 all told. It's not cheap any way you go, if you rebuild all the components like I always do.

SPark

[Oregoon]

Are Mustang II swaps no longer popular? I'm guessing those are hard to find from the ol' wrecking yard.

My buddy did a Granada clip in his '54 Customline and it came out super-low and fit nicely under his fenders. Parts were dirt cheap, too.

Maverick? '80s Mustang?

[LM14]

Maverick has the spring and shock on the upper a-frame (same as an early Mustang) and goes into a pocket up by the fender bolt line, not an option at all.

Most MII swaps now use tubular a-frames, aftermarket spindles, brake kits and racks. Very few use actual MII parts. I did the MII on my '57 and it cost just as much as any of the others.

The '79 and up Fox body Mustangs, Fairmonts and T-Birds are modified McPhearson struts. Hard to package in a slick.

SPark

[Alan Mclennan]

You mean like this Steve ?

[Toyz]

That's a hell of an effort. What's the recommended interval for the rope replacement?
Paul

[LM14]

That takes some special inner fenders, doesn't it Alan?

Looks god but not too crazy about the upper a-frame mounting work needed. The coilovers really help though.

SPark

[Toyz]

I'm thinking the caster/camber adjustment might be somewhat limited, not to mention jounce and rebound changes. Got to applaud the effort, though!
I'm wondering if the canted upper arms were to accommodate the inner fenders, Steve?
Any more info on the final result, Alan?
Is that artwork on the p.s. firewall?

Paul

[luckystiff]

jag xj, lexus sc300/400, 2nd gen camaro on the cheap. isn't s10 on the narrow side for an f100?

IC dakota if you got money.

c4 corvette ain't bad either...

porterbuilt if you've got way to much money.

mustang II is ok. i've said it time and time again i get that stuff at dealer cost and my truck has jag in it.....

my truck with the jag notched 3" into the frame sits about as low as you'd want a static truck to. as low or lower than 2nd gen camaro clipped trucks. my truck at ride height is 5.5" at the rocker @ the front of the door and 6.5" @ the back of the door at the rocker.

[Alan Mclennan]

That's a hell of an effort. What's the recommended interval for the rope replacement?
Paul

replace when the frayed end wears out Paul!

[Alan Mclennan]

Paul, not much to report, the canter arm`s?, do you mean the upper arm supports?, they have been engineered and passed, it is a kit from a F100 supply place in Victoria..http://www.thepickupplace.com.au/
We are fairly limited to what's available down here.............

this pic shows it sitting at ride height with spacers holding her up while I was waiting for longer coil overs...

[LM14]

Your sway bar is on the back side, your steering wheel is on the right side....I'm so confused!!!!!

SPark

[Toyz]

Yes, Alan, the longer coil-overs explains it .I was looking at the lower arms and thinking they appeared level, while the uppers were far from it.
After reading you and Leith's comments about regulatory approval for modifications; I was wondering how that worked!
That looked somewhat like a combo of our Falcon/Maverick/Mustang setup combined with the bigger full-framed cars.
As you probably know, our Falcons are unibody, (making the Rancheros "unicab unibodies" ) with a similar design except for the heavy "KK" member, and utilizing a upper A-arm mounted shock inside spring setup. This results in an almost hood-level upper shock mount.
I'm assuming your caster/ camber adjustment is at the upper control arm shaft, correct?
Thanks for the info , pics, and link!
Paul

[Alan Mclennan]

The shock tower on the Falcons here is the same, and yes your correct about the caster/camber, have you been studying?

similar to this

https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/imag ... Ch0pN1M9Fv

[6166 Junkyard Dog]

Hold the phone, wait a minute, am I looking at something, Alan your brake booster is on the wrong side , does that take special engineering ,, Sorry could not resist ,, looks good