Sound deadening the '66

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Mazlem
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Location: Central NY

Sound deadening the '66

Post by Mazlem »

CAN YOU HEAR ME NOW?!


Since it's not on the road yet, I only have what I've read and noticed to go on, which is that the setup for these trucks allows for a lot of wind / road noise. The doors sure sound cavernous when you rap on them. So while I'm STILL waiting for the insurance paperwork I decided to do something about it.

Everything I put sound deadening material on got two layers. I may put some foam down, probably in the doors, definitely on the roof.

Doors (not much to look at, but..) - BARE. The panels also got a layer of material. Image


Here's behind the gas tank, (which would have shown the original baby-blue paint except the camera changed it to white..) BARE. And covered:
Image

I've been looking at speaker placement too. After taking out the kick-panel vents to clean / paint, I checked and 6x9's will fit there perfectly and blend right in. I've just gotta figure out how to shield them from the wind an such from the vent holes. Maybe I'll just use a 6x9 box and secure them using the vent screw-holes.
Last edited by Mazlem on August 25, 2006, 9:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
BigTim
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Post by BigTim »

That looks good. Is that dynamat?

Let us know how well it works.
Mazlem
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Joined: August 16, 2006, 11:48 am
Location: Central NY

Post by Mazlem »

It's RAAMat BXT from RAAMAudio.

I've allready had good results in my Grand Marquis and a couple friend's cars. I've done the doors and trunk of the Marquis so far; the noise from passing traffic is noticably quieter. Once the floor an roof are done, road and rain noise should be more so since I'll be adding foam material too.
Shawn F.
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Post by Shawn F. »

Looks great! I need to do this to mine as well but then I wont have nothing to cover back behind the seat or the headliner. I have the stock headliner in there that is like cardboard but man that is UGLY! Any idea's of how to cover these area's nicely? I was looking at Rod Doors but they are way too expensive and also the door panels are boring since there are only a couple of different styles. Now here is something else I have heard you can do to save money... Go to Home Depot or a place such as that and get the insulation stuff with the foil around it that is for hot water heaters and then get some 3M adhesive or something similar. That is supposed to work and also there is the stuff in sheets or in a roll there too that is used for roofing or flashing or something where it's like tar with a foil wrapper on one side and you can stick it inside your doors and when you close them it adds some weight and density so they wont slam loud and helps with noise.
Anyone here know what I am talking about? I heard of some people using it but then some said they had rust problems behind the tar one. I am thinking though that if you paint back there first then there will be no problems???...
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Comet
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Post by Comet »

I've heard of using the Home Depot sound deadening stuff. From what I've read, you get what you pay for. However, there are quality alternatives to Dynamat that are cheaper. I'll be the stuff Mazlem posted is cheaper and probably as good.
My Slick is rustier than your Slick! :D
Mazlem
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Location: Central NY

Post by Mazlem »

The stuff at Home Depot is called Peel N' Seal an it's asphalt based. The first problem with that is when the truck gets real hot it'll smell like, you guessed it, asphalt! You also have the risk of it turning into a puddle when it gets too hot.

The RAAMAudio stuff is butyl (rubber) based and is half the price of Dynamat. It's rated for 300F and is suposed to soften but never liquify. I've got the floor done now. With two layers on everything I've used 60 sq ft so far, (one roll is 62.5 sq ft.)

To dress things up you could get some carpet for subwoofer boxes from Best Buy or some arts an crafts store maybe? Or maybe carpet from a junker car. Some black foam would work too. Just use good adhesive, especially on vertical / upside-down areas.
Shawn F.
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Post by Shawn F. »

Well that is good to know about the concrete thing. He is a link to this guy's site that I saw this on about 2 years ago. Go to this link and then look for Interior Insulation Phase One. He has this cotton like stuff.
What about that Cool It stuff in JEGS or Home Depot? It's 47 bucks for a 36"X60" roll or sheet. It's for sound and heat it says.
cdherman
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Post by cdherman »

Yeah... on the suject of adhesive. Do NOT TRY the spray on stuff. By the time you have enough on the roof or where-ever you are trying to stick something, the vapors and overspray will have left a light layer all over in the cab.

And then it will fail.

Luckily, I was concerned about it failing, so I didn't install the headliner right away. After I found it draped over my stearing wheel, I went and bought a can of the nasty sticky kind of contact adhesive that is used by covering both surfaces, letting them dry, and then putting them together.

THAT worked! And it wasn't really as bad as it sounds.

HINT: a little of the spray on stuff to make the deadener/insulation just tacky enough to hang on to the side/underside of the surface is helpful. Once you have everything positioned, you can then peel back 1/2 of the sheet, do the proper adhesive, and cement it home for good.
1965 F-100 240 Autolite 1101, Disk brake dual master upgraded, swapped over to C4 and powersteering. Bought by my Dad new in March 65'

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Shawn F.
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Post by Shawn F. »

http://alanhorvath.com/54chevy/index.php#howto
Probably a good idea to actually POST the link. LOL
Mazlem
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Post by Mazlem »

For a friends headliner swap in his VW GTI, we used 3M spray adhesive. It sprays like webbing and worked awesome. I tried some cheap Duro brand stuff when covering the trunk lid of my Grand Marquis with foam, an it fell off sometime that night. The spray adhesive I got from RAAMaudio looks just like the 3M stuff.

When I get around to making a new access panel for the tranny that'll get covered. In the meantime I just put some foam in place to cover the gaps in the crappy one the previous owner put in. So here's pics of the floor all done for now:

Image

Image
cdherman
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Post by cdherman »

The adhesive that failed for me was 3M. Not to say it doesn't work for some folks, but in my instance I was glueing to the roof. Lots of pics of floor and side walls here. Upside down is another story, in my experience....
1965 F-100 240 Autolite 1101, Disk brake dual master upgraded, swapped over to C4 and powersteering. Bought by my Dad new in March 65'

1683

Planned/considered upgrades:
Perhaps power brakes, 300 I6 motor and JUST maybe, AC!
Mazlem
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Joined: August 16, 2006, 11:48 am
Location: Central NY

Post by Mazlem »

The stuff I'm showing here is the self-stick rubber-based material (RAAMat.) I've never used additional adhesive for it. That's not what you're talking about using adhesive on tho, is it? If it is and you were having trouble putting it on upside down, you've just got to heat up the surface first. I ran into that when putting the RAAMat on my Mercury's trunk lid; just heating up the lid made all the difference.
Mazlem
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Post by Mazlem »

I did the roof today. One layer of RAAMat an one layer of foam, (it's functional and doubles as a headliner till I get one.) :D

I dunno about the 3M stuff we used before, but I checked the RAAMaudio adhesive an it says it's a contact cement, so it should hold well; we'll see in the morning!

Here's pics of the roof:

Image

Image
Shawn F.
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Post by Shawn F. »

Looks great! I need to get me some sound deadener like that for my roof and floor and even inside the doors. It's loud as heck in my truck but then again there is NOTHING but a original 66 headliner in it which is only cardboard with a bunch of little pin holes in it lol.
Shawn F.
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Location: Charlotte, NC

Post by Shawn F. »

Looks great! I need to get me some sound deadener like that for my roof and floor and even inside the doors. It's loud as heck in my truck but then again there is NOTHING but a original 66 headliner in it which is only cardboard with a bunch of little pin holes in it lol.
Texas Monty
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heat blocker

Post by Texas Monty »

I did pretty much exactly what you did inside ceiling- what I noticed was the heat protection. It is quieter no doubt, but the heat blast off the roof dropped alot. and that counts for alot here in Texas.

The insulation stuff I used I got from LMC truck - no problems - sticks very well. I am going to try the doors now.
"Linda Lou" 64-F100
Shawn F.
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Post by Shawn F. »

Texas, did you use the same thing here called RAAMAT or the stuff from LMC? No Limit Engineering carries some kind of insulation it's a tall roll of it for 22 bucks I think it is. Two rolls is supposed to cover the floors, back of the cab and roof it says (I don't know if that means truck or car)... Anyone use this stuff?
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Comet
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Post by Comet »

I tried finding the stuff on No Limits website, but couldn't. Gotta link?
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Mazlem
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Post by Mazlem »

For the RAAMat stuff one roll is 62.5 sq ft. I used a whole roll on the floor and doors, (two layers.) It'd have been more if the carpet covered the area on each side of the seat. I'll probably use another 5 sq ft in the middle of the floor when I make a new access panel there. The roof was a single layer ~10 sq ft.

One thing I noticed afterwards was the carpet slides on the deadener. I'll probably spray some adhesive down an let it dry so the carpet will have some friction underneath but still be removable.
Last edited by Mazlem on August 29, 2006, 2:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Comet
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Post by Comet »

Mazlem, how much did that roll cost?
My Slick is rustier than your Slick! :D
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