1963 223 started easily in shop but started noticing "growl" when I killed it - I'm by myself so I couldn't be sure but I think it was coming from starter. Checked and re secured grounds, growl at kill stopped. Got in truck to move it home and about a half mile down the road it started making a screeching noise. Bad. I turned around brought it back to shop. Killed it and tried to restart - turned over slowly and will not start. From. my very limited knowledge base, I determined it could be that the starter bendix/drive was sticking in the engaged position, making the noise at rpm and could have damaged the starter. I just pulled the starter and will take it to be rebuilt or at least tested tomorrow.
I also did a generator/alternator swap - could that be a problem? (But I don't think that's where the noise was coming from - not sure)
Am I thinking straight? I don't know what it could be but I am willing to listen if anyone has ideas!
Diagnosis? Help!?
- unibody madness
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Re: Diagnosis? Help!?
sounds like you are on the right track. the only other problem being if you had the alt. belt too tight you might have fried the bearing?
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viewtopic.php?f=32&t=18944
It does not matter what you think, it only matters what you do about it!
Re: Diagnosis? Help!?
Thanks for the reply! Fried alternator berring? This might be a stupid question, but how tight should the belt be? I think I had it fairly tight btw - I hope that's not the problem. How do I check to see if the berring is bad now?
Re: Diagnosis? Help!?
Normally, I would attribute a "growl" after running to an engaged drive as stated, sometimes caused by a bad starter relay or feedback through in-correct wiring. If you were able to get it to turn over afterward, though, the alternator conversion adds some potential concerns. More information might help. What type of alternator conversion, ie, external regulator, internally regulated, "one-wire"? Also is the starter oem, or is it also "upgraded"?
Paul
Paul
The Ford Orphanage
Life's too short for boring vehicles!
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Paul
Life's too short for boring vehicles!
My quest to develop a universal solvent is held up by the lack of a storage container.
Paul
Re: Diagnosis? Help!?
Starter is oem. Alternator is internally regulated delco (3 wire)
Btw - if it means anything - when I pulled the starter out this morning the drive gear was pulled close to the starter which I think is "engaged" with this motor/starter combo
Btw - if it means anything - when I pulled the starter out this morning the drive gear was pulled close to the starter which I think is "engaged" with this motor/starter combo
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Re: Diagnosis? Help!?
Sometimes these alternator conversions work so well that the drive belt slipping is an issue. Usually this is resolved when the battery is fully charged and or a slightly larger alternator drive pulley is installed. I have also used that drive belt stickum spray with good results. The alignment between the alternator and crank pulley could be an issue. Could just be a sticky Bendix. Post back and let us know what the real issue was.
William-in-St. George
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Re: Diagnosis? Help!?
The bendix being engaged is normal when the engine has been spun over but not started, this design uses engine RPM's to disengage the starter drive.
After you tighten a belt get half way between the pulleys and with your thumb press down, the belt should not give more than a half an inch.
The alt. bearing, slip the belt off the alt. pulley. Turn the pulley by hand, it should spin freely with no roughness, noise or resistance. There should be zero up and down movement and not more than a few thousandths end play of the shaft itself.
Hope this helps,
Tom
After you tighten a belt get half way between the pulleys and with your thumb press down, the belt should not give more than a half an inch.
The alt. bearing, slip the belt off the alt. pulley. Turn the pulley by hand, it should spin freely with no roughness, noise or resistance. There should be zero up and down movement and not more than a few thousandths end play of the shaft itself.
Hope this helps,
Tom
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