Jaguar xj research questions

[ohmthis]

To start, I don't want this to turn into a pissing contest. Please let's keep it to facts. I have a 66 f100 and have several mods planned for it (IFS, EFI 5.0, t5, and others). I have taken the CV front swap out as I don't like the width and wheel choice. I think I'm leaning toward the xj6 swap. I have a donor with rebuilt calipers, turned rotors, and new shocks that I can get for $300.
So here is my questions. How can I tell if the rack is bad or worn? Realistically, what are my wheel options? Do I need anything from the steering column? Do I need to get the hoses for the power steering, or would custom hoses need to be made for the jag to ford pump? Is there anything else I need to get from the donor?
I'm not concerned with the fab part of the swap. It's the little things that get overlooked that make a swap successful. Are there any links to someone that has done this on a 65 or 66? Thanks everyone!

[randyr]

Try doing a search...there's a guy who was doing the XJ6 swap into a '66 but I haven't seen any updates for a while. There's also the thread by the guy who did the jag swap in a '64 but that's a different animal.

As for wheel options, the Jag has the Chevy bolt pattern 5x4.75. If you're keeping the stock rearend, you could have the axles redrilled to match or run adapters.

I've read some good things about the Jag swap. Will be interesting to watch. Hope you post up a build thread.

[ohmthis]

Randy, thanks for the reply. I have done a search and also quite a bit of other sites too. Most all of what I've found is for the straight axle. I'm still looking as I need a very complete plan before going forward. I'm just trying to cover all of my bases and asking questions is another resource to use.

[jamesdfo]

Here is a thread where the fellow has used jag IFS on a '65, he would be one to ask, as he has completed the swap.............

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=32292

[randyr]

Here's the other thread I was talking about. The Jag stuff starts somewhere on page 2. Lots of detailed pics. Hope that helps! viewtopic.php?f=32&t=28932&hilit=66+f100+jag

[shocker998md]

Theres some YouTube videos on a 65 but it wasn't finished. Matts write up on his 64 is very informative and the only difference would be getting the eye beam mounts out of the way.

[Toyz]

Actually, as you know, there is quite a bit of difference between the leaf and coil spring trucks as to steering and frame variations. This is all pretty well documented in the previously linked builds.
As to the steering rack and other "wear" items; you are dealing with 30-plus year old parts. Unless they obviously have been recently replaced, my thoughts would be to at least budget for replacement.
Unless you are comfortable with incorrect offsets, your options are pretty well limited to OEM Jag wheels, or custom wheels. If keeping the OEM rear, easy solution is to utilize rear adapters, which work well since our trucks have a narrower rear original track. Wheels from some some 4x4 S10's have been said to work; even if that is correct, those would not make my personal approval list. If wanting "big 'n littles"; you could ignore the wheel differences, since you would not likely use the "bigs" on the front anyway.
IMO, you are starting out on solid ground! I believe the Jag makes a good conversion; my concerns are the future availability of replacement parts for a somewhat limited market, and the inevitability of future upgrades which might entail changes to the original conversion.
Like you, I "test-fit" the CV components; they just did not generate that "yeah!" feeling. I have also spent an inordinate amount of time walking the path between my wife's Jag and both leaf and coil spring frames with tape measure in hand.
Getting a little off-topic from your direct questions; my overall conclusion is that, for my wants, a custom-fabbed setup such as those from Industrial Chassis or Porterbuilt are an attractive consideration. I have yet to see IC's conversion for the coil-spring trucks, but the ability to remain with OEM pattern and appearance wheels, and easier to obtain replacement components; as well as the financial "bottom line" for utilizing all new wear components; pushes me toward the IC product. That's the nature of the fabricator's "hobby", each has his own concepts and needs in mind; thus helping to avoid a cookie-cutter world!
Full disclaimer: with a Fatman conversion, an early Town Car clipped setup, an upgrade from a later twin-beam, and an early slick with disc brakes and soon-to-be power steering currently at my shop; I will probably not be doing any kind of additional conversion in the foreseeable future
Paul

[ohmthis]

Randy, THANK YOU! The link did help me alot.
Paul, I was hoping you'd chime in. I haven't bought anything or committed to a certain front end. I do know that the CV is out. I'll do some research on the IC setup (it is just a cross member that you have to piece the components right?). The jaguar is attractive to me because of the width, complete package, geometry (no guess work if it's right), it seems pretty simple, and the up front cost is pretty low. I'm trying to wade through posts and sites to get all the info before going down that road.

[65styleside]

I put one in my 65. It wasn't too bad, but it did take some problem solving.
1. Your column is up high the rack is low, you will need a double u joint at the column, a single u joint at the rack and a support bearing.
2.ps- depending on you pulley set up you may be able to build a mount for the jag pump and use it. I put in a 4.6 with a serpentine belt, I used the 4.6 pump. my ps pressure was way to high, it was fine in parking lots but got twitchy at highway speeds. I put an in line pressure reducer? Can't remember the name of the part right now. It's basically a block with an adjustable valve in it, it bleeds fluid from the pressure side to the return side. All custom hoses with AN fittings built with parts from speedway. The stuff from my local hydraulics shop was to stiff to make the bends. I got AN adapters for the rack and pump off EBAY. Also added a cooler, from a cougar if I remember right.
3. Wheels- the jag has a big hub so wheels can be tricky. I just used some spacers since I have some pretty positive offset wheels. Even with spacers there is tons of room in the fender. I think guys make a bigger deal out of the hubs than needs be.
4. I used the rack that mine came with mine from the junk yard for months until a seal started leaking. Autozone has a special every other month or so where they give you 25.00 bucks back for every 100.00 you spend on Internet orders. I think i spent 400 on a new rack, tie rods, ball joints and brakes but then I got the 100 rebate so technically 300 for a rebuilt front end. I didn't have any trouble finding any parts, it might say jag but they are all american parts, GM if I remember right. I don't think replacements will be an issue.
All in all I am happy with it, it rides very nice. The power steering is a little stiffer than a Honda civic but it works great.
That's all I can think of right now, hit me up if you need some more info.

[65styleside]

I'm off tomorrow, I'll get some pics up finally.

[65styleside]

Here's a pic of the steering linkage.

Here's the ps valve. It's a heidts adjustable power steering valve

[65styleside]

Here's how far the front wheels are tucked.

[65styleside]

Also I replaced the column with a chrome 28" one from ididit. Originally I got a chrome tilt from eBay. It was a piece of s#@t. There are articles out there about how these cheap chrome tilts are breaking at the tilt joint. They do not have a redundant system built in like factory tilts. When they break you loose ALL steering. They are dangerous and should be thrown in the trash. Spend the extra money and buy quality parts from American manufacturers. No sense in spending countless hours and thousands of dollars on a project just to put it into a guardrail trying to save a couple hundred bucks.

[Toyz]

Good info there! It might be good to get the column info into hints and tricks. It is too easy to find these at swap meets and eBay. You are not the only one who "saved money" by purchasing these offshore columns, then spent more money to replace them! The big concern IMO, is the ones in use which have not yet failed. I often hear, "well, mine works just fine!". Sorry for getting off-topic, but this is info which needs to be widely addressed.
65 styleside gave us some good hands-on info; his solution for the wheels addresses a good option; one could conceivably utilize a Jag to 5.5 adapter to allow use of an interchangeable wheel,even though aesthetics might dictate the use of rear spacers for our already narrow oem rears. Key words IMO, are the use of high positive offset wheels to approximate the original Jag offset.
In answer to the earlier question, yes, from my limited knowledge, the Dakota kit is a crossmember kit to mount the Dakota components. LM14 would be a good source for that info, or might contact Steve at Industrial Chassis. Steve is said to have had experience with the Jag conversion, also, and has proven to be a candid source of info.
Paul

[65styleside]

Good idea toyz, I'll type up something over in tips/hints.

[ohmthis]

65, great job and thanks for the pictures. A couple questions, is the column a stock replacement with tilt or just a universal? It looks like you are using cast iron manifolds, do you see any problem with shorty style headers. I have a wrecked 89 mustang gt that I'm stealing the drive train and whatever else I can use.

[65styleside]

That is just a chrome straight 28" column from Ididit, universal i guess. I never used the tilt option on the pos tilt I had so I just thought I would save a couple hundred buck and put in a straight. They actually didn't have any in stock so they built it completely to my specs. I put in a wiring kit, it came with a gm plug for the steering column, so i had ididit wire it to match, nothing better than plug n play. It took about 4 weeks to build and ship but they where an Awesome company to deal with.

As far as headers, my 4.6 dohc modular engine is huge. It is way wider than your 5.0. These trucks have plenty of room under the hood, I would think you could easily run whatever headers you want.

If you have room to keep that mustang around while you build your truck, do it. There was probably a dozen things I needed that I didn't think of when I pulled the drive train. I just walked out back and grabbed it, it saved me hours of junk yard hunting or waiting on parts to ship to me.

[ohmthis]

Thanks 65, I forgot that you were using a 4.6. I plan on keeping the mustang around until im at least driving the truck. Im going to commit to the xj front end, I see a ton of up side. Im also going to do a build here.i would get it now, only problem is that we are getting record cold right now and there is no way I'm getting out in it any more than work makes me. Thanks all!

[randyr]

ohmthis, I have a 5.0/AOD from a '92 Mustang in my '66. I don't have the Jag suspension but I do have DJM drop beams. I'm running JBA shorty headers and have no clearance issues at all.

Are you going to keep the 5.0 fuel injected? I did and I love it!

[LM14]

This is an IC kit on a leaf truck, I haven't seen one yet on a coil truck.

Here are the IC parts. The diagonals at the front of the frame are not part of the kit but I had to replace both of mine due to a PO getting torch happy.





The Dakota parts needed







Ride height and wheel placement with the kit installed.



Goes in easy, fits great. I imagine the coil kit fits and works just as well.

Don't do a Mustang II kit, they are a little light for the weight of the truck. Several companies make them but in my opinion, the IC kit beats the MII kits in every direction. I don't have anything against the MII kits, in fact I am installing a Heidts MII kit in my '37 sedan but it is a much smaller and lighter car.

I will also say I have absolutely no experience with the Jag. They just don't exist in my area (rural Iowa) and no parts are around here. The Dakota is in every junk yard in my area so parts are easy to get.

SPark