Grandsons 351w heads

[64 f100]

Have a few questions about heads concerning my grandsons engine rebuild. As some of you may have read, things got out of hand with this build. Lots of problems mostly because I found a C9OE block and decided to build it instead of the later block that was in the truck. Turned out to be a very bad decision. Now it's time to do the heads and what I'm running into is cost of doing the C9 or DOOE heads I have. Hardened seat cost about 25$/valve seat. Exhaust valves are mostly what needs done, which runs to 200$ for that alone . Then cleaning , valve grinding etc. which is roughly another 400$. I've noticed aluminum ProComp heads for about the same price with better ports, but these have a bad reputation from what I've heard. I need to stick to 60cc chambers to get the compression ratio I'm looking for between 9-10 to 1. I have a set of world product senior heads that may only need a touchup, but I am reluctant on using these heads on this motor. Trying not to build to much motor for my grandson. I had thought about using a set of the later GT40 heads as I can get a set for reasonable money, but believe the chambers may be larger than I want. Plus, the valve rocker system is different. I'm leaning towards using the DOOE heads and thought abouth just touching up the seats instead of putting in hardened seats. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Rich

[Roger Carter]

In my experience a complete rebuild on a set of stock cast iron heads will run you near the cost of low end aftermarket aluminum heads, as you stated. Quality aftermarket pieces will cost a bit more, but you get what you pay for.

Depending on the use of the rig hardened exhaust seats may not be necessary, but considering their cost when compared to what you will have in the engine, it is cheap insurance. Remember, a good shop won't install new seats in a head with iffy valve guides. You may be looking as having new guides installed along with new seats.

You mention the GT 40 heads. They are a very good choice, but as you mentioned they can come with their own set of issues to deal with. You didn't mention the different angle of the spark plugs. This difference can make fitting exhaust manifolds, or headers, difficult.

I understand wanting to stay with a "reasonable" compression ratio. You can typically get away with a bit more static CR with aluminum heads, due to their heat dissipation characteristics. I usually try to shoot for 9.0 to 1 for a cast iron headed street motor that will run and live in pump regular gas.

Valve trains can be real issues when mixing and matching parts. Try to use the same type rocker assemblies that came originally on whatever head you choose. Worst case then is needing to get selective on pushrods. Even if you cant find "stock" pushrods to give you proper geometry, aftermarket pushrods aren't terribly expensive.

I'm not sure where you are with the build, but I always try to develop the static CR with a blend of combustion chamber size and piston configuration. If you already have the pistons your task will be a bit more difficult. Using the C9 or D0 heads with a flat top piston in a Windsor block will yield about a 10:1 CR, with a dished piston, about a 9:1 CR.

From what you posted I would suggest the least expensive, best for you, though not necessarily the best overall option (in my opinion) is to do a quick refresh on the C9 or D0 heads and call it good, at least for now.

Not sure if my comments answered your questions, or if they even helped but I hope they did.

Good luck.

[64 f100]

Using dish pistons and mild cam , looking at about 9 to 10 compression with 60cc heads. Only drawback besides cost to the D0 or C9 heads are the exhaust port size. Really chokes the motor which is fixable but hate to spend the time . Besides porting is nasty work and hard on tools. Been looking for a set of used world product junior heads . I have a set of seniors and I may use those, but those need to be checked out and valves may need touching up. May need other work also. Ran across another problem today while installing pistons in the block. Number 5 rod has the cap on backwards I've seen this before but only a very few times. Deciding now what I want to do. Parts have been harder to come by since the Chinese were buying all our scrap. Engine blocks used to be plentiful but are getting harder to find. Feel certain I can come up with another D8OE rod but just a pain to have to do it over again. The rod was ran the way it was and most likely wouldn't hurt a thing but just goes against the grain to have it that way. Thank you Roger for contributing to the discussion. I appreciate your input and suggestions. I have the ability and equipment to do a valve job , but some of my equipment is getting old and is a little iffy from age. I don't have valve guide tools nor any way of installing hardened seats or I would do it myself. It's easy to get a thousand tied up in heads. I have one set of y-block ECZ-G heads that I have at least that much in.

Rich

[LM14]

I would just put the stock heads back together with Manley stainless street valves, good springs and retainers and let him drive it. You can add Lead substitute once and a while if it makes you feel better. What is the realistic life expantency of the engine in miles when done? With a mild cam and low compression, I would really be surprised if you see any problems before you either decide to upgrade.

The Pro Comp heads aren't worth taking home.

I have a single Windsor Jr that is bare and has been ported if interested.

For the cheapest setup try to find a low miles set or late model heads an bolt them on. Get the factory hardened seats and don't worry about port size. It's a street engine. It will sound good and hove more torque with the smaller ports and you're really not going to see the RPM range that needs bigger ports on the street.

JMO

[66camperspecial]

I hear you on the heads,I just had a set of 70 302 heads gone through with all new intake valves and guides plus one exhaust valve and had about 500 dollars in them. I was going to find a set of E7 heads but would had to redrill steam holes and it got cold where I did not want to spend a few hours grabbing heads at the local pull and pay so I had the original heads repaired.

[BarnieTrk]

Say Rich,

I don't know what all you've done with your 351W block, but maybe if not much and you'd consider getting a 302 block, you may be interested to consider what I'm selling. See it at: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=35413

BarnieTrk