OK - I'll come clean. This problem is not on my slick, but rather on my Jeep. But I wanted to run this by some of you guys before I proceed. Here's the deal...
The water pump was going out, so I replaced it - no biggy. But in order to get the new one in (and the old one out), I had to remove the metal housing that goes over the thermostat. This is a straight 6 - the housing mounts right to the head on the front of the motor.
Everything went fine until I was re-attaching the housing. I was tightening her up, and snap - the bolt broke. I backed the other bolt out and removed the housing. The snapped bolt was sticking out of the head by about a quarter of an inch.
There is not enough space between the front of the head and the radiator to get a drill in there to go the easy-out route. And I reeeeeeeealy don't want to remove the radiator. I ran the scenario by a guy here at work, and he recommeneded threading a nut onto the snapped bolt, tack welding the bolt to the nut, and backing her out. Sounds like a great solution. Can anyone here think of a reason that I should NOT do this? Or anyone want to offer up an alternative solution? I'm all ears...
Snapped off a bolt...
snapped bolt
Well Jim, that sounds like it might work, unless it breaks again.
Might want to shoot some penetrating oil around it (aresol type) and then with the nut welded on, go easy on it back and forth and see if it will loosen up some. I have an FE head with 3 exhaust manifold bolts broken off in it, so I know what you are going through. Good luck on it. TR
- mikecarson
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You could do that, but can you get some Vise Grips on it? Not some chinese imitation, they ain't good for this. Be easier than trying to put theards on it. Dies are about 1/4 inch thick, so you'd only get it started, not enough threads to get a nut on.
Might could just weld a nut to the stub, without trying to thread it..??
Might could just weld a nut to the stub, without trying to thread it..??
Mike C
64 CC, Crown Vic project
62 CC
67short 94 F150, 433W
Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive body, but to skid in sideways - body worn out and screaming: Woo Hoo, what a ride!"
64 CC, Crown Vic project
62 CC
67short 94 F150, 433W
Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive body, but to skid in sideways - body worn out and screaming: Woo Hoo, what a ride!"
- mikecarson
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- FORDMANLCRACKEL
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JIM
I ALWAYS WELD A WASHER TO THE BOLT FIRST THEN I WELD A NUT TO THE WASHER. THAT GIVES YOU MORE WELD AERA. THE HEAT FROM THE WELDING WILL LOOSEN THE BOLT. HASENT FAILED ME YET. MIG WELD IS THE EASIEST.
LONNIE
I ALWAYS WELD A WASHER TO THE BOLT FIRST THEN I WELD A NUT TO THE WASHER. THAT GIVES YOU MORE WELD AERA. THE HEAT FROM THE WELDING WILL LOOSEN THE BOLT. HASENT FAILED ME YET. MIG WELD IS THE EASIEST.
LONNIE
The most rewarding job i ever had was being a dad.
1988 Ranger Build http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj31 ... %20RANGER/
1988 Ranger Build http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj31 ... %20RANGER/
I agree with Fordmancrackel. Don't let the bolt cool after welding, but don't turn the bolt if it's molten hot either. I'd give it about 30 seconds after welding and slowly turn it. It should free right up. Oh, and don't use any penetrating fluids, they catch fire and you shouldn't need it with the weld/heat method.
My Slick is rustier than your Slick!
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I also lightly, but not too lightly, tap the end of the broke off stud, it kinda "loosens" the threads a little.
1961 Uni LB
1962 Uni SB
1941 Dodge 3-win
1950 Hudson FB Coupe
1953 Hudson Hornet
1936 Ford "Roadster" Pickup
1941 Chrysler Club Coupe
1936 Ford 4dr Sedan "Gasser"
**WANTED-- 1941 Mopar frame**
1962 Uni SB
1941 Dodge 3-win
1950 Hudson FB Coupe
1953 Hudson Hornet
1936 Ford "Roadster" Pickup
1941 Chrysler Club Coupe
1936 Ford 4dr Sedan "Gasser"
**WANTED-- 1941 Mopar frame**