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PostPosted: September 14, 2017, 3:21 pm 
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Joined: July 18, 2006, 7:23 am
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Location: Carmi, Illinois, 62821
This is a 66 with what is supposed to be later mounts for a Windsor, I have a 351w with aluminum bell housing with ribs ( early 80's ) and a T5 bolted to it. What is the minimum amount of room for clearance I need to get the pan off and out of there? Hopefully, someone has the answer to this. I sure don't want to pull the motor if I don't have to.

Rich


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PostPosted: September 15, 2017, 6:09 pm 
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Joined: February 16, 2017, 9:04 pm
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Location: kingman arizona
National Flag: United States of America
i have aways had to lift motor to get pan off twin i beam fords undo mounts lift motor put 2x4 under mounts usually gets nuff to get pan off


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PostPosted: September 16, 2017, 8:02 am 
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Joined: July 18, 2006, 7:23 am
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Location: Carmi, Illinois, 62821
Well I got the pan off, but it was a pain of course. I raised the engine as much as I could. The bell housing pushed against the firewall causing the engine to move to the passenger side. I managed to get 3 inches of clearance but it was a problem as the motor mounts pushed against the pan. Getting oil pump back on and the shaft might be a real problem, and I will have to drop the motor back down to get the pan gasket on. I bought a one piece gasket to go back on. Hopefully I can manage to get the gasket t hold on the block while I remount the pan. Odd thing about the gasket, the instructions are to not use any sealant on it, and I've always used sealant in the corners and bottom of the lip on the ends. Anyone know why the instructions say not to use sealant?

Rich


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PostPosted: September 18, 2017, 6:36 am 
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Joined: August 12, 2009, 9:44 am
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Location: Ohio
What material is the gasket? If it is neoprene or silicone, just a little oil on each side. They need to be able to move along the surfaces as they are being tightened.


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PostPosted: September 20, 2017, 9:19 am 
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Joined: July 18, 2006, 7:23 am
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Location: Carmi, Illinois, 62821
Thank you Bruce, I was concerned about engine oil running down out of the engine and have wiped it off mating surfaces repeatedly during this nightmare. For those that would like to know, the bell housing I used was an aluminum one made with ribs from about 1981. Had it been a steel bell housing things would have been much better, as those don't have the high reinforced ribs. These ribs would not let the motor raise enough without t he firewall pushing the transmission to the passenger side because of the firewall offset. The ribs hit the lip from the seam on the firewall that extends out about and inch. Not all firewalls are exactly the same on these trucks, bear this in mind when doing a swap. Had I known about the clearance issue, I would have found a steel bell. I ended up pulling the radiator so I would have room to work, and could set up while putting the oil pump back on. I had to remove the oil pump rod and distributor also, to reinstall the oil pump. I have a magnet with a long handle made of copper wire and shoved it from the bottom up thru the distributor guide hole and pulled the pump rod up from the bottom then held the magnet with vice grips to keep the rod in place. This worked, sort of, and I had to put it back about three or four times before I got the oil pump on. During one of these episodes, is when I decided to remove the radiator, which made things much easier. You may ask at this time why I did not just pull the motor. I would have had to pull the transmission first, and that opens another can of worms, because of the close tolerances I worked with when installing the transmission. I will have the pan back on today but will have to drop the motor back down to accomplish this as when it moved to the left while raising the engine, it also moved the engine over to the motor mount and the pan will not go on that way. One other things I have found, is the Fel Pro neoprene gasket is not as good as the Ford SVO gasket in my opinion and cost is about the same. The Ford gasket has reinforcement all along the pan rails and so it does not sag down so badly as the Fel Pro gasket which I have dealt with in an odd fashion with long bolts that I cut the heads off of and used as guides, then clamps to hold the gasket up while I get the pan on. I also used the 4 plastic pins (came with gasket set), two for each end, to hold things in place until I can get some bolts into place. The sad part of this is, I still have not found the source of the pinging noise. I used my stethoscope and found it loud in the pan area and not at all on the top end, which is all aluminum. I did find some small pieces of metal in the pan but nothing that was not consistent with startup of new engine. I will be pulling the valve covers and checking to see if any valves are bent. Wondering if I might have some sticking valves. If I find nothing there then off comes the intake , another PITA as this motor has high port heads and takes a special set of gaskets that cost around 60$ and at that I trimmed the ports to match. If I find nothing there then off comes transmission and out comes motor for a complete tear down until I find the problem. Bah humshit!


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