Slick 60's

Hey guys, Ive been trying to seal up my 64 f100 for a while and I'm closer but it still has some leaks. My driverside seems to have been leaking from the seam under the dash that on the outside is under the cowl vent, I seem to have stopped it by temporarily siliconing a seem on rhe outside-I know..but its paintable and the hood seal will be on top of it...and I'm no where near ready to paint) and then it was leaking where my floor pan repair met my kick panel becasue the kick panel had a hole the size of a silver dollar at the bottom..and I slowed it down but I had a quarter sized puddle right under that area and couldn't see where it was coming from and that took a few minutes after I sprayed water on the cowl for a minute..no pressure just let it run. So what areas do I need to be aware of that go to leaking on seams? Im pretty sure my passengerside is now due to my cowl vent needing some stickem putty like it had originally. As always thanks in advanced

check your wiper pivot gaskets.mine were gone and it leaked like a pos.i took them out and seam sealed the pivots to fix my leak.

ratrapp wrote:check your wiper pivot gaskets.mine were gone and it leaked like a pos.i took them out and seam sealed the pivots to fix my leak.

i know my passenger does if I put a hose on it but rhis is very clearly as far as I can tell coming from the corner seam under the dash all the way over thw harness plug in the firewall...and I paintable siliconed it today and it still leaks...my passengerside is fixed...but I don't know what todo...other rhan take the silicone off and try again..started at 7 and finished up around 7pm..very frustraited with it..

There is a seam sealer in both paintable form (able to brush on) and in a tube. I suggest the brush on. The wiper pivots are a leak source, as the original seals were leather, you can now get a rubber replacement from carpenter. Bear in mind neither is a good fit, and body shutz (form of sealer comes in box usually in about 10 inch strips, I box should last for years) is needed.

I laid the w/w bezel over a bicycle inner tube and cut out two gaskets a side, worked great.
Try getting the front end wet without the windshield, then slowly raise the hose up the windshield. I found my windshield leaked and caused the exact same problem.

I have mentioned this before, I cannot stress this enough about leaking windshields. If you take the truck to get a new windshield installed make sure they use the bedding compound which is nasty stuff and non hardening. The reason you need to use the bedding compound is because of the poor spot welding which often will not seal without the compound. The area around the windshield opening is riddled with pock marks and dilberry's from the welding process. New rubber is pretty much a necessity and I use the bedding compound which is not available from Ford but 3M makes it, and you can find it on Mustang sites at about 13$ a tube or a PPG store . Otherwise, I advise working the area before windshield install to smooth out the imperfections before having the new windshield installed. Getting the frame smooth will make the glass slide in like butter. Same with the rear glass although it is tougher. Although most know about the bedding compound I am sure there are many that do not as being new to these trucks.

Ok, thanks guys, ya I'm having my wondsheild done a second time, it took him 4 times to make it quit leaking and I dont trust rhat he didnt seal the inside by the way he acted..but I will check again...and thanks for the tips. Ill see if I cant get some pictures posted. I found out what my passenger leak was...my antanna was pocked through rhe lower cowel...water ran down and would gush in the cab..one step at a time