Carb fix

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unibody madness
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Joined: December 4, 2008, 4:33 pm
Location: Paradise,CALIFORNIA 95969
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Carb fix

Post by unibody madness »

If you have a 292 with original carb chances are your idle sometimes runs where set, and sometimes a little higher, 500 to 700 lets say. The problem I found is wear between the brass throttle rod and steel actuator plate, allowing the throttle plate to close but not the choke side.
The rest of the carb is fine.
You can remove the carb and attempt to mushroom the brass rod tighter...try JB weld... or some type of heat brazing... all of which are time consuming, dangerous or prone to failure, or try doing it in place.
I tried drilling between the plate and the brass shaft and using a small sheet metal screw to pin it , but found that although it fixed the slop, tightening the screw always increased the idle on the choke side.

After tinkering for awhile I found that one of the headliner washers are shaped just right to bridge the brass shaft, but too deep to pin the shaft.
Looking through my bins I found a 6/32" screw, a small washer, and star locking washer.
The brass shaft is center punched so I drilled and taped the rod.
I then drilled out the center of the headliner cone, hammered the remaining center flat using a drift pin punch that fit, so that the resulting cone washer cleared the brass shaft.
I then tightened down the screw through the lock washer washer and cone washer, while holding the choke side of the shaft counter clockwise against the stop. After I vacuumed the brass fillings I figured it would take less than 1/2 hour start to finish without the trial and error that took a few hours
John
Turk build thread at:
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=18944

It does not matter what you think, it only matters what you do about it!
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