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Powder Coat Frame?

Posted: October 7, 2017, 8:33 am
by Gota64
So I talked to a shop about getting the frame on the '64 blasted and they asked if I wanted to powder coat it as well. Is this a good idea?

If getting it powder coated should I remove the rivets and replace with bolts in order to remove the rust behind hangers, shock struts, crossmembers, etc and get each part powdered separately?

Just looking for advice from those in a better position to know then me.

Thanks

Re: Powder Coat Frame?

Posted: October 7, 2017, 9:36 am
by Day 2
Not a big fan of powder coating... but heres some pros/cons about the product that might help you.
https://www.pittsburghsprayequip.com/20 ... r-coating/

Robert

Re: Powder Coat Frame?

Posted: October 7, 2017, 10:29 am
by grump
I worked in the dish rack area before I retired. The dish racks were powder coated and any where there was a sharp edge or a burr the coating was going to fail. The coating process was different than what your talking about but once you have a weak spot it's just like paint. It's over all tougher than paint but it's also harder to fix correctly when it does go bad. I'm a painter so I'm probably a little prejudiced toward paint over powder coat. ha ha. I realize that doesn't answer your question but every bit of knowledge has to help a little.

Re: Powder Coat Frame?

Posted: October 7, 2017, 11:36 am
by longcabjohn
It's lasted 50 years with nothing, so that bring said I painted mine with tractor paint from tractor supply after wire brushing.



Johnny

Re: Powder Coat Frame?

Posted: October 7, 2017, 12:13 pm
by slick4x4
Just depends on what your building &
How much you want to $pend

Sand blast & good paint will be nice

I just wire bushed & painted
But I drive sanded roads... it's gonna come off

Re: Powder Coat Frame?

Posted: October 7, 2017, 1:36 pm
by Gota64
Sounds like sandblast and paint are the general recommendation here. The estimate for powder coat was about $400 following the sandblast.

That is why I asked as it was somewhat affordable for me at that price.

Thanks for your input.

Re: Powder Coat Frame?

Posted: October 7, 2017, 7:33 pm
by shipwrecked
I used a roll on bed liner material called Monstaliner. I just scuffed and used a wire brush. Any rusted areas I used chassis saver first. Then the bedliner material. I topcoated it with black paint after and it looks good still. Almost two years.

Re: Powder Coat Frame?

Posted: October 12, 2017, 7:05 am
by SLICKCOLLECTOR
i like POR15. it is hard as a turtle shell. if your frame is clean it will not come off. i have also tried chasis saver but it not as good. thinner and cheaper but i went right back to POR15 after trying it. it will not come off your hands either so wear gloves. summit has it. around $50 a quart. it looks good when done . can be topcoated with paint if exposed to the sun.

jim

Re: Powder Coat Frame?

Posted: October 12, 2017, 4:40 pm
by LM14
I'm a big fan of powdercoating. I've been able to get several race car chassis blasted and coated for less than it cost to actually buy all the supplies for a paint job. If you are honest with yourself, the cost of sandpaper, primer, paint, thinner, etc.....way more expensive than powdercoat if you use anything but the cheapest paint available.

If they do a good job blasting, you won't have any problems. If they do a quick job you will get rust under the powdercoat, just like bad prep on a paint job.

The stuff is almost bulletproof if applied correctly. Won't chip easily, brake fluid doesn't bother it, basic heat doesn't bother it. It's basically like paint but tougher. You can actually polish and buff it to a very high shine if you want to take it a step farther. I even know a few guys that use it as a primer so they get all the hard to reach areas coated inside bodies on some high end builds. You shoot powder in the general area and it will coat all sides of the part. The powder is electrically/magnetically drawn towards the metal.

The drawbacks are it's harder to remove if you want to weld on the frame for any reason (race cars get a lot of damage so we got good at removing powdercoat). It's also hard to get into an area there 2 parts meet at a very small, tight angle. Something like the bellhousing mount crossmember to frame junction may be a bit harder to coat, or the diagonal braces at the front of the frame. Takes special care to get full coverage in these tighter areas where pieces interrupt the magnetic flow of the particles.

I plan to powder mine when it goes together for the final time. Plan to do the suspension, frame and a few other pieces with powder. I actually have some parts sitting at the powdercoaters right now! I've done frames, suspension parts, intakes, rearend housings, wheels and more. I use it whenever I can.

SPark