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 Post subject: Ignition switch
PostPosted: October 14, 2017, 8:12 am 
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Joined: July 18, 2006, 7:23 am
Posts: 2783
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Location: Carmi, Illinois, 62821
I've run into some differences in the switches being sold for our trucks. Part number is supposed to be C3AZ 11572 A . What I've encountered is that there is an extra metal contact tab on the back of some of the switches being sold and these are listed as fitting a lot of trucks. I've tried using one of these switches and have ran into problems at times. Do any of you know what the extra tab is for. and do these switches actually work on our trucks or not?


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 Post subject: Re: Ignition switch
PostPosted: October 14, 2017, 11:23 pm 
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Joined: December 20, 2016, 9:28 am
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Location: Durham nc
National Flag: United States of America
It's not only switches. With China getting rich off the States, there's a lot of things that don't fit like it should, or may not fit period.

I rebuilt a steering column for a friend in Ca. He sent me the column and bought a rebuild kit from a company in Ks. and had them drop ship the kit to me. The bearings were undersize and would wallow around in the hole, rather than being pressed in tight like original ones. The turn signal switch looked great until I started to install it, and realized that the wiring came off on the wrong side (and there's not enough room in the column to switch it over to the correct side). The shift collar has a sharp casting edge in the bottom of it, and if you don't grind it out smooth, it will cut into the turn signal wiring after a few shifts and short everything out and could possibly burn your truck up.
The spring on the bottom of the shift tube was such a loose fit that it kept coming off. I had to remove it and rewind it to a tighter radius so it would remain on the shaft while shifting. Also had to ream the shifter handle hole out in that shift collar. I couldn't get the handle all the way in until I did.

BTW, depending on who rebuilds YOUR column, I'm sure you'll see a bit of a price increase with all that extra labor to be done.....BUT you didn't hear it from me.


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 Post subject: Re: Ignition switch
PostPosted: October 15, 2017, 8:39 am 
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Joined: July 18, 2006, 7:23 am
Posts: 2783
Images: 70
Location: Carmi, Illinois, 62821
I do my own rebuilding as at 75$/hr. shop time I cannot afford to pay someone else to do it. I rebuilt my column once but installed a shift socket off Evilbay and the pin immediately wallowed out the shift pin hole as I did not manage to get it in right. On top of that I had the parts from 3 or 4 columns I had disassembled for parts. Unfortunately, I had picked a good shift tube to go in, but managed to pick up the wrong tube when I went back together with the column. Shift lever hole was wallowed out, so a combination of loose parts have the shifter all screwed up. A real PITA to have to go back in and redo the column as I will have to remove the pins from the plugs and pull out the wiring and then reinstall it after replacing the shift tube and collar. Don't know if I can pull the shift tube without pulling the whole column again, but will give it a shot. Plan on pinning the shift arms at the bottom of the column with a drill bit so the shift arms will not move ( I hope). For those that do not know, there is a little square attachment at the bottom of the column that you slide a (5/32?) drill bit into when aligning the shift forks for neutral. As to the ignition switches, I bought one from a local parts house that the Key tumble would not fit in right, and had to take it back. Right now, I am having some dash problems, as once started the gauges are not working. Bought a new voltage regulator from Carpenter and took the old one apart to see if it was defective, and it was not. Thinking it's either the ignitions switch or a grounding problem. I am working on two different trucks .


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