Slick 60's

I tried for an hour to remove the front drum from the drivers side of my 1965 f-100 2wd. The rear drums fell off with a couple of hammer taps.

Is there something I'm missing about the front drums compared to the back, or did I just not use the right curse words?

Other than a bigger hammer or throwing some heat at it I have two suggestions.

1) I don’t wanna point out the obvious but did you take the wheel bearings off?

2) Try getting in behind and loosening the star adjusters to take pressure off the hub from the shoes.

Good luck!

ThinLizzy13 wrote:1) I don’t wanna point out the obvious but did you take the wheel bearings off?

You have to take the bearings off to get the drum off? I thought it was the other way around. I'm just trying to check the shoes and wheel cylinder.

Inside the dust cap you have to take the cotter pin out, the cover, and then screw the spindle nut out that’s on the wheel bearing. Then the drum should just slide right off.

Adjuster wheel:up is in and down is out

ThinLizzy13 wrote:Inside the dust cap you have to take the cotter pin out, the cover, and then screw the spindle nut out that’s on the wheel bearing. Then the drum should just slide right off.

Thanks much. I've never worked on front drums. Only rear.

Taking carter pin, and bearing nut off, is easiest and will enable you to a) check wheel bearing and b) re-grease same. Chances are the drums are either rusted on, or brakes are set too tight. Once the drum is off you will know which it is. A BF hammer will then allow you to free swing on center hub, remember to protect it with a thick metal plate or hunk of wood. Sand both surfaces before installing and I use anti sieze to prevent it from happening again. The last set I did required a 10 pound sledge to get its attention, the tolerances are tight.

Note that while the posted info is correct for 1965 F100's with self adjusters, a screwdriver or other tool is needed to release the adjuster lever. I would NOT attempt backing off unless the assembly (wheel tire, drum, hub), will NOT move toward you without releasing!
On other slicks, one may need to turn the adjusting screw in opposite direction to release; some also have an additional cam adjuster at the anchor pin. Front drums can be separated from the hubs on many applications; those will have cap screws holding the drum to hub. Recommended procedure is still to remove bearings, hub, drum and wheel as a unit, then separate as needed.
Paul