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PostPosted: October 20, 2017, 1:19 pm 
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I don't mean how far can I drive it, but this can easily turn into one of those "while I have it apart maybe I could just... (insert time, money and any part).

While watching the straight six run with the valve cover off, half the rocker arms had running oil. And but for the dry one, the others were just above moist. My thought was all new lifters and push rods. But can I get away with replacing the one rocker arm?

The truck is a 65 F100 with a 240 by VIN. Was told once that it could be a 300 based on the late block date code. Don't know that it matters for what I am doing, but sure seems like a good time to find out.

So how far do I go? I can already foresee convincing myself I need a new cam too... well then timing set... I just put a new clutch in in it. And was so thrilled with how it was running after sitting for awhile. So I would rather be driving it.

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PostPosted: October 20, 2017, 3:30 pm 
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Can’t really help with the problem but a 240’s stroke is roughly 3 1/4” (3.18”) and a 300’s is 4” (3.98”).

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PostPosted: October 20, 2017, 3:59 pm 
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Perfect. Thank you.

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PostPosted: October 20, 2017, 8:20 pm 
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I'm embarrassed to say that when I was a lot dumber... I mean younger I drove a 1/2 ton with a 300. It leaked so bad it took two cases of oil to get me the 1100 km to visit my girlfriend. I would add oil when I started to hear the valves clicking and clacking. I drove it like that for two years, probably 30 000 km

Based on my experience, it will run until it clicks so bad you can't stand it. Your mileage may vary. LoL

*Edit*. After correctly reading your post... Forget my whole story about "how far you can drive it...". I'm going to blame it on my reading this on my phone.

Nic


Last edited by mercuryv8 on October 20, 2017, 8:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: October 20, 2017, 8:26 pm 
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Maybe some smarter advice would be... why don't you pickup another 300 block and rebuild it at your leisure while you see how far that motor with the oil problem goes. If your going to be replacing cams and timing sets and everything anyway. Then it will also be the least amount of down time. How many miles are on your engine now? What kind of shape is the bottom end in?

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PostPosted: October 20, 2017, 9:00 pm 
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mercuryv8 wrote:
I'm embarrassed to say that when I was a lot dumber... I mean younger I drove a 1/2 ton with a 300. It leaked so bad it took two cases of oil to get me the 1100 km to visit my girlfriend. I would add oil when I started to hear the valves clicking and clacking. I drove it like that for two years, probably 30 000 km


I had a 65 with a 6 cylinder back in the early 70's. I did the same thing (add oil when I heard the valves clicking). Always worked well for me. THEN, I got a Job at a local gas station (The Little Rebel). It was an older station with a fairly new owner. The 2nd week I was there he came in and said, clean all the old stuff off the shelves and we're going to put in some NEW stock.
I looked up on the top shelf and there sat 1 single pint can of a product that came over on the Mayflower I'm sure. It was called King of the Road Oil Treatment. I figured what can it hurt, SO I put it in my truck. About 3 days later, NO valves ticking like usual....hummmm. I'm on to something now :D

A week later and ALL'S good, 2 weeks later and I'm beaming from my great idea. Almost 3 weeks later I checked my oil, and it didn't touch the stick :( I added a quart, and it still didn't touch. I added 2 and 1/2 more quarts before it ever got up to the add oil mark. Then I topped it off to FULL, and never added an oil treatment again..... :oops:


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PostPosted: October 20, 2017, 9:10 pm 
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Hi Nic, She squeels real good. When I grab the push ride as the truck is idling the squealing stops. It sounded so bad I almost told her at home when it started. But there was no engine knock and it runs real good so I took a chance.

I just don't know if I should do the one lifter pushrod and rocker arm? Should I just do all the lifters while I'm there? I'm looking to drive it sooner rather than later.

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PostPosted: October 21, 2017, 5:07 am 
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I know what you mean about one little thing snowballing into something larger. I have a 300 with a blown head gasket and the planning for the job is quickly going from head gasket to full blown rebuild. “Well I’m already in there so...”

Gnant wrote:
I just don't know if I should do the one lifter pushrod and rocker arm? Should I just do all the lifters while I'm there? I'm looking to drive it sooner rather than later.


I think it’s important to keep in mind what you use the truck for, overall condition of the engine, and money (duh).
My trucks are just drivers, and I like to drive them and use them for “truck stuff.” I typically replace things when they are broken, excessively worn, or about to break. This isn’t everyone’s style, so do whatever you’re comfortable with :2cents:

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PostPosted: October 21, 2017, 11:14 am 
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Gnant wrote:
.
My trucks are just drivers, and I like to drive them and use them for “truck stuff.” I typically replace things when they are broken, excessively worn, or about to break. This isn’t everyone’s style, so do whatever you’re comfortable with :2cents:


I use to be of the mind that I want to rebuild it all and in perfect shape... Then I didn't drive any of my projects for years.... And years. It's much more fun to fix what needs it and get it on the road.

... Jamesdfo - don't mention my floorboards or cab mounts. :)

Nic


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PostPosted: October 21, 2017, 12:42 pm 
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Just for fun before you go thru all that try a quart of marvel mystery oil in it to see if that breaks things loose.
I have heard of old timers putting in a quart of kerosene or tranny fluid before a oil change to help clean out the galleries.
Its already fubar'd so why not try

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PostPosted: October 22, 2017, 1:29 pm 
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unibody madness wrote:
Just for fun before you go thru all that try a quart of marvel mystery oil in it to see if that breaks things loose.
I have heard of old timers putting in a quart of kerosene or tranny fluid before a oil change to help clean out the galleries.
Its already fubar'd so why not try


unibody madness......... might have you on the right track. I know someone on here a few weeks ago asked if old trucks got arthritis, THAT I'm not to sure about.

BUT, sometimes when the problem you are having happens, it's kinda like a blood clot (I get them quite often). Sometimes the right medication (marvel mystery oil, kerosene, or transmission fluid) may just desolve the clot that's causing all the problem, and the blood..."I mean OIL will start to flow again". If it does I would run it maybe a couple of day, THEN be sure and change the oil.


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PostPosted: October 23, 2017, 10:37 am 
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Thank you everyone. I am going to try and just replace the one lifter, push rod and rocker arm. The rocker arm and top of the pushrod are dammaged from lack of oil. This way I am only dealing with one valve adjustment.

Parts are ordered. But before I replace them, I'll run mystery oil or tranny fluid and see if I can get more oil flowing on the rest. I appreciate the ideas.

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PostPosted: October 26, 2017, 10:06 am 
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Damaged push rod and rocker mean metal in the oil if parts have ground off. I would replace what need replaced and change the oil and filter. I don't know if you can find a drain plug with a magnet attached these days, but it would not be a bad idea to try and install one if you can one. One way of looking at it, is if it ain't broke don't fix it. 300 sixes are not to hard ot come by, and you might want to find a good one and set it to the side, or maybe a small block V8 instead. It's much easier to swap engines and often cheaper than an overhaul. If you have one ready to drop in whether you rebuilt or used, you can always overhaul what you have after you pull it and have it ready for the next time. Although, that event may end up being never. If, it were me, I would replace what parts you've determined need it, and forget the rest until needed. The engine could crater today or never. As to running some additive in the oil, transmission fluid is extremely detergent and could cut some things loose, but don't use more than a quart in the motor, and maybe not that much. You have not mentioned if there was a lot of sludge deposits in the engine or not. Sludge usually means not very frequent oil changes and poor maintenance, or possibly a change in oil brands.


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PostPosted: November 6, 2017, 12:08 pm 
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Thank you for the advice everyone. Just to update. I replaced all the lifters, pushrods and rocker arms. All but for a few rocker arms were bad. The links below show the difference and why oil wasn't flowing.

This is the new rocker arm. The oil hole communicates with the dome for the push rod. And oil can move freely to the top of the rocker.

https://1drv.ms/i/s!Au7oGslkRZsUiqokIRyI915WwSR0kQ

This is the old rocker arm. The dome for the push rod has wore past the oil hole so oil could not escape to the top of the rocker arm.

https://1drv.ms/i/s!Au7oGslkRZsUiqoj5lirjCmAiiBiVA

The difference is top end oil is dramatic. Wish I could post a video.

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