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 Post subject: Headlight switch stuck
PostPosted: November 6, 2017, 11:48 am 
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The plunger on my headlight switch will not pull out at all. Anyone else ever run into this? Anybody have an idea how I can get the switch out without destroying something?

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PostPosted: November 6, 2017, 9:52 pm 
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Will the shaft still rotate? Or has the entire assembly froze in position?
My first attempt would be a healthy dose of lube thru any openings I could find.
Let soak, wiggle, worm, soak and repeat.

I've had terminals burn up causing the plastic to adhere to the moving assembly.

The only cure for deformed internals is to disassemble from the back side.

Remove wiring, find the tin ears that retain the plastic parts, pry them back.
It depends on how burnt up it is , on if parts fly or need forced apart.

Good luck

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PostPosted: November 7, 2017, 10:59 am 
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FarmMotorSports wrote:
Will the shaft still rotate? Or has the entire assembly froze in position?
My first attempt would be a healthy dose of lube thru any openings I could find.
Let soak, wiggle, worm, soak and repeat.

I've had terminals burn up causing the plastic to adhere to the moving assembly.

The only cure for deformed internals is to disassemble from the back side.

Remove wiring, find the tin ears that retain the plastic parts, pry them back.
It depends on how burnt up it is , on if parts fly or need forced apart.

Good luck



It does still rotate and even clicks when you spin it counter clockwise to turn on the interior light. But it does not budge at all when you try to pull it out.

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PostPosted: November 7, 2017, 12:04 pm 
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are you sure you are pushing down on the release button? i assume you are trying to turn on the headlights? shoot some lubricant on the button if you can.

jim

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PostPosted: November 7, 2017, 12:24 pm 
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You've got a tricky problem, normally the answer would be take it out - but you cant take it out without pulling out the knob and shaft. The switch was available from NAPA as of a few years ago and is definitely available from suppliers as is the know and shaft. I'd disconnect the battery, and spray wd40 or similar in and see if it frees up. If not then I'd use large channel locks to destroy the plastic part after pulling the fuse block off to try and save the knob and shaft.


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PostPosted: November 7, 2017, 1:02 pm 
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Simply pull the shaft out as far as possible, clip it off as close as possible to dash, unscrew the retainer nut, and remove the switch. More than likely, you will be able to remove the remainder of the shaft by playing with the release button while using pliers to pull on the shaft.

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PostPosted: November 7, 2017, 1:05 pm 
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Note that there are two different lengths of replacement shafts and knobs, so, if possible, determine which you have. Both fit, one.just sticks out about a quarter inch more.

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PostPosted: November 7, 2017, 2:24 pm 
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When you say it will not pull out at all. are you saying the shaft will not come out of the switch, or you can not pull it out enough to turn on the head lights, just rotate it left and right to turn on interior lights?

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PostPosted: November 7, 2017, 2:59 pm 
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Guys, it's not that I can't pull the shaft out of the switch. I can't pull the switch out at all. It is stuck in the off position and will not even pull out a millimeter.

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PostPosted: November 7, 2017, 3:35 pm 
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In that case I would buy a new switch/knob. Cut or break off the knob, unscrew the old and swap it out.

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PostPosted: November 7, 2017, 5:17 pm 
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[quote="Zax63"]Guys, it's not that I can't pull the shaft out of the switch. I can't pull the switch out at all. It is stuck in the off position and will not even pull out a millimeter.[/quote
What John said! That sometimes indicates a broken rheostat insulator, still requires replacement.
A little extra foce might save some effort.
Paul

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PostPosted: November 13, 2017, 1:02 pm 
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Got it out. Had to pull the knob off and use vice grips. I didn’t want to destroy the factory knob but now that I see the amount of pitting it wasn’t usable anyway.

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PostPosted: November 13, 2017, 2:04 pm 
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Glad it worked out, hope you saved the shaft so you know what length to get for the new switch

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PostPosted: November 13, 2017, 6:10 pm 
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unibody madness wrote:
Glad it worked out, hope you saved the shaft so you know what length to get for the new switch


Yeah, I still have it all. The switch appears to work now that it is no longer stuck. But with the obvious moisture issue I still think I should replace it. Are there multiple switch types as well?

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PostPosted: November 16, 2017, 9:57 pm 
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Yes, but '61/'64 F100 and F250 all utilize the same switch.
Paul

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