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PostPosted: February 20, 2018, 8:53 pm 
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Location: Lawrenceville, GA
My driver's side regulator has started giving me issues. It rolls down easily but up is very difficult. I've removed it from the truck, sprayed it with wd40 in an attempt to clean and lube things and it does not seem to help. The only problem I see is that the splined shaft for the handle does wobble about 1/32", so there is wear. Otherwise, the gear teeth and the rest of the assembly look good for a 57 year old part. Is there any kind of fix or is it just time to replace?

How do you remove the glass from the door? I can't figure out which way to turn it to get it out. The rear lower corner does not quite clear the access hole no matter how I try to turn it. I've followed the shop manual in terms of what to loosen or remove.

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Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.


Last edited by charliemccraney on February 20, 2018, 9:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: February 20, 2018, 9:06 pm 
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I rebuilt my doors on my last truck
I had them off the truck to do it (layed on a table)
Everything comes out & goes in like a jigsaw puzzle
Plus the weatherstripping
After doing them....
I don't think I would attempt to do a door fastened To the cab

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[b]'' I think what scares me the most about you guys is that I understand you '' ..... KID
'' lookin good, a little paint adds at least 100hp!'' ....... COOTER
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PostPosted: February 20, 2018, 10:34 pm 
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glass will come out through the access holes in the doors, just as if its in the truck

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PostPosted: February 21, 2018, 12:17 pm 
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Probably need to replace the regulator,sounds like the teeth are worn and binding up.


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PostPosted: February 22, 2018, 10:07 am 
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The teeth look good. I think it's just the wobble in the shaft that causes it to nearly lock up in one direction yet be ok in the other. I have a replacement on the way.

I don't see how the window comes out without removing a lot more than is outlined in the shop manual. I don't need to get it out it so I won't worry about that at this time.

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Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.


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PostPosted: February 24, 2018, 1:42 pm 
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Slick 4x4 did a good write up on how to take the whole thing apart.

Dan

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For every person with a spark of genius, there are a hundred with ignition trouble

My '63 short wrongbed

"The Iron Rhino"
300 I6, 3 spd manual, DS II/ HEI ignition.

Stuff I added to Hints and tricks

-300-6 choke tube repair
-duraspark II/ HEI
-Horn ring contact tube repair
-turn signal indicator fix




Mikhail Kalashnikov and Nikola Tesla are the guys i think of when i build things.

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PostPosted: February 24, 2018, 3:37 pm 
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Got a link?
I didn't find anything that helped when I searched.

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Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.


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PostPosted: February 25, 2018, 12:19 am 
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It wasn't me ...... this is what you want

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=26739

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.
[b]'' I think what scares me the most about you guys is that I understand you '' ..... KID
'' lookin good, a little paint adds at least 100hp!'' ....... COOTER
'' well an old guy can dream cant he? ''............ICEMAN
''I would donate organs before selling my slick''........ HOOFBEAT RACER


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PostPosted: February 25, 2018, 12:48 pm 
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Location: Las Cruces, NM
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No wonder I couldn't find it...

Dan

_________________
For every person with a spark of genius, there are a hundred with ignition trouble

My '63 short wrongbed

"The Iron Rhino"
300 I6, 3 spd manual, DS II/ HEI ignition.

Stuff I added to Hints and tricks

-300-6 choke tube repair
-duraspark II/ HEI
-Horn ring contact tube repair
-turn signal indicator fix




Mikhail Kalashnikov and Nikola Tesla are the guys i think of when i build things.

Image


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PostPosted: February 26, 2018, 4:16 pm 
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Ok, it looks like the division bar needs to be totally loose in order to make room to remove the glass. The shop manual doesn't say anything about that.

My car broke down so I had to put the window back together. It's actually working pretty nicely after the wd40 worked in for a few days. I'm sure it won't last, though.

_________________
Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.


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