Three on the tree repair?

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willy3486
Posts: 817
Joined: July 11, 2006, 10:31 am
Location: Smithville TN

Post by willy3486 »

I have done it before on mine when it was my only driver. My opinion is is to replace the tube in it at the same time as the collar. Cost a little more but you don't have to worry about old parts causing wear on new ones. You can even get a diagram of how it fits from one of the sales catalogs like lmc and carpenters. The way I remember is this, and others who have done it chime in because its been a while since I have done it. You take the steering wheel off and out of the way,the collar that holds the shifter and then the tube. When I reworked it this last time I took it all out but you may not have to do that. I think its something that can be done on a Sat afternoon. Other things to check at that time are the cab supports. They can drop down and cause the shifter to not work properly. I could barely shift mine before I started reworking it. the cab supports rusted out and let it drop enought to make it hard to shift. I rebuilt the supports and just took the shifter apart and regreased it when I put it back. worked like a new one. And one last thing to check is the steering doughnut ,the piece fitting from the column to the steering box. If its loose or worn it can get you killed. I wound up in a ditch due to mine once. You can get a rebuild kit for one in most parts stores. I think mine was labeled for a new one or a dodge but I matched it up.
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Comet
Posts: 775
Joined: July 5, 2006, 10:03 pm
Location: Charleston, SC

Post by Comet »

Willy after the steering wheel, don't you need to take the shift lever off before the collar? I think Mac's also sells the collar and bushing set.
My Slick is rustier than your Slick! :D
MadMaxetc
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Joined: July 10, 2006, 12:00 pm
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Post by MadMaxetc »

does anyone make ne bushings/bearings for them?

I would check the bushings on the shift arms, and re-adjust the likage on the tranny.
Dan
Project: '63 F-100 LWB / 460 / C6 / 2x4
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MadMaxetc
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Joined: July 10, 2006, 12:00 pm
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Post by MadMaxetc »

what engine is this going behind? The T-5's are not all that strong 350-400 hp MAX (so I have been told) I have a 300 that I use to go to and from work that I want to put a T-5 (or any 5 speed) into.
Dan
Project: '63 F-100 LWB / 460 / C6 / 2x4
My Build Thread
willy3486
Posts: 817
Joined: July 11, 2006, 10:31 am
Location: Smithville TN

Post by willy3486 »

Yep, I think you do have to pull the shifter also. The last time I rebuilt one I think I replaced the collar ,tube and bearings. When I redid it for this rebuild I just took it apart,cleaned and relubricated it.
Obsa
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Joined: July 19, 2006, 4:33 pm
Location: Northwest Georgia
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Post by Obsa »

ON my 66 I replaced the collar and the shift tube. Fairly easy just pull the wheel and all parts come out from inside the cab. My only problem was the collar was too tight to fit over the shift tube had to hone it out to fit. Once again it was a case of poorly toleranced parts from overseas. If I had bought from one the better(more expensive) companies I dont think I would have had the problem. I someday will learn that money saved on cheap parts usually costs three times the time spent on labor.
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