66 F250 project

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bruceandersson
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by bruceandersson »

I think the larger bolt is a typical fender bolt. The smaller ones might have been used around the grill/valence. The fender bolts are 5/16 and some of the valence bolts are 1/4.
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MN66
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by MN66 »

I think the larger bolt is a typical fender bolt. The smaller ones might have been used around the grill/valence. The fender bolts are 5/16 and some of the valence bolts are 1/4.
Hey Bruce,
The fender bolts are different - they have a much smaller flange than this one. I believe there are only two of this particular style, so thought they might be recognizable for a particular application. Some searching indicated it might be for ends of the upper valance.

Thanks,
Corey
1966 F250 LWB
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MN66
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by MN66 »

Sorry for the misdirection on the bolt with the serrated washer. I was assuming it was from under the hood because that's what is mostly torn down.

I found these as I was working tonight. That makes more sense, but now I need to find the 4 missing bolts for my driver's side door. Not overly concerned, I still have the donor truck bolts to misplace.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bzgyh ... UZKUldweGM

I forgot to take pictures of my column installed and my new Grant steering wheel. To be honest, it looks kinda silly with the tiny 14" wheel on it. I'll post some pics later so y'all can weigh in.

Regards,
Corey
1966 F250 LWB
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MN66
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by MN66 »

I swapped the steering column bracket from my 66 std column to my 78 tilt column this weekend. I was planing to use the original bracket from the 78, but noticed when I mounted it up to measure for spacers that the slots on the newer column were slightly wider than the original, making the bolts sit at a bit of an angle.

Ready to install the column and steering wheel after the paint drys a bit.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bzgyh ... 29ZdG5nMnM

I've got another days worth of patching on my radiator support. I had hoped that my welding skills would have improved by now.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bzgyh ... WFYMUNEdjA

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bzgyh ... 2ZkbU1DbHM

Regards,
Corey
1966 F250 LWB
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MN66
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by MN66 »

I haven't updated my build thread in a while. For the first time a few weeks ago, I felt completely overwhelmed by the amount of work I have left to do in order to have a "finished" truck.

My new goal is to be driving it by spring. I've resigned myself to the reality that it might be a few years before I get my truck painted. As soon as it's mechanically sound, I want to drive it and enjoy it. I won't worry about having white doors and a green tailgate on my blue truck.

Today I mocked up my hydroboost system and I need to decide if I want to shorten the push rod or use spacers between the mounting plate and the firewall. The rod is already pretty short, so I don't think I have enough length to add a threaded coupler. If anyone had done one of these, let me know how you solved this.

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I'm also trying to decide if I should mount my proportioning valve underneath my master cylinder, or make a bracket to mount on my power steering gear. Any thoughts on which is preferred?

I finally got my shift lever for my newer NP435 shift tower, which has a switch for backup lights. The new shift lever has a different bend than my original. It seems to angle toward the driver's position and be a bit lower than the old one. Hopefully it won't interfere with the bench seat, but I don't think I'll mind having it a bit closer.

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I also made some new spacers for my saginaw power steering pump and I think the belt aligns pretty well now. The original spacers that came with the Borgeson mounting bracket were intended to use the second crank pulley groove, but since I have a two groove alternator pulley, I needed to use the 3rd groove on the crank.
F250/
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I was able to clock my 3G alternator so that the electrical connections are located towards the firewall now. I still have some grinding to do on the back of the alternator before it will clear the heads. If I can't get enough clearance to use the short tension adjustment arm, I'll swing the alternator to the low position and find one of the longer tensioning arms. Does anyone here have one to sell?

Regards,
Corey
Last edited by MN66 on March 11, 2017, 9:57 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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FarmMotorSports
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by FarmMotorSports »

I used complete a hydroboost system from a E450.
The fire wall bracket spaces the booster away from the peddle.
61 F250 Unibody
5.9 Ford Diesel / Allison
Disk brake straight axle
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MN66
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by MN66 »

FarmMotorSports wrote:I used complete a hydroboost system from a E450.
The fire wall bracket spaces the booster away from the peddle.
Thanks - does the e450 booster have a longer rod? I've seen some boosters with a longer rod (4-5") and maybe 2" spacer off the firewall.

I'll call around to some of the local yards to see if I can find an e450 bracket.

Thanks,
Corey
1966 F250 LWB
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FarmMotorSports
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by FarmMotorSports »

The E450 bracket I had tipped the booster up at a 25 or 30 degree angle... I sliced a pie cut in the angle, bent most of the up angle out of it, and welded inside and out... while researching hydroboost units, rockcraller and 4x4 boards seemed to have the most info. Most make their own brackets to fit their unique application.

There is a gentleman on eBay that sells hydroboost kits for 4X4 /rock craller use, he supposed to have a bracket for 60's fords... very knowledgeable on hydro boosters what fits with what, how to modify any part of them, change peddle feel, etc.

Sterlingworth16 is his ID... don't know him personally, asked him many questions. He gave straight answers, said his "60'S FORD kit" requires drilling the arm for a new shoulder bolt he provides.

As for the rod, my booster had a ball socket pivot with a captive rod. Rod was not adjustable but lined up nicely.... dumb luck after modding the bracket, or did I plan it that way?

I don't remember all the details... I've been to a Slick stock since I installed mine...
And I HAVE NOT ran my system yet, it was used free to me parts and I'm still mid build. My pedal feel may be off, to hard or to sensitive.


If all else fails, Check with dismantles on what brackets are available and see what fits best.
61 F250 Unibody
5.9 Ford Diesel / Allison
Disk brake straight axle
bruceandersson
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by bruceandersson »

Depending on how much you'd have to take off the rod, you could also move the hole in your pedal arm. I've done that one the two twin ibeam trucks I converted to disk. I welded up the old hole and drilled a new one back about 1/4".
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MN66
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by MN66 »

Thanks guys - my truck had manual brakes, so I'd like to change the pedal ratio by moving the hole lower on the pedal. I've seen some angled firewall spacers that put the hydroboost at a 10 degrees upward angle in the engine bay. I might need to bribe one of my co-workers to machine one of these for me.

Image

I've also seen threaded rod end adapters that would let me locate the pedal arm hole slightly lower.

http://www.tallonhydraulics.com/store/images/109b.png


Corey
1966 F250 LWB
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therealjoeshmoe
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by therealjoeshmoe »

i actually just got a 1/2" thick piece of plate steel and stuck 4 pieces of file sand paper with a sticky back on the the pice of plate. i just ran my head back and forth till it was flat again.. took a while but all it cost me was 8 pieces of fileboard sand paper... i started with 180 then went to 220 worked great no leaks and mine was just as bad if not worse than yours.. like i said it takes a while but its cheap fix and you can do it yourself
Why fart and waste it when you can burp and taste it!

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MN66
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by MN66 »

I haven't posted on my build thread since early December - I have gotten a few things done since that time.

I dropped the engine in place temporarily to check some clearances and to see if my headers would work.

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My first attempt at landed it had the 390 sitting crooked. I had to move the passenger side engine perch to the back set of holes, not sure why I didn't catch that earlier.

Once I had it sitting on the perches, I tried to get the passenger side header slid in place from underneath. I've found these older "Mr. Gasket" 2 piece headers that are suppose to let you install them without removing the starter, but there's no way these are going to work. They must be for a car application, good thing I didn't pay much for them. I'll be ordering the Sanderson FF427s soon.

I also need to rework my brake lines to the proportioning valve. I was a little rushed when I was working on them and really don't like the result. They interfere with the inner fenders when I test fitted them today, not much choice but to redo them.

Image

What advice can you give me for getting my steering wheel centered when my wheels are pointing straight ahead? Can I pull the pitman arm from the saginaw steering gear and adjust it that way, or does that splined shaft only fit to pitman arm one way?

I didn't take any photos, but I finally got my radiator support patching finished up today.

Next on the agenda is to get my hydroboost and brake lines plumbed, then I can drop my engine and trans in place.

I'm picking up some fenders locally tomorrow, I hope the photos on CL are an accurate representation. The guy also has a rubber floormat that he bought for his son's 62 truck but the mat was for 65/66 with 4 spd, lucky for me.

I should be making more progress these next few weeks and will post more updates as I have them.

Regards,
Corey
1966 F250 LWB
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MN66
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by MN66 »

I spent more time at the the auto parts stores today than I did working on the truck. My goal was to get my brake lines made up and get my brakes bled. By the 3rd parts store, I had the fittings and brake line that I needed. Thankful that my buddy John can flare and bend brake lines like a monster. Now I need to go back and redo the mess I made of the two front brake lines going the proportioning valve.

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It was kinda exciting to get the brakes working again, gives me hope that I'll be driving it this spring/early summer.

Corey
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MN66
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by MN66 »

I ticked a few more small items off the list last night.

I got seam sealer (3M Controlled Flow 08329) on my firewall - I really like how it flowed.

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I replaced the lock set in my ignition so now I've got matching keys and can lock my doors.

I patched the hole that the previous owner cut in my otherwise unused rubber floor covering.

I replaced the felt washers on my z-bar clutch release brackets - should these be greased?

My buddy made a new push rod to brake pedal adapter so I can use a later model brake light switch instead of the pressure switch on my hydroboost setup.

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I pulled the trigger on some new headers. I went with the ceramic coated Hedman Elite Headers 89810. Has anyone used them on a twin i-beam truck?

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MN66
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by MN66 »

Working on my interior light and noticed I had a roll of aluminum tape on the wall. I'm sure I probably saw this trick here, but it turned out pretty well. Should help with my tail light buckets as well.

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MN66
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by MN66 »

390 is in place, now I'm just waiting for my replacement headers to arrive.

Should I wait until I have the trans and front clip installed before torquing the front suspension parts, or is the engine weight sufficient to take care of any binding problems?

Image

Thanks,
Corey
1966 F250 LWB
bruceandersson
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by bruceandersson »

Looks like you have the original suspension which wont be altered by weight or position. Go ahead and tighten things up. Not much adjustment in twin Ibeams without bending the beams.
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MN66
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by MN66 »

I got my NP435 installed today - it wasn't much fun trying it alone, and only a little more fun with 2 people.

Image

The clutch action feels much lighter than my original.

I also stripped out the last bolt holding my clutch fan to the water pump flange. Glad I kept a spare water pump.
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MN66
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by MN66 »

Long overdue update -
I started my 390 last night for the first time in order to do the cam break-in. No leaks so far, hoping it stays that way.

It sounded sweet even with a mild cam and running with the original exhaust manifolds to a single pipe. Can't wait to hear it with headers and dual exhaust! It started easily after sorting out the carb float level.

I'll post a video link tonight when I get home.

Regards,
Corey
1966 F250 LWB
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