66 F250 project

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MN66
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66 F250 project

Post by MN66 »

I figured I might as well start a project thread so I have one place to point my friends see what I'm up to.

A little history on the truck. My brother found it for me in November 2014 after I mentioned to him that I was interested in finding an old pickup to restore. Preferably, the truck would be about my own age, which would have meant a '64 vintage.

He found this blue 66 F250 in a barn on the farm where he deer hunts, just north of the small town where I grew up. It had 65,000 miles on the odometer, and current owner had inherited it from his brother when he died several years ago, well into his 90's. I doubt that the truck had ever been more than 25 miles away from home it's whole life, it was a farm truck with an NP435 and 4.10 rear end. It appears that the homemade front bumper doubled as a tow bar to pull behind the tractor or grain truck from field to field.

Here are the original shots my brother sent to me and made me fall in love with this truck.

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The truck was pretty complete, although it was missing the knob for the glove compartment it had been replaced with a bolt secured with two nuts. It also smelled pretty "mousy" and they had obviously made themselves comfortable in there for decades. All of the rust on the lower door pillars was caused by urine soaked cushion material that they used to build their nests.

I spent last winter getting the truck roadworthy, and with my buddy's help, we replaced the brakes, got rid of the split rims and scrounged some decent used tires. We upgraded to a dual MC and my friend rebuilt the autolite 2100 carb. I replaced the plugs and wires and swapped the points and coil for a pertronix 3 setup. The gas tank was pretty rusty inside so I found a nice one on CL.

I drove the heck out of the truck this past summer and put on over 3000 miles. I had a blast, driving it to work occasionally, and bird hunting in the fall. I was sad to put her away when winter came, but I knew I wanted to upgrade the front end with power disc brakes, power steering and an (anti) swaybar.

I found a 78 F250 donor for $250 that had everything I wanted, with the added bonus of a tilt steering column and a D61 rearend with 3.08 gears to make it a little more freeway friendly.

I've been rebuilding the 78 front suspension parts, including new kingpins, for the past few months and have every painted and ready to go into my truck. I just couldn't bolt those shiny new suspension parts to the rusty, greasy frame, so...

Fast forward to the past few weeks.

I made the decision to pull the front clip so that I could have access to the engine bay for cleaning. Then I realized that if I wanted to do it right, that the engine would need to be pulled so I could clean and paint it along with front part of the frame.

Last week I removed the clip and today we got the motor pulled and the trans and bellhousing removed. I'm open to suggestions on how best to remove all the grease and grime from the engine and trans.

While I was busy cleaning, my friend John was cutting rust out of the passenger side lower cowl, kick panel and floor.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzgyheXmyIFLbWxHNVJKU3JYUDg/view?usp=sharing


It's a little uglier on the driver's side - I need to order the lower hinge pillar from Tom at Flashback.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzgyhe ... sp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzgyhe ... sp=sharing

I need to replace the lower rear of both fenders, as well as the inside support. I know the sheet metal parts for the lower fenders are available, can anyone tell me if it includes the inner support shown here?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzgyhe ... sp=sharing

Well - I better quit before I put people to sleep.

More to come!

Regards,
Corey
1966 F250 LWB
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ThinLizzy13
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by ThinLizzy13 »

That's a nice looking truck! I like the upgrades you've done, sounds like a lot of progress. It sounds like a good driver.
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bruceandersson
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by bruceandersson »

I hate meeses to pieces! Its amazing how destructive they can be.
jamesdfo
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by jamesdfo »

Corey: Looks like you're getting into the "Might as Wells", that can be dangerous territory:)

As for the fenders, I have seen lower patch panels for the outer skin of the fender, but do not recall seeing a repair panel for the inner structure running vertically up at the back of the fender?
If anyone does actually make that inner brace, someone will chime in.
But you should be able to fab something up, google hammerforming, it will show you how to make a hammerform (hardwood will do) and shape the part.....


Cheers!
James
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MN66
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by MN66 »

Thanks guys - you may be right James, there are so many directions to run with this thing. I'm glad I have a couple people advising me to not get too far ahead of myself, tho' I'm probably already there.

I've looked at hammer forming on the allmetalshaping.com website. Lot's of good information there that should help with the inner fender support.

I've also got a 66 parts truck, but it's got the same rust on the lower part of the fender support. I'm thinking I can use the upper part of the support and reshape it to fit the lower end.

I also need to fabricate the front portion of my cab corners - I haven't seen them reproduced anywhere, so hammer forming will likely be the answer. I've got a lot more experience in woodworking than working with cars or metal shaping, so making the forms should be the easy part.

Regards,
Corey
1966 F250 LWB
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MN66
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by MN66 »

Enjoyed a rare 55° February day in Minnesota, so I wheeled my truck outside and blasted the front of the frame and firewall.

I plan to use KBS Coatings Rust Seal product on my frame and firewall. Has anyone had experience with it? It comes recommended from a friend who's dad has a pretty extensive car collection, and that's all they use on frame restorations.

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I also got the exhaust manifolds removed and I think I can weld a nut to the end of the one bolt I broke off in the head a few months ago. Is it strange that the lower exhaust manifold bolts were not very tight, and yet I didn't have any exhaust leakage?

I'm hoping that the oil leak is from the rear of the intake rather than from the main seal. I plan to replace the cast iron intake with an aluminum Holley Street Dominator that I got cheap.

Regards,
Corey
1966 F250 LWB
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ThinLizzy13
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by ThinLizzy13 »

Hope you aren't gunna mig weld that nut :wink:
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by jkimbrel65 »

Mig welding a nut to a broken exhaust bolt works well. Have done many times

Mike
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was the worst 10 minutes of my life
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MN66
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by MN66 »

Was planning to mig weld it Brandon, is there a reason that's a bad idea? As Mike said, I've read many times where people have done it successfully. Or are you just teasing me about my poor welding skilz?
1966 F250 LWB
bruceandersson
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by bruceandersson »

I have used the rust seal products for a while now. They are supposed to be an upgrade tot he Por products in that they contain a UV block and do not require an overcoat. I've been happy with the results. Two things wear gloves, it will not come off if it dries on your skin. Buy more smaller cans. I know this is more expensive, but once open it does not store well.
grump
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by grump »

When you are done using any kind of rust sealer blow gas from your mig welder or even a propane gas from a torch into the can and then quickly cover the top with saran wrap and then the lid. The rust sealer will still get hard but it will take much longer before it does and this stuff is too expensive to waste. The oxygen in the air is what makes it go hard so once it is opened if you put the lid back on metal to metal you won't be able to get it back off with out destroying it. Been there.
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MN66
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by MN66 »

Bruce - I guess I'll find out soon. I plan to buy some smaller containers of the KBS Rust Seal tomorrow. I was under the impression that Rust Seal still needed a topcoat to protect from UV exposure. They have something called Blacktop for that purpose, if I recall correctly. Did you spray it or brush it on? If sprayed, did you need to use their thinner, or use as is? If it's that hard to clean up, I'm wondering if I'll be able to get my sprayer clean?

Grump - good advice on blowing some inert gas into the can. I've heard people say that it doesn't hurt to put two layers of plastic wrap between the cover and the can so it can be reopened later.

I finally ordered a lower door hinge pillar and power steering firewall bracket today from Tom at Flashback F100s. I'll be cutting and welding some replacement lower cowl/pillar pieces next week, and will post some pictures of the progress, unless I'm too embarrassed by the results.


Regards,
Corey



BTW - condolences to the members here at the loss of your good friend BanjoPicker. I didn't know John, but have read many of his posts and I was encouraged when I saw a reference in one post to Matthew 16:25-26 which says:

25 For whoever wants to save their life will lose it, but whoever loses their life for me will find it. 26 What good will it be for someone to gain the whole world, yet forfeit their soul? Or what can anyone give in exchange for their soul?

I think John picked a good verse to share with his friends here. I'm not worried about where he is, just wish I would have met him before he went there.
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ThinLizzy13
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by ThinLizzy13 »

MN66 wrote:Or are you just teasing me about my poor welding skilz?


I was just attempting a poorly crafted joke lol.
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by bruceandersson »

I have always brushed it on. It flows out pretty well, but I have used it on frames, undersides and areas where I am not after a perfect finish. If you get it soon enough, it does come clean with lacquer thinner. I would not run it through my finish gun regardless. The over-spray would stay where it lands.
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by MN66 »

Spent the day scraping and brushing grease and grime off my engine and trans. I used Gunk HD Gel and it seemed to work pretty well.

I forgot to take a picture of the engine, but thought the factory markings on the trans were interesting. I'm sure they haven't been seen since before the Vietnam war.

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Here's a before picture of my 352. I'll post a cleaned up version next time I get a chance to work on it.

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Regards,
Corey
1966 F250 LWB
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MN66
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by MN66 »

I'm so spitting mad at myself for what I did on Saturday that it took me until today before I could even write about it.

I had one broken exhaust bolt stuck in the head of my 352. I tried earlier last week to mig weld a nut to the broken stud, but I somehow couldn't get enough penetration with the 120V Lincoln that I was using, the weld would break right off. I thought I would wait to get the advice of a more experienced welder. He recommended that we try a the stick welder to get better penetration. We twisted off the first few nuts that we tried, and then I suggested that we tack a washer in place first and then a nut on top of that. Well, we got that welded up and let it cool off a bit. Then I started tapping the wrench to see if it would break loose. No movement, so I tried loosening it until the next thing I know, the ear breaks off the casting. :oops:

Here's the sad result:
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There is a local guy who welds a ton of cast iron out here in farm country, so I'm bringing it to see what he thinks.

I would really prefer to use these heads, given the fact that I know they were working well on my truck. My other option is to swap in the 390 heads (of unknown condition) that came from a 69 F250. Either way, I will be changing out valve springs to match whatever RV cam I decide to use.

On a positive note, the cylinders and piston tops in my 352 don't look too bad, and there was only a very thin layer of 'sludge' in the bottom of the pan when I took it off.

You could still see some crosshatching on the cylinder walls, which I thought was interesting.

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Does anyone know what the number markings mean below the intake? There are numbers on both sides, but one side is more faint.

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Thanks all - I feel a little better now.

Corey
1966 F250 LWB
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MN66
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by MN66 »

I think I found the answer on the numbers in the intake valley. Apparently they were precise bore diameter markings. They graded or matched the pistons/ring sizes according to the cylinder diameter. The pistons had a corresponding number painted on the top in yellow to make it easy for QC to check during assembly.
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by MN66 »

I got my head back from the welder - looks like it might work.

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I spent a little time cleaning the head and I'm a little concerned with a couple of the exhaust port surfaces. It looks like they had some blow through, but I never heard any exhaust leaks. Will these seal up with the "right stuff" so to speak?

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A couple exhaust valves have heavy deposits, most of them look clean. Am I best off replacing all of them, just the bad ones, or leave it alone?

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Appreciate any advice you can share.

Corey
1966 F250 LWB
bruceandersson
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by bruceandersson »

You might want to consider having the exhaust manifold surfaces on both the heads and the manifolds leveled at a machine shop. I don't know what this would cost. It doesn't take long they use a huge belt sander to get them even and in line. The crud can cause detonation and should be removed but its the seats and valve edges at the seats that are important for sealing. As long as you have them off, why not have a valve job done? As long as your guides are good, it should not be too costly.
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MN66
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Re: 66 F250 project

Post by MN66 »

Thanks Bruce, I talked to a machinist earlier this week about some other work, I'll call him and see what the head work would cost.

I'm hoping to have a spare 390 rebuilt eventually to replace my 352, so if the heads from a 69' truck 390 flow better than my 352, does it make more sense to get them reworked, rather than my 352 heads? I guess I'll pull the 390 heads off and see what condition they're in, comparatively.

Regards,
Corey

btw -
Is it sick that I'd prefer to stay home from a Florida vacation this week to work on my truck, or is that a normal thing? My wife wants to know.
1966 F250 LWB
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