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PostPosted: September 2, 2016, 8:05 pm 
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I've started disassembly of the truck, pulled the bed off. There was a combination of wood blocks and square tubing used as spacers between the bed and frame. It appears the rear cab mounting points have extra spacers in place to raise it to match the bed. The bed spacers were in place because two places on the frame flare upward, evidently for strenght., and prevent the bed from sitting directly on the frame. Also noticed that the frame appears to have been spliced together just behind the cab, welded and bolted.

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PostPosted: September 2, 2016, 8:34 pm 
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PostPosted: September 2, 2016, 8:43 pm 
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Previous owner added air bags, I'm guessing for rear tire clearance at the wheel wells, aftermarket wheels look like they sit out further than factory steel wheels would. I'm going to pull the air bags off.

Here is a picture of a straight six engine, advertised as an original 65 ford engine. Got there and number on the block indicated a 73 block. Had 3 speed manual transmission, one groove pully, so I figured probably a 240.

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PostPosted: September 2, 2016, 9:00 pm 
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Went ahead and removed transmission , clutch/pressure plate, flywheel, fuel pump, pulled the plugs and removed the valve cover.

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Then pulled the head and checked the stroke. Surprise! Its a 300 Big Six, which is what I was hoping for. Cleaned the top of a couple of pistons and found 40 stamped into the top. A set of inside micrometers confirmed its been bored .040" over standard. Will finish pulling it down and have the block cleaned, check bearings etc... Still considering build options, may go with an offy dual port intake and small 4 barrel, late model efi cast iron exhaust manifolds, but unsure on camshaft selection and rockers. I have another np435 transmission married to the np205 transfer case with dual range 4x4, and considering a gear vendors auxillary unit so I can split gears and have an overdrive. Hoping to keep the revs lower, and use the gears to take advantage of the torque.

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PostPosted: September 2, 2016, 10:53 pm 
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Sounds like a 2wd rear frame section was spliced in. It may have al ater rear end and rear frame. Might check the frame width at rear axle.
Paul

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PostPosted: September 3, 2016, 10:28 am 
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Toyz, the previous owner indicated 79 f150 frame. I measured the spring perches on the 9" axle in the truck and they match a Dana 44 rear axle I have that came from a 77 ford truck. Made a crude measurement from center of front axle to center of rear and its right at 131". I've seen posts about frame swaps and I think the information said rear axles were wider on 73-79 trucks and frames narrower requiring fabricated mounting points. Is there a difference in the 73-79 4x4 and 2wd frames at the rear section?

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PostPosted: September 3, 2016, 10:49 am 
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4x4 frame still 34 wide at back, 2 wheel drive went to 37 wide in 1973. probably shorten from 133"



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PostPosted: September 17, 2016, 3:21 pm 
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After tending to other priorities, I have been back to work on the 65. Measured frame width at rear axle is 37-1/2". Must be the 2wd splice that Toyz mentions above and shortened as long cabin John indicates. I removed the exhaust up to the headers, the Air Lift rear airbags, compressor, and control circuit, along with the will dual air horns, and the customized side view mirrors. I dont intend on installing any of these items back on the truck when I reassemble it. Pics below
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PostPosted: September 17, 2016, 6:57 pm 
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I like your mirror setup. I did something similar on my 66.... Those tabs can be made to hold about anything...


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PostPosted: September 18, 2016, 7:06 pm 
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Foodstick, I will try and get all the parts I'm not going to reuse over to the classifieds, including those mirrors. I may regret getting rid of them, but I like the round chrome mirrors. Here are a few photos below. I removed the seat. Its a newer ford seat I believe, but it sits higher and fits my legs better than the original seats do, I Dont feel like my knees are under my chin with this seat. Plans are to recover, but have not decided yet on material. I found a place that sells original type vinyl and insert material, I'm not sure of the durability of the insert covering though. Also here are some pictures of the cab floor with the rubber mat removed and the rubber boots from around the shifters. I have water coming in behind the dash. I will try cleaning the cowl drain areas and hope that if there is a hole its small and easily plugged to keep the water out. I visited a fellow in NC today and picked up a complete Emergency Flasher setup, and a two speed wiper motor, harness, and switch. Got all three horns he had, we could not get any of the three to sound off. He had luck before taking one apart and cleaning it. Previous owner of my truck had cut the horn wires, removed the horn(s) along with the horn relay, so I know I've got some work ahead tracing circuits.

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PostPosted: October 3, 2016, 8:00 pm 
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I've been busy with multiple irons in the fire. Was able to pull the front bumper, after drilling and chistling the heads off the rusted bumper bolts. At some point the frame horns took a little bump and were out of alignment, seems like someone adjusted the holes in the horns and bumper to get the bumper mounted. They also hammered the bottom of the bumper to flare it out to clear the bottom of the frame horns. I used a wire wheel with the air compressor to get the loose rust off the back of the bumper, then sprayed on some phosphoric acid to treat the bare metal. This photo is the bumper as it was removed from the truck.
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I was also able to remove the aluminum grill. Here is a photo as the truck sits now.
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I was also able to drain and remove the radiator in preparation to hopefully remove the whole front end in one piece.

And I was able to locate and purchase a 0-40 x100 rpm tachometer and a vacuum gauge. Below is a photo of them sitting loosely in the metal instrument cluster. I have been trying to get all the old Wimbledon white paint off this dash insert, and its a job in itself. I might get someone with a blast cabinet to knock the remainder of the paint off and give it a little texture for new paint to adhere.
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PostPosted: October 4, 2016, 7:46 am 
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Where did you find the tach, and/or what are the details on it? I really like that, and want to get rid of the aftermarket column mount on mine from the PO.


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PostPosted: October 4, 2016, 9:43 am 
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Chris, the tach and the vacuum gage look real nice in the dash panel. Was the vacuum gage NOS or a clean used one?

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PostPosted: October 4, 2016, 5:56 pm 
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Jhorst14, there is either a part number or engineering number on the back of the tachometer, C3TF17360A2. I purchased it from Michelle, here on the Slick60's website. As I understand it, these tachs were in bigger ford trucks F600's and up with a different V8 engine that had a distributor with a mechanical tach drive unit. So this tach is powered by a cable turning like a speedometer cable. I have had difficulty finding a tach drive distributor for the 300 inline six engine I'm putting back in the truck, but I think I've found another solution, an alternator with a mechanical tach drive. With the low revving six cylinder, the tach is perfect. Will keep everyone up to date with the details of the tach drive alternator.

Michelle, the Vacuum gauge was in a ford parts box with Service Parts written on it. However, it had someone's name written on the box. It had some dust on it that looked like cardboard dust. There was white over spray paint on the sides of the gauge and and old scratch through that paint. At first I thought it was NOS, but I'd guess a clean used part. Thanks again for your help locating it.

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PostPosted: October 4, 2016, 6:10 pm 
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Jhorst14, I forgot to mention, Toms Bronco has a 3-3/8" electric tach 0-8 rpm x 1000 that will work with a 6 or 8 cylinder. I've already cut my dash insert out to fit these larger gauges, approximately 4", but you could certainly fit that tach in the dash with a smaller hole saw. Didn't check their price, but the face, graphics, needle all match the round speedo in these truck very well.

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PostPosted: October 15, 2016, 2:27 pm 
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This morning my wife helped me lift the front end sheet metal off the frame all in one piece, fenders, inner fenders, radiator support.

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Then it took a while to get engine mount bolts and bell housing bolts loose, get all wiring labeled and pulled loose, off with the vacuum line to the brake booster, choke and accelerator cables removed from carb, fuel line loose, and get a chain bolted to the engine.
Then I separated the small 2 speed transfer case from the adapter housing and removed the shifter from np435 transmission. Next was jack under transmission and separate the engine. A little tug on the chain fall, pry a little, move jack, then the separated.

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I decided to leave the power steering pump and lines connected to the steering box for now. Next I need to push this outside and pressure wash and degrease the front end and frame. I need to do some frame repair where there is some rust. I think I can get it done and leave the cab on the frame. Contemplating putting new rubber mounts everywhere, maybe I can loosen the front two enough to get one at a time out, then replace the rear and not have the cab shift from where it sits now. The other option is to completely remove the cab, and this will give me the best access for rust repair and fitting the new drive train back into the truck. Easier to get the transmission and transfer case in from the top for sure. Below is a picture of the new and old. The old np435 is in the foreground with the transfer case removed. Newer unit from a 78 F150 is in the background, this unit is a little longer but has the desirable np205 hi and lo four wheel drive gear driven transfer case.

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PostPosted: October 16, 2016, 7:32 pm 
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Small update for today. Parking brake disconnected, fuel line disconnected, siphoned remaining gas from tank, removed tank, found fender bolt covers for kick panels, and one door hinge cover(thanks MN66) behind the tank in lowest part of the rear cab corners, then removed the cab mounting bolts. Still trying to figure the best way to lift cab from frame, want to leave glass and doors on.

I picked up a used blast cabinet full of media last Sunday from a Craigslist ad for $75. Used it to finish removing paint from metal dash insert. Then primed and painted it with a rattle can of Duplicolor Wimbledon White. I need better lights in the garage! Photo suffers, but the best I can do for now.

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PostPosted: October 16, 2016, 7:58 pm 
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nice score on the media cabinet. The gauge panel looks great now!

For the cab... do you have a cherry picker? I was going to use eye bolts in the mounting holes. Use a few pieces of chain (or cargo straps) and then lift... I know it is going to be pretty damn heavy with the doors on. Those are hefty.

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PostPosted: October 17, 2016, 9:58 am 
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9Fingers wrote:
Jhorst14,
Michelle, the Vacuum gauge was in a ford parts box with Service Parts written on it. However, it had someone's name written on the box. It had some dust on it that looked like cardboard dust. There was white over spray paint on the sides of the gauge and and old scratch through that paint. At first I thought it was NOS, but I'd guess a clean used part. Thanks again for your help locating it.


Every tach and air pressure and the one vacuum gage that I have seen all had that same white over spray on it. Did you notice the tach I sent you had that white over spray?

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PostPosted: October 17, 2016, 1:33 pm 
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The best way to lift a cab is with at least 4 strong people. No chance of damage from lifting. I have a gantry and chain hoist. I bent the drip rails slightly when I used a nylon strap through the top of the cab. Once painted i had some friend help me put it back into place. You can use straps, but want something to keep it spread to avoid and inward crush with the lift.


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