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 Post subject: Straight Sixin' '63
PostPosted: November 12, 2016, 5:44 pm 
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Location: Conway SC
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I've posted this truck in another thread, but I figured I should start a build thread. It'll help me not to forget what I've been doing :lol:

My uncle gave me this 1963 F-100 SWB unibody. It has a three on the tree and a 223 inline 6. The truck has about 128k and the engine was rebuilt about 6k miles ago. Aside from the wagon wheel rims and radial tires it is in completely stock condition. Single pot brakes, generator, oil cartridge, oil bath air filter, etc;
I drove the truck 900 miles from NY to SC, and it ran beautifully. Before starting the journey I put new tires and a fuel pump on. as for the trip my uncle had the brakes dialed in perfectly; I've never had drum brakes stop so quickly. Despite the corroded points and old plugs the engine ran 65 mph the whole trip and managed 14 mpg to boot with a bed full of slick parts!

Since arriving home I've swapped in new points, plugs, and tuned the engine in. Points are at 35 dwell angle (I wanna move it up a smidge), and I'm pulling 19.5" on my vac gauge. The timing pointer is no longer on the timing gear cover so I tuned it in with my vac gauge.
I've also put in halogen sylvania bulbs. I could see about 15ft with standard bulbs and a generator. The halogens let me see at least 45 ft now :lol:

My plans at the moment are:

1) Sort out the wiring - it's a mess under the dash. My heater blower only has power when the headlights are on; my turn signals work fine until I turn on headlights - then the passenger taillight acts like I'm pressing the brake. It's good stuff.
2) Replace the rest of my ignition components with new parts.
3) Change all fluids out with new and convert oil filter to a spin on type.
4) Research a bit more into converting to an alternator. I have all the parts to do the swap, but I at least wanna wait until the generator craps out. It was recently rebuilt.
5) Figure out how to calculate speedometer cable gear sizes. Mine is about 5mph too slow.
6) Installing at least a dual pot brake reservoir, if not power brakes with a dual pot.
7) Get new mirror inserts (have the original west coast mirror attachments. One mirror is broken, one is dirty)

There's some other miscellaneous things I'd like to do, like a radio and powder coating my stock rims, but they aren't very high on the priority list right now.

Long-term goal is a frame off restoration and possibly some engine upgrades (dual exhaust, different carb, electronic ignition). I don't have the time or space to do something this intensive at this time, but that is the ultimate goal.

Anyway here's some pics!

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Not very rusty underneath and new shocks all around :mrgreen:
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 Post subject: Re: Straight Sixin' '63
PostPosted: November 12, 2016, 6:31 pm 
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Look forward to seeing more!

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 Post subject: Re: Straight Sixin' '63
PostPosted: November 12, 2016, 7:36 pm 
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Looks like a great truck. WOW, looks like a factory in bed spare mount, straight tail gate and supports. I'm subscribed for the build.

That mirror is after market, Ebay, craigs list and swap meet is a good bet for parts. We also have members who part trucks on a regular basis. Take good picks of what ever you need and post a parts wanted... if its just the mirror glass, Ive had good luck with my local household glass shop cutting me a replacement.

You will probably find a bad ground or dirty socket on that light... I've had that problem when I bought my F250.

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 Post subject: Re: Straight Sixin' '63
PostPosted: November 12, 2016, 7:48 pm 
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Cool truck in great shape for where its been it was well taken care of.
Pertronix ignition and a rebuild on the carb will set you back a small amount and greatly increase response and mileage. no need to go high end, pertronix I should run you less than 125 with coil, unless they went thru the roof, don't bother with the II or III models they won't do any better until you upgrade the distributor then you have lots of other options.
Recheck all your grounds at the fire wall,chassis,motor, light sockets and bulbs most a;ll problems often start with corroded connections
John

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 Post subject: Re: Straight Sixin' '63
PostPosted: November 12, 2016, 11:08 pm 
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FarmMotorSports wrote:
Looks like a great truck. WOW, looks like a factory in bed spare mount, straight tail gate and supports. I'm subscribed for the build.

That mirror is after market, Ebay, craigs list and swap meet is a good bet for parts.


I wish it were a factory spare tire mount, but it's just some steel wire holding it in place :lol:
I'll have to look around for replacement mirrors. I thought it was stock because it has definitely been on the truck for a loooooong time.

unibody madness wrote:
Recheck all your grounds at the fire wall,chassis,motor, light sockets and bulbs most a;ll problems often start with corroded connections
John


There is absolutely some corrosion going on. There's also a lot of mismatched/not hooked up wires. It's going to be a full weekend project when I get into sorting that mess out. I may buy a completely new wire harness further down the road...
I'm definitely going to look into Pertronics for this truck. Although with all the trucks I've owned with the load-o-matic setup, I'm finally getting decent at tuning them!

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 Post subject: Re: Straight Sixin' '63
PostPosted: November 13, 2016, 12:18 am 
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To my understanding there is no such thing as a factory mirror for a 61-66 truck.
Accessories were the one of the little incomes a dealer used to help sales and service $$$.
All mirrors were dealer installed, even Ford offerings.

The covered slot in the front of the door is the stock mirror bracket hole. There were a few (3 ???) Ford offered / over the counter mirrors for new trucks. And many dealers sold other brands as well... never leave $ on the table. So those may have came from the dealer on that truck.

So if you like them, USE them... :2cents:

My F250 has had many mirrors on the doors, judging by the holes. The later model (68-72) Ford west coast Jr mirrors on it now, have been on it so long, bolts will twist off if removed...

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 Post subject: Re: Straight Sixin' '63
PostPosted: November 13, 2016, 8:08 am 
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That's pretty cool FMS. I did't know the mirrors back then were more of a dealer thing. I do plan on using these mirrors, I just have to update the glass/mirror part.

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 Post subject: Re: Straight Sixin' '63
PostPosted: November 13, 2016, 10:04 am 
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Brandon,
900 miles.Did you go all blacktop or Interstate....??
Dan

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 Post subject: Re: Straight Sixin' '63
PostPosted: November 13, 2016, 1:10 pm 
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Dan,
Went all interstate except for avoiding the DC area. Hopped on some two lane back roads to avoid that mess 8)

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 Post subject: Re: Straight Sixin' '63
PostPosted: November 14, 2016, 1:51 pm 
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Very cool story and truck. Looking forward to the updates. :burp:


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 Post subject: Re: Straight Sixin' '63
PostPosted: November 14, 2016, 9:53 pm 
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You have a nice truck with lots of potential. Keep the pictures coming.

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 Post subject: Re: Straight Sixin' '63
PostPosted: November 16, 2016, 12:14 pm 
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That's a nice truck. hope to see more updates.
I always liked the little 223 six I had in my 64. It ran great until one day it didn't. :(
I still think they are a good little engine, just hard to justify the cost of a full rebuild for me.
If that were mine I think I fix as needed and drive it!

They come apart fast and go back together slow :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: Straight Sixin' '63
PostPosted: November 17, 2016, 7:55 am 
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bird55 wrote:
They come apart fast and go back together slow :lol:


Aint that the truth!

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 Post subject: Re: Straight Sixin' '63
PostPosted: November 20, 2016, 7:03 am 
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bird55 wrote:
If that were mine I think I fix as needed and drive it!


I think that's what I'm going to do for the next couple years. Despite the 223's wonderful soggy load-o-matic acceleration, it's still fun to drive around. Once I get my immediate list taken care most of the remaining issues will all be cosmetic. The truck is geared perfect for driving down here too. The area I live in is all flat and the speed limit is 45-55 pretty much everywhere :steering:


Truck updates:
Got a shop manual for a 1961 F100 off ebay. Thanks to unibody madness for the heads up. It's helped me quite a bit with the 63...


I started to tackle my rear turn signal issue. My brake lights and turn signals worked fine until I turned on my headlights. Then my drivers side rear light came on as though I was pressing the brakes and the turn signal wouldn't work. I checked all the grounds - they were good. Next I tried switching the the turn signal/stop wire and the lights on wire (yellow and brown wires) to the drivers side rear light. Success! Or so I thought. It worked fine for about 5 mins. Then I lost all power to rear brake/turn signal lights. Then it was back. Then I lost it. etc;

At this point I ended up at the mess under my dash. I found if I wiggled my fusebox at the light switch my rear TS/Brake would come back on. This was not the case for about 1100 miles BEFORE I switched the brown/yellow wires as the rear light :hm: I am fairly certain no one really knows how slick wiring works :lol:

I removed my dash cover and unhooked my light switch from the dash. The source of my troublesome rear lights...

Image

Where the orange w/yellow stripe wire and the brown wire plug in at the bottom of the box is loose. I can wiggle the metal that the fuse is in quite a bit. Not really sure how to go about tightening them.
I found a NOS fusebox, but it is the plastic only. There are no metal connectors in it. I'm thinking either of trying to glue them tight somehow or of maybe by passing the fusebox and wiring in in-line fuses for the heater and the TS/brake lights....

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 Post subject: Re: Straight Sixin' '63
PostPosted: November 23, 2016, 6:14 pm 
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ThinLizzy13 wrote:
I found a NOS fusebox, but it is the plastic only. There are no metal connectors in it. I'm thinking either of trying to glue them tight somehow or of maybe by passing the fusebox and wiring in in-line fuses for the heater and the TS/brake lights....


Well I just realized the metal connectors I thought were missing are on the switch itself :lol:
I may buy a replacement fuse box, or wire in a new one. There's a pretty good write up on Fordification for converting to a newer style one.

Got a bunch of goodies in the mail. New plugs, wires, rotor, dizzy cap, coil, condensers, and NOS Autolite oil filters lol. Ignition parts are all new now. Gunna change the oil and decide what route to take with the fuse box....

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 Post subject: Re: Straight Sixin' '63
PostPosted: November 24, 2016, 11:26 am 
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A good thing to check ad try to keep maintained is the Heat riser valve between the Intake manifold and the exhaust manifold. You could also remove the valve with lots of patience and plug the open holes. But I'm not recommending this only as a last resort.
This can be a very satisfying engine for your use.

FYI, not a biggie, but I noticed in your pics that the gen. wiring harness is running over the water neck area and is stretched. It is supposed to be running under the front motor mount I believe or at least below the water pump as I recall.

I also ran a generator without any issues for the loads the truck requires.

That was a good trip you took and a good test of the truck! Pretty good testament to its reliability.

BTW, What is that bolt head in the middle of the valve cover for? Something added on there at some time.


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 Post subject: Re: Straight Sixin' '63
PostPosted: November 24, 2016, 11:36 am 
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And just to add the carb you have is a super easy rebuild and should make a diff. don't forget the fuel filter. 8)


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 Post subject: Re: Straight Sixin' '63
PostPosted: November 25, 2016, 8:18 pm 
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Made some good progress over turkey day. Fixed my brake light issue by replacing my brake light switch. My turn signals usually work, but when they don't I can wiggle the fusebox and they will come back on. It's a redneck solution, but works for now until I wire in a new fusebox/fix this one.
I also cleaned up the wiring under my dash, taped things off/together, made it look neat and presentable. Also taped wires together by what they go to.
I did some reading in my shop manual and gapped my plugs to .030" The manual says .027'-.032" Dunno if it will make a difference, but I'll find out!
My speedo cable is very bouncy and off by about 5-10mph. Poured some graphite down it and will see if that helps it work better this weekend.

bird55 wrote:
A good thing to check ad try to keep maintained is the Heat riser valve between the Intake manifold and the exhaust manifold. You could also remove the valve with lots of patience and plug the open holes. But I'm not recommending this only as a last resort.
This can be a very satisfying engine for your use.

FYI, not a biggie, but I noticed in your pics that the gen. wiring harness is running over the water neck area and is stretched. It is supposed to be running under the front motor mount I believe or at least below the water pump as I recall.

I also ran a generator without any issues for the loads the truck requires.

That was a good trip you took and a good test of the truck! Pretty good testament to its reliability.

BTW, What is that bolt head in the middle of the valve cover for? Something added on there at some time.


Unfortunately my heat riser valve is frozen shut :( I really do want to fix it. I've soaked it a few times and tried to move it with channel locks with no luck. Any pointers on how to go about getting it functional again?

Thanks for the tip about the wiring at the water neck, I hadn't really even noticed it! The wires are stuck between the lip of the valve cover and the screw clamp on the radiator hose. I will definitely be moving them.

I was pretty pleased with how it ran during the trip. I'm thinking maybe of making it to my first slickstock in 2018 8)

That hole in the valve cover is from before the engine rebuild. My uncle was having trouble with oil getting up to the lifters so he installed one of those oil lines outside the engine.

I've only rebuilt 2 carburetors, my first was an Autolite 1101. The rebuild made a noticeable difference, and I learned that carbs weren't as complicated as I thought. The carb on the truck is pretty dirty looking. Luckily an extra came with the truck so I can rebuild while still runnning it 8)

I forgot to get a fuel filter today :cussing: I might grab one this weekend. In addition to that I'm thinking of adding the glass filter bowl from one of my old fuel pumps to the current one to help with filtration....

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'67 F250 CS 352 4spd
'03 Ranger I4 5spd


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 Post subject: Re: Straight Sixin' '63
PostPosted: November 26, 2016, 11:13 am 
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My 223 seem to be real torque monsters, but the load-o-matics and carbs have been upgraded or replaced. looks like you are well on your way.
Check your flasher unit under the dash to make sure the wires are making good contact. I am having problems with my running light on one of my trucks but I think the problem is in my headlight switch.
Great progress!

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 Post subject: Re: Straight Sixin' '63
PostPosted: December 2, 2016, 6:17 pm 
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unibody madness wrote:
My 223 seem to be real torque monsters, but the load-o-matics and carbs have been upgraded or replaced. looks like you are well on your way.
Check your flasher unit under the dash to make sure the wires are making good contact. I am having problems with my running light on one of my trucks but I think the problem is in my headlight switch.
Great progress!


Thanks! My buddy at work just got a '62 F100 that has a 223, but with the Holley carb setup. It runs noticeably smoother, and seems to have more pep. I'm weighing my options with going that route now...
I tightened down the bolt on my ignition switch post. It was a little loose. Since doing that I have had 0 issues with my lights now :lol:

I noticed that the 62 my friend has is considerably quieter than my truck. Turns out I have an exhaust leak at the flange. Tightened the bolts down more and it got better, but I could still feel a small leak. Took it apart and I have no gasket in the flange :roll: Adding it to the list!
The lifters in his truck are also a bit quieter than mine, so I'm going to look into that.

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'03 Ranger I4 5spd


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