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PostPosted: September 28, 2017, 9:53 am 
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mercuryv8 wrote:
I wish my wife didn't care what the neighbours think.

LoL

Nic


LOL...... Nic it took me three marriages to find the right woman and I wouldn't trade her for anything! (I'm not advocating for you to trade yours in, just in-case she's looking over your shoulder)

Jon


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PostPosted: September 28, 2017, 11:26 am 
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Just a few more observations:

I'm sure most of us here on the forum are "car people" (you can change that to truck people if needed) and have a passion for our vehicles - projects that we carry over into most aspects of our life, like walking through Home Depot and seeing something and going ah that might work for this or that aspect of our build, like the rubber roofing strips we used for our bed floor. We spend a lot of time thinking about how to do something even if we have watched or read what other people have done under the same circumstances. We are always looking, searching for items or answers to further our builds - projects, inquiring minds if you will.

I'd also guess that in our leisure time we like to watch car shows, probably shows that center around actually building or rehabbing cars and trucks, I'm not talking about shows like Overhauling or Fast N' Loud that do things in very unrealistic time frames with a unlimited budget, but shows that really get to the meat of the build and try to show what is involved in actually restoring a vehicle.

Two shows that we watch that to me are very realistic are "Iron Resurrection" and "Fantomworks" both are very different types of shows but both try to go into a lot of detail showing just what can be done if you have the talent and tools to shape metal, it was one of the things I always liked about watching Jessie James hand form a fuel tank side using a bag and hammer then using a english wheel and power hammer to form it into a actual tank side... so much talent.

Watching people who can take a piece of window channel that is rusting away that has compound curves and hand make a new one from scratch is just flat out impressive to me, shows like "Graveyard Cars" could be a much better show if they got rid of all the BS and drama just concentrating on restoring Mopars back to factory condition, they have done some miraculous work to cars on that show but I just can't stand to watch it with the sound up because of all the BS drama.

Vegas Rat Rods.... Steve is probably a guy with one of the best creative minds or vision, but I really don't like most of his builds, that is probably because they all look dangerous and very uncomfortable to drive, they might make a lot of horse power and scare old ladies - kids, but the appeal of his build to me wears off pretty quickly. Counting Cars is another show that is OK but needs less Horny Mike drama and more about the build details.

A show from across the pond that I've always liked is Wheeler Dealers, they do go into a lot of detail about that they are doing and why they are doing it, but it's mostly crappy European cars still enjoyable to watch even if I don't like the car they are fixing to flip.

It's funny how some shows are tied together indirectly like Bitchin' Rides owner has developed a custom external flush mount door handle that I've seen mentioned and used on other shows, or how Fired Up Garage spun off from Gas Monkey Garage, there are even kinda' weird shows like Fat n' Furious Rolling Thunder that while watching you wonder how those guys even get under a vehicle ( no disrespect intended to people of the larger body type).

Being a ex-drag racer I can't watch all the bogus racing on Street Outlaws which everyone knows a pro-mod is perfectly streetable for daily driving.... unless your last name is Lutz.

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/jeff-lut ... week-2016/

So what shows do you guys watch and enjoy? and which ones do you simply can't stand?

Jon


Next week I'll get back to more build stuff....promise!


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PostPosted: September 28, 2017, 12:13 pm 
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"The Andy Griffin Show"usually has some cool cars and you get Barney as a bonus....

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PostPosted: September 28, 2017, 12:29 pm 
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Mr. Jones wrote:
"The Andy Griffin Show"usually has some cool cars and you get Barney as a bonus....


Thank you Mr Jones, lets not forget Ernest T Bass either. lol


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PostPosted: September 28, 2017, 4:29 pm 
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I'm going to give a few of your recommendations a try. I usually just watch youtube content, I like the motor trend channel. I'm not super into off roading but "Dirt Every Day" is one of my favorites.

I've also watched almost all of the Powerblock shows like "Trucks!" and "Extreme 4x4"

The fake drama drives me up the wall as well. Those motorcycle idot father and son (OCC) started all that I think. It's like WWE with a motorcycle theme.

I just noticed a few weeks ago they added monster garage featuring Jesse James onto Netflix... so I have watched a few of those.

Nic

Oh man... we have taken your build thread off the rails. Sorry


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PostPosted: September 28, 2017, 7:16 pm 
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mercuryv8 wrote:
Oh man... we have taken your build thread off the rails. Sorry


Lol

Hopefully the Mods won't mind going off topic for a couple posts...

But I'll brinng it back on course, it looks like I'll be doing the power window conversion sooner than I though, the drivers side window crank is slipping on the shaft now and when I got home tonight and closed the drivers door it fell off on the floorboard, I opened the door and took a look at it and it is stripped, so if I can find the Saturn window motors locally for a reasonable price (along with the PW switches) I'll be doing it this weekend.

I just have to figure out where I want to install the switches.

Jon


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PostPosted: September 28, 2017, 7:51 pm 
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Blanger wrote:
Mr. Jones wrote:
"The Andy Griffin Show"usually has some cool cars and you get Barney as a bonus....


Thank you Mr Jones, lets not forget Ernest T Bass either. lol


Ernest T Bass ??? Who's is that??

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PostPosted: September 28, 2017, 8:54 pm 
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The guy that invented rap!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9jDBiMd3HNI


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PostPosted: September 29, 2017, 8:11 am 
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I found the Saturn power window motors locally along with wiring pigtails and door switches all for less that $100 so I guess I'll be converting our slick to power windows this weekend, I'll take pictures and make a post on the project next week along with what ever else I get accomplished, I had planned on working on the front bumper or the interior but looks like that may change depending on how long it takes to do the conversion.

Have a great weekend!

Jon


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PostPosted: September 29, 2017, 2:51 pm 
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mercuryv8 wrote:
I'm going to give a few of your recommendations a try. I usually just watch youtube content, I like the motor trend channel. I'm not super into off roading but "Dirt Every Day" is one of my favorites.

I've also watched almost all of the Powerblock shows like "Trucks!" and "Extreme 4x4"


Thanks,

I watch a lot of youtube content also, and the motor trend channel, really like "RoadKill" and the engine builders series, David Freiburger & Mike Finnegan are just too funny some of the stuff they do with junk like the Monza that they used gas powered leaf blowers as turbos to supply boost, or the over the top "boost caboose"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VPMBR-imqUk

Jon


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PostPosted: October 1, 2017, 10:50 am 
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Jon,
I have been checking your build from time to time and have been impressed by how quickly you got that truck straightened out and on the road. I held onto that truck so many years because I knew that in the right hands it had a lot of potential and I just didn't want to see it crushed. You have done a great job on it! I love the way you preserved a lot of the old finish leaving the " old truck" character that everyone loves. Having it modernized underneath with the chassis swap was a great way to go. I think it's awesome!

Joe Schneider


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PostPosted: October 1, 2017, 7:10 pm 
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:shock: Wow, what a great truck! Nice work! I really like the look of the outside. I spent hundreds of hours painting mine. Still, it isn't even close to a show car finish. I cannot fathom what it'd cost to get one of these to a modern paint finish, especially considering the rust going on there. Looking back, if I had it to do all over again, I'd instead have spent tens of hours doing something to make it look a bit more like yours, and called that good enough. Maybe a paint brush and a can of house paint brown...only because mine didn't look neat like yours. Mine was crummy spray painted early 1990s white.

I've had several custom cars. The ones with old-ish looking bodies and paint are just more fun. Not worrying about the paint, to me, makes them just so much more enjoyable. The better the paint jobs, in my personal experience, the less fun i've been able to have with them.

Don't paint it!

Also, I really like your inner door handles, what a functional solution. Mine come loose about once a month, and so far no amount of 'more tight' or thread lock can keep them from getting loose. Maybe I should just use the welder like you did and call that good enough.


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PostPosted: October 2, 2017, 9:17 am 
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66CCTWIN wrote:
Jon,
I have been checking your build from time to time and have been impressed by how quickly you got that truck straightened out and on the road. I held onto that truck so many years because I knew that in the right hands it had a lot of potential and I just didn't want to see it crushed. You have done a great job on it! I love the way you preserved a lot of the old finish leaving the " old truck" character that everyone loves. Having it modernized underneath with the chassis swap was a great way to go. I think it's awesome!

Joe Schneider


Thank you Joe,

It might seem odd or funny to you but knowing that you approve of the direction we took the truck does mean a lot to us, you know how sometimes a person holds on to a vehicle for years and over time they look at it and formulate a plan of what they intend to do with it, then sell it because of various reasons, sometime they have remorse for not doing what they had planned.

Then sometimes they see what the buyer did and either think I should have done that or disgust in what happen to the vehicle because it didn't fit their vision of what they had planned.

You are the only person on this forum who does know the shape of the '62 besides myself, I think some people who are purest would think I ruined a '62 SWB uni, but the reality is it was the only avenue to save the truck as far as I'm concern, yes anything given enough time, effort, and money can be put back right or to original, if a person goes down that road you have to consider what they will have when finished which is a very expensive, nice old truck that is in my opinion dangerous to drive along side modern cars and how drivers drive today.

We removed all of the dangerous aspects by using a modern chassis and drive trane, giving the truck enough reliable power to keep up and get out of the way of stupid drivers and brakes to save yourself if you can't.....and look really cool while doing it! lol

Anyway, thanks again for selling us the truck, we had no idea when we bought it that this would be the end result or the direction we would take it, and it has been a very fun build. I know you said you were surprised at the progress in such a short time but honestly doing a CV swap is just too easy, it's almost like it was meant to be.

Jon


Last edited by Blanger on October 3, 2017, 9:26 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: October 2, 2017, 9:37 am 
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viper driver wrote:
:shock: Wow, what a great truck! Nice work! I really like the look of the outside. I spent hundreds of hours painting mine. Still, it isn't even close to a show car finish. I cannot fathom what it'd cost to get one of these to a modern paint finish, especially considering the rust going on there. Looking back, if I had it to do all over again, I'd instead have spent tens of hours doing something to make it look a bit more like yours, and called that good enough. Maybe a paint brush and a can of house paint brown...only because mine didn't look neat like yours. Mine was crummy spray painted early 1990s white.


This ^^^^^^

Is exactally why I didn't want to paint the truck..... thank you!

viper driver wrote:
I've had several custom cars. The ones with old-ish looking bodies and paint are just more fun. Not worrying about the paint, to me, makes them just so much more enjoyable. The better the paint jobs, in my personal experience, the less fun i've been able to have with them.


Again thank you, you get it, as I've stated in a lot of my posts some people just can't get the no paint part, they look at all the work we have done and think that a slick paint job is the last step, when I tell them I'm skipping that step they just don't understand....why.

viper driver wrote:
Also, I really like your inner door handles, what a functional solution. Mine come loose about once a month, and so far no amount of 'more tight' or thread lock can keep them from getting loose. Maybe I should just use the welder like you did and call that good enough.


Well...it was a necessity in our case, but as you'll see in my post tomorrow the window crank is gone because we now have power windows, but the door handle remains and now I have incentive to do the drivers door the same way so they look the same....after looking at your truck, it's much too nice to do what I did to ours, I'd look for a different solution, like drilling through the shaft and putting maybe a roll pin in it to replace the screw, I've also seen others drill directly through the handle into the shaft (end), tap that hole and use a machine screw and a little thread locker to keep it tight, not sure, but like I said your truck is way too nice for my solution.

-----

It's funny, our '62 must have been the base or lowest form of uni you could buy in 1962, I have tried to figure out how Ford intended for you to close the door from the inside, there is/was no arm rest / interior door pull to close the door, no holes in the door where something was removed, the only way to close the door is to pull on the door handle or window crank, my guess is they sold lots of those handles back in the day because they couldn't have lasted very long doing that.

But we are going to install arm rests / door handles just now doing the research on what would have been used in the truck and it looks like Ford used a common arm rest for lots a different vehicles both cars and trucks that are cheap, so interior arm rests are in the future for our truck.


Thanks for the kind words.

Jon

(note: sorry for any mis-spelling in the last two posts for some reason this PC decided that I no longer need spell check...lol, right!)


Last edited by Blanger on October 3, 2017, 9:27 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: October 3, 2017, 7:26 am 
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Power windows

We did the power window conversion over the weekend, following a popular guide made it very easy to do step by step, we opted to use new PW motors instead of going to the salvage yard and looking for used units, because your suppose to use motors from a '99 down Saturn SC2 their old enough and rare enough to prolly be a waste of time looking for them, most yards in our area hardly go back much over 10 years, if your looking for anything older it's a crap shoot, then who knows how long they would last.

Dorman sells the motors, they were less than $30 ea, and came with the pigtail wiring for the motor connections which is important to get a weather tight seal at the connections.

Image

A couple things the guide we followed didn't mention is that the slicks window regulator has a "clock spring" that is a very heavy unit, the purpose of this spring is to help you raise the window, giving assist while you crank it up.

Image

To get the window regulator out of the truck the window must be in the lowest position so you can remove the arm from the lift channel, this of course has the spring at it's tightest point or rate. The first step once out on the bench is to grind off the heads of the three rivets that hold the old gear/spline to the regulator, a word of caution here since the spring is under it's maximum amount of pressure there is a good chance once the rivets are ground off at any point it could release that energy sending the arm into the "window up position" if your fingers are in the path of the arm it could be bad news.

Luckily on the first one I was pushing the rivets out with a hammer and punch when the arm took off, the regulator jumped up off the bench but no real harm done, the second one I unwound the spring to it's up position before removing a lot of the stored energy but it still could do some harm if you were not paying attention.

The other thing the guide didn't really mention is the orientation of the motors between the drivers and passenger door, this is really kinda' important because either motor will fit either regulator but won't fit in the door which was a mistake I made on the drivers door, it might have been obvious to some people who know the trucks inside and out, but I made the mistake of using the wrong motor and spent a lot of time trying to figure out why it wouldn't line up in the mounting area.

Image

Even with the correct motor it's still a tight fit and the regulator doesn't really want to fit back flush against the inside of the door but is close enough that a couple longer screws at the top will hold it just fine.

Image

I also had to grind one corner of the plastic gear box on the window motor, not a lot but just enough to get it to fit flat and square on the regulator.

Image

The motors are more than powerful enough to lift the windows, no problem at all, really it's a pretty easy modification that is worth doing.

Image

The other side of this installation is of course the PW switches to run the motors, we bought again Dorman PW switches for older GM vehicles that mount pretty easily using a piece of spring steel to hold them in the proper opening.

Image

Again the switches are pretty cheap to buy, but when I got to that point and started looking at the area I had planed to use in the door it wasn't going to work because of the inner structure of the door that has all the reinforcement for the door hinges, there were other places that offered enough room but they would create other problems down the road if you had to remove the regulator again.

Then I had originally thought I'd just solder the wires to the back of the switch terminals, yeah it's plastic but it could be done if your careful, but that creates a problem if you ever want to remove the switch, it really needs a plug at the switch like the factory used so the wiring and switch can be separated easily in the future.

We had bought 3 switches total two singles and one double because we were not sure where we would end up mounting them, the singles use a 5 pin connector that isn't available at any of our local parts stores, the double (drivers side) uses a 6 pin connector and also is a special order item.

I really didn't want to cut up the doors to install the window switches, of course there are other ways to run the motors up and down with a simple DPDT center off toggle switch that could be mounted anywhere, but I want a more custom look that is semi-flexible or changeable, so I decided to just make a new face plate for the console that would allow me to put the switches in it.

Image

Again I need the wiring pigtail connections so the face plate can be removed, so we decided to just use the two single switches mounted in the console and ordered the wiring connectors from Summit, so it'll be a few days before they arrive and we have the job 100% complete....in the mean time I can run the windows up and down by just adding power to the wires from the fuse box.

When the wiring is complete I'll add a 20a circuit breaker to the power feed instead of a fuse, I'm not using relays to run the motors although you could if you wanted to, the circuit breaker is a better solution than a fuse in this situation in-case a switch would stick closed.

So I'll finish the post when the pigtails come in and I get the wiring completed.

Jon


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PostPosted: October 3, 2017, 9:51 am 
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Interior (part 1)

With the power window motors installed and the wiring ran we could focus a little on a couple interior projects. We tossed around door panels several times, our slick never had any but wanted to add a little custom look to the interior, of course the interior of our truck is blue, we bought a black seat cover that should be in later this week (weekend project), and could have used black vinyl to cover the console, headliner, etc, but opted for a dark gray that isn't real bold and complements the blue interior paint while not being a big contrast to the black seat cover.

We took the door covers that grant access to the interior of the door and covered them in the gray vinyl, this served two purposes, one being it added a accent color to the truck, the other being that it covered the speaker hole someone had cut in the panel years ago.

Image

To make it look like this....

Image

This material has a snake skin kind of texture...

We covered the console in it also.

Image

The finished product.

Image

The face plate for the console, when I made a new face plate I also changed a few of the switches, adding 4 rocker switches and removing 2 push button switches, then added the cutouts for the PW switches, we then covered the face plate in a carbon fiber vinyl.

This may or may not be the last version of this face plate, I have a lot of the acrylic material laying around and after making the first one it's easy to use that as a pattern to make another, as I drive the truck using the console I get other ideas of what might be a better design, the basic wood structure isn't going to change and it's mounted to the floor now but the face plate may get another version, time will tell. lol.

Jon


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PostPosted: October 4, 2017, 9:51 am 
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Interior (part 2)

Like I said yesterday we have a new seat cover coming that has been on order for almost a month, and it was shipped Monday so we should have it for the weekend, way over a month ago I took the time to clean up the old seat frame, removing rust, and treating the rusted areas with the spray rust converter that works really well, then gave the frame a coat of black enamel paint.

Image

For it's age the seat is in very good shape and only had one broken spring that I had to repair, of course this was on the drivers side the very last spring that always breaks and ruins the seat cover, I tried to weld it....that was a mistake, it's of course spring steel and is very hard, the weld broke as soon as I applied pressure to the spring, well the weld didn't break but the spring broke right next to the weld...lol

So I looked around the shop and found a piece of steel tube that is used for heavy industrial wire splices, it's kinda' soft metal that is intended to be crimped, the inside diameter was just about right for the spring to slide into and after a little grinding on the welded area the other end slid into it also, I used a crimper to smash the ends and after a month of driving the truck it seems to be holding just fine. The splice fits tight enough that it holds the ends of the spring in place, but before we install the seat cover I'll put a piece of fuel hose over the area and a couple cable ties to insure that if it moves around much it won't pop out and ruin the new seat cover.

Image

While the frame was out I also adjusted the wire that pulls the passenger side track release, and lubed up the tracks so they slide easier.....now we are ready for the seat cover....lol

Jon


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PostPosted: October 6, 2017, 9:14 am 
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First 30 days:

So this week I crossed over 30 days driving the truck every day, everything about the truck has been rock solid, starts every time, no CEL, transmission shifts good, no electrical issues or abnormalities, brakes and steering are perfect, truck tracks (going down the road) perfectly, you can let go of the steering wheel at any point and the truck goes straight with no drift or pulling in any direction other than what is induced by bad roads being uneven or having a crown in the center, it drives like being on rails.

The truck rides great, has only a couple rattles when you hit a bump that I want to eliminate, otherwise it's quite. Driving in the cool mornings there is lots of air leaks coming into the cab that you can feel, some of them are caused by the rot that was in the bottom of the A & B pillars, I sealed up the firewall when building the truck except for a few small holes and of course the air vents that bring air into the cab from the cowl leak some air even when closed.

I still have the heater shut off but will be opening the valve I installed in the heater hose very soon, we are probably in the last few weeks of warm weather and if my tests back during the summer are any indication the heater should run you out, the difference in operating temperature between the CV (210) and the slick (160) should make a huge difference in heater / defroster performance.

Sometime this month I will order the bed cover and get it installed, I have mixed feelings about the cover simply because I've never used a product from this company and a uni is kind of a odd vehicle with how the bed a cab come together, so I'm curious how they handled the curve at the back of the cab since the inside of the bed curves with it and any cover is going to have to address that issue, we will see how it goes, but as far as I could find this is the only company that makes a bed cover for a '62 unibody, of course you could always have a custom cover made at a trim shop.

We should wrap up most of the interior with the exception of the headliner this weekend, I still need to install a dome light and the wiring for it, I did install the 2nd rear facing camera last week but haven't finished it's wiring which I'll do while the seat is out of the truck being covered, I'll be glad to get the wiring for the power windows completed as it's been a hassle this week running them up and down without the proper switches.

I'm trying to figure out just how I'm going to deal with the air leaks in the A & B pillars, I could just fill them with spray foam and I have no problem doing that except that if I have to get to the wiring in the B pillars it's going to be a mess, so just stuffing insulation in there might be a better solution, the cowl air vents shouldn't be a big issue but if they are in the dead of winter I'll figure something out to stop the air..lol

I notice a lot of people either coming into or leaving our shop stopping and looking at the truck, peering in the windows and taking a step back to take it in visually, not many mention it but a lot sure take the time to look it over...lol it does get lots of attention on the road and while I wasn't really looking for attention it's nice to know people are awake enough to notice something different going down the road or sitting at a stop light. I had the first cop give me a double take the other day, not sure if it was the truck or checking for seat belt either way I'm legal and the truck is exempt in our state from seat belt laws, still it has them when I think it's a good idea to wear them.

I got most of the underside of the truck undercoated last week, the bare floor pans were bothering me I didn't want them to start rusting before I got a coat of under coat on them, luckily it hasn't rained here since the first week I started driving the truck so everything was good. I'm about ready to take it to a friend of mine that owns a exhaust shop to get the exhaust done, I'd really like to make it sound like a Mustang and have the tail pipes exit the chassis on each side of the license plate, but we'll see what the cost is going to be and what I can afford to do. I want to keep the front cats and O2 sensors and keep the H pipe setup, the original exhaust is only 2" so it's plenty restrictive but he has tons of room with this body on the CV chassis to do his magic...lol

Have a great weekend

Jon


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PostPosted: October 6, 2017, 11:34 am 
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Wow! This is beyond cool. Well done! Thanks so much for the shout outs! You've got some fantastic fab skills there man. These things are so much fun to drive. Looks like we both came in at about the same budget and build time. How cool would it be to see our uni swaps cruising down the highway together eh? Great work, love that truck!

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PostPosted: October 6, 2017, 11:55 am 
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River City wrote:
Wow! This is beyond cool. Well done! Thanks so much for the shout outs! You've got some fantastic fab skills there man. These things are so much fun to drive. Looks like we both came in at about the same budget and build time. How cool would it be to see our uni swaps cruising down the highway together eh? Great work, love that truck!


Matt,

To be honest yours and Nathan's builds on YouTube were the deciding factor in the direction we took our truck, I stole lots of your ideas and work like the rear cab mount you built. Thanks for the complements but I'm far from a fabricator, just a guy with a welder and a few skills that has a very good wife that wants to see me succeed and is there helping at every step, you know what they say about two heads being better than one....lol

Thanks for all the work you have done on your channel and the videos you post, as you can see by my build it does have a direct influence on people even if you never get the chance to see it or find out that it has influenced others, it's one of the reasons I'm posting on this forum to maybe help or influence - motivate others and show that it's really not that hard to do, it may not be the best use of a slick from a purist point of view but it does give a option for those slicks that are just too far gone to be restored.

Thanks again.....

Jon


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