'65 F100 SWB - yes another Crown Vic swap

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Blanger
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Re: '65 F100 SWB - yes another Crown Vic swap

Post by Blanger »

snoracer wrote: I like the idea of a hidden hitch. Here's something you could use for license lights: last summer I bought a pair of license retainer bolts that have little LED's built in. Found them at one of the vendors at the Goodguys show in Des Moines. I just did a quick Google search and found that amazon has them also.
I'm hoping to use my uni to pull a vintage travel trailer to out of town car shows. Saves on motel room costs. Right now we're having to drive two vehicles to shows. I pull the travel trailer with my super duty, and my wife drives the Packard.

Tim,
Thanks Tim...

I'll do a search on Amazon and check them out, you should have no problem pulling a trailer that is what the car was made for, even the CV has a 2k advertised towing capacity I think the RM wagon was 5k? with the towing package.

The hidden hitch does have a few issues, one being the safety chains and their attachment points being behind the roll pan, and of course hiding the trailer wiring connection behind the roll pan also. The Uni you have has a factory roll pan with a license plate cutout it would be very easy on it to do basically the same thing with a flip up or down license plate mount, or if it's bad cut it out and use a roll pan like we put on the '65 there is no reason that it wouldn't fit the uni, yeah it would need some modification but nothing to challenging I'd think. I just wanted the option on the '65 to tow a small trailer and it had the towing package - hitch didn't see a lot of point in not using it, it is solidly welded to the frame (actually ties the two rear frame rail together) so it would tow way beyond its rated capacity. (but I'd never do that...lol)

Jon
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Re: '65 F100 SWB - yes another Crown Vic swap

Post by SteveCanup »

Blanger wrote:I wanted to tell you that we read your post about your truck carpet ($20 Wally World Rug) and my wife is going to try that in the '65 at least look around to see what we can find that might work, I also wanted to ask you about the trim you used at the thresholds, is that something you made, original to the truck, or bought?
The 5x7 black rugs at Walmart that have the loop pile look exactly like what was in the 60's vehicles. A 5x7 will cover the floor of a mid-60's F-100 with some left over to cover the kick panels. If you cut it right, you can put the 'bound' edge out on the kick panel an it gives it a nice finished look. Many do not realize that I don't have a 'carpet kit' in my truck. If you carefully use a heat gun (be careful...it will melt the carpet, lol) and some bricks (or similar heavy object) you can reasonably shape the carpet to your floor pan. I also used the gray underlayment for laminate flooring for soundproofing and padding under the carpet. I actually put 2 layers of that down and then the carpet and it really made a difference. Just another way to "skin the cat." I was fortunate enough to have a truck that still had the original chrome threshold molding. I did purchase some new chrome phillips head screws for them. If they had been missing I would probably see if I could form some from either some aluminum or wood. I will try to get some 'close-up' pics of the carpet...it's winter-time nasty right now lol....
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Re: '65 F100 SWB - yes another Crown Vic swap

Post by SteveCanup »

Jon...here's the driver's side. I cut the carpet off at one end and reused it, with the bound edge, to cover my kickplates...
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Someone needs to vacuum out their truck! And I have a piece of carpet kinda' hanging down there under the dash...but to me, this looks like 60's loop-pile carpet...
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Passenger side view
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I just used contact cement to attach the carpet. $10 for a can at Walmart, brush it onto the metal, let it dry about 5-10 minutes and stick your carpet to it. It has held up for at least 3 years now...I did have to pull the driver's side off to get to the hidden bolt to remove the fender. It needs a little re-gluing.

Hope that this helps....
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Blanger
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Re: '65 F100 SWB - yes another Crown Vic swap

Post by Blanger »

SteveCanup wrote:The 5x7 black rugs at Walmart that have the loop pile look exactly like what was in the 60's vehicles. A 5x7 will cover the floor of a mid-60's F-100 with some left over to cover the kick panels.
Thank you Steve.....

That helps a lot.
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Re: '65 F100 SWB - yes another Crown Vic swap

Post by Blanger »

Final Assembly (part 5)

With the interior harness basically installed (I need to clean up the routing and secure it) I could install the brake pedal assembly and steering column, both went in without a hitch so the mock up worked in that regard, with this done I could reconnect the brake light switch, and all the other column wiring connections, some of the connections are tight but that is to be expected since the area behind the slicks dash is less than half the space the RM had so you have to cram more wire in less space, but it's fine there is still more than enough room for all the wiring and it's a lot less wiring than the CV.

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The steering shaft hooked right back up as did the shifter linkage, like I mentioned before the steering shaft that connects to the column (intermediate shaft) is telescopic so you have a few inches of wiggle room, this aspect was a lot simpler than the uni was with the aftermarket steering column.

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Brake pedal might be a little high and I might have to modify it like I did in the uni but we'll have to get the seat and gas pedal installed to see where it lands, this kinda' surprised me since it was ok during the mock up so it may just be that the rest isn't installed so it looks higher than it should.

The gas pedal will have to have the arm that the throttle cable connects to heated and bent slightly to the passenger side and in towards the firewall a slight amount, this is because of the differences between the two firewalls, on the RM it had a depression that the pedal sat in while the area where the throttle cable entered the firewall was at a different level, the slicks firewall is basically flat so the angle has to be modified so you can get WOT (wide open throttle) and that it has enough slack so the throttle will go totally closed when you release the pedal. ( I knew this would have to be done from the mock up but wanted to wait till the throttle cable was installed for the last time so it was correct.)

The area where I installed the windshield washer tank may look a little unorthodox because its mounted to the back side (engine side) of the radiator fans, but since it is small and is behind the fans it will have no effect on cooling but it is in a location that is easily accessible to add fluid for my wife without standing on something.

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We installed the hood which we didn't do during mock up, and it took a couple tries to get it aligned correctly in fact it fits really nice and the gap at the cowl and tops of fenders is acceptable (better than we expected) even for our type of build...lol

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We are on the fence since we bought the '09 CV P71 for the step side build as to the windshield, originally we were going to remove the windshield from the step side cab and put it in the '65 (it will have to come out anyway because the gasket is bad), but since we are going to build that truck we will be short a windshield that we'll have to come up with, and the '65 is a much nicer truck it might make sense to just get a new windshield for it... we are still undecided at this point.

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Exterior lighting will be coming up soon, we will be doing the same type of exterior lighting as we did in the '62 uni that being halogen headlights and LED bulbs everywhere else, we have a good supply of 1157, 1156 LED bulbs along with the ballast resistors since when we did the uni we bought them in bulk from Amazon. I think we will use the same type of headlights we put in the uni with the LED halos, they have a really cool look and are bright enough for daylight running lights, I think I have a solid state flasher or two that we will have to replace the old flashers with so the LED turn signals will flash slower.

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The electrical aspect of this build has surprised me, I never expected that thinning the interior harness would be so easy, of course we will be adding our own wiring for the audio, power windows, and anything else we decide to add, the fuse panel from the Roadmaster was mounted to the driver's side of the dash, actually in the side of the dash, and used a piece molded into the dash to mount, at the moment it is just hanging in the air off the harness and it wound up on the passenger side of the steering column. I need to look at it closely to see if I can make some sort of bracket to mount it, it's not so heavy that it would cause a problem but really needs to be secured in some fashion under the dash.

Two of the circuits I removed from the harness were power wires for the HVAC and the radio, I kept the wiring for those power circuits from the fuse box and just rolled those wires up at the moment, I'll reuse them to power the blower motor and the audio so the fuses in the panel will match the circuit.

For the time being like the uni we will reuse the slicks wiper motor but will mate it to the RM switch in the column we will only have two speeds but I promise that when we do the step side truck I'll pull the wiper assembly out of it and figure out if I can mount the donor wiper motor to the slicks wiper transmission, if I'm successful then one by one I'll retro-fit the other trucks, I've kept the wiper assemblies out of each of the donor vehicles and left the wiring intact so it should be kinda' easy if I can make the mechanical aspect work.

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So this coming weekend is making it run again, hopefully that goes off without a hitch and we keep all that smoke in the wiring harness...lol

Jon
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Re: '65 F100 SWB - yes another Crown Vic swap

Post by Blanger »

Final Assembly (part 6)

Well the '65 lives again, runs and moves under it's own power....

But it wasn't without being a little stubborn ...lol actually I had a few problems that were all my fault and I'll cover them now.

Most of you will remember that I did all the tune up while the truck was apart, part of doing that was I replaced the distributor which is pretty straight forward, it's keyed to the cam and while I had replace the cap and rotor on a Chevy LT1 before I had never removed the complete distributor assembly. Like I said it's keyed to fit a dowel on the end of the camshaft and everything I had read about replacing the distributor was just remove it and put the new one back on in the same clocked position....everything will be fine, but something so simple I screwed up and got it off and while it looked like it was correct it wasn't.

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If you look at the picture above you'll see that the rectangle slot that is where the dowel pin is suppose to mate with the cam but it does have other locations that it could fall into, so I guess that when I slid the distributor in it rotated a little making it out of time, being out of time of course will keep it from starting but because of it being out of time and I kept trying to figure it out on one try to start it it bucked the starter busting the nose off the starter...ooops.

So I pull the starter, drain the coolant, pull the water pump, harmonic balancer, and the distributor, while I can't really see my screw up this time I marked the location of the cam pin on the timing cover and marked the location of the rectangle slot on the distributor, so what was happening was that as the distributor was sliding in the cam it was rotation because of a couple o rings on the end of the distributor shaft, once I marked both locations I could get the distributor in correctly.

Then reassembled everything along with a new starter and by noon it fired right up...... happy days!

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Sunday was a nice enough day to take it outside let it run to fill it with coolant and bleed all the air out of the cooling system.

So it lives again, now it's on to all the little things (well the stuff that isn't a full day project) which I'll cover tomorrow.

Jon
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Re: '65 F100 SWB - yes another Crown Vic swap

Post by Blanger »

Final Assembly (part 7)

It's the little stuff + a little wiring......

There is always lots of little things to do during the build, some have to be timed to coincide with other things others can be done at any point , you could fill a whole day or weekend just doing all this little stuff, I have a long list of these types of things to do from seam sealing the drip rail around the cab roof to polishing the chrome dash parts, it will take up a lot of days to do all of this stuff so I do a couple larger projects that take a few hours then switch off to do a few of the smaller chores.

One of the smaller things was seam sealing the cab drip rail, since the wife is painting things and moving rearwards in that direction I thought I'd better get that done so it's not holding her up, the 3M sealer works really well I squeezed it out along the drip rail then used a brush I cut down the bristles to spread it around into the areas it needed to cover, it's kinda' self leveling and said on the package to let cure 24-48 hrs before painting.

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While that was curing I replaced the headlight adjusters on both sides, looked for a spare circuit that was powered only when the key was on for the halos in the new headlights. I found that circuit inside the cab and spliced into it then installed a junction box on the interior side of the firewall (I'll need this circuit again for the audio) and ran a 12 gauge wire from the splice to the junction box. (this circuit is unused and was left over from removing the door wiring), then ran a 14g wire through the firewall to the headlights.... I had previously added pigtails to the LED portion of the headlights while they were on the work bench, all I had left to do was cut those wires to length and tie all of them together, ground the negative side of the LEDs and wala!.. So now the halos work as daylight running lights just like the '62 uni does.

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While I'm doing all of this the wife is painting the hood after I welded the hood ordainment holes closed, she also painted the headlight trim, and turn signal trim parts, we had to measure the mounting holes in the '62 step side hood and locate those places on the '65 hood for the hood side emblems from the '62.....confused? I also installed the new windshield washer nozzles in the hood after the paint cured.

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Another of the little things I did was strip out both doors of the glass, regulators, and all the anti-rattlers and weather stripping, old door seals, then my wife applied paint stripper to the interior side of the doors and scraped all the old black paint off of them. They still need to be sanded, painted, and rebuilt but we are that far on the doors.

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I'm hoping next weekend I can get most if not all of the exterior lighting finished, maybe get the window regulators modified for the power window motors. We have pretty well decided to just have a local glass shop install a new windshield in the '65, as soon as the cowl and A pillars are painted we can get that going, glass, doors, and it can go around the block, still lots to do but the list is getting shorter...lol

At some point we will have to take a day to recover the Roadmaster seats that are going in the '62 uni, and figure out the mounting for them, it will be interesting to see if the uni is more comfortable with the RM seats, we have done all the measuring and looks like they will fit like a glove and I'll have to do a little wiring to make the power function work again, I'm not sure if I'll make all of it function, really it just needs to go up/down and forward/reverse, no need for all the other functions like the tilt there isn't enough room to use that function anyway.

I do have the sound deadener for the floor and we still have the cab roof insulation stuff we used on the unibody , as soon as the small amount of wiring I have left to do is completed I'll probably install those items.....

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This picture should give you a idea of the two tone paint scheme we are doing on the '65, just remember this is going to get aged and weathered.....

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Jon
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Re: '65 F100 SWB - yes another Crown Vic swap

Post by SteveCanup »

Wow! Fantastic! Jon...that color scheme looks awesome! Can't wait to see the finished truck. Your wife has done a great job! You need to double her pay....lol...
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Re: '65 F100 SWB - yes another Crown Vic swap

Post by Blanger »

SteveCanup wrote:that color scheme looks awesome! Can't wait to see the finished truck
Thanks Steve...

She is still kinda' unsure about it, I really like it a lot so I pushed her in that direction, if you look closely at the picture of the windshield washer nozzle you can see the pits in the hood, since this is a rattle can paint job we are just trying to get a consistent group of colors over the whole truck, it also has to have a coat of gray primer sprayed on before the color goes on or the color hue changes from light to dark, since it's a rattle can paint job it's not going to last very long out in the weather and that is ok with us, mother nature will accelerate the aging process pretty quickly and there will be enough color left to get the effect we are looking for....then both of the colors are satin and what little shine they have will fade away very quickly.

All in all this is going to be about a $200-$250 paint job which I couldn't even buy a gallon of one color of urethane, hardener, and thinner for, in the end I think it will give us the effect we are looking for, it will take a few months of sitting outside to get really ripe (lol) but we don't expect it to look pretty for very long, nor do we want it to, but I still find myself trying to protect the paint doing things like the headlights...lol it's just a habit from working on customer cars for so many years.

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One other thing I'll mention is that I was really surprised the anti-thief system (VATS) was satisfied by just the key in the ignition, it of course has no door switches, seat belts, air bags any more and the funny thing is it started right back up (after I fixed my screw up), no chime or light for "door ajar" (which I expected), no light for a air bag fault, although the headlight chime still works if the headlights are on and the ignition is turned off...lol

When I was probing with a test light to find a circuit that was "hot" with the "key on only" I came across a wire that when grounded made the interior lights come on, I thought cool I'll remember that wire, when I remove the test light the lights stayed on.... I touched the pin again thinking they would toggle and go off, nope, but turning on the ignition turned the lights off so that was a door switch I'm guessing because they never dimmed or went out until the ignition was turned on, so that gives me a very easy way to have interior lights that could be turned on with a momentary switch and would go off as soon as you turn the ignition switch on....pretty cool.

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Hows your truck coming?

Take care,

Jon
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Re: '65 F100 SWB - yes another Crown Vic swap

Post by SteveCanup »

Jon...another suggestion about the paint. I painted mine with oil-based rustoleum that I purchased in the quart can. I stripped and primered my truck with rattle can gray and then mixed semi-gloss white with a few drops of Japan Dryer and mineral spirits (if I remember correctly) and loaded my cheap Harbor Freight gun and shot it under my little carport. The Japan Dryer will make the rustoleum dry much quicker (within about 30-40 minutes on a very warm June day.) It took 2 $10 cans of paint plus the mineral spirits and Japan dryer. I think I had about $50 in materials. That was 3+ years ago and it is holding up great. I did 'touch up' a section of the bed without any problem at all.
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Re: '65 F100 SWB - yes another Crown Vic swap

Post by Blanger »

SteveCanup wrote: I painted mine with oil-based rustoleum that I purchased in the quart can.
Thanks for the info.......but it is way too durable for our wants/needs....remember we want rust! lol

Actually we thought about doing the exact same thing, but then there is the choice of color, the quarts are limited in colors and the cream/burgundy colors we used we went though a lot of different colors to find the right two, and I wanted something thin like a spray bomb that would give it a color to rust through, I know that goes against the grain, everyone wants a nice looking paint job except us. Honestly we like the way the '62 uni looks and if the '65 had been all one color (even green) we would have been happy to just let it age more, but that's not the way we got the truck it had a green base color on the cab and bed, a white doghouse and tailgate, all of it had been primed over with a combo of black and gray primers. I think even with all the primer if it had been all green underneath we would have sanded the primer off to get back to the green and let it age. So....we had to paint it, and if you have to paint it why not just go out of your way to make it different? kinda' like a factory paint scheme might have been but with our own twist so to speak.

Like I said above I know that goes against the grain, your truck looks great, we are just more concern with making it look like crap (in the end), it's one of the things I like about slicks they look good in just about every state you see them in from totally restored to ready for the junk yard, they have very unique body lines that are reminiscent of the '50s vehicles that we love, it's hard to really explain our point of view.

Think about when you are driving down the road and looking out over that wide hood (and the lower the front end is the better that view is) the truck looks big and wide, but slicks are small trucks compared to modern trucks, but that hood is huge and wide, it takes up almost a third of the body and looking out over it going down the road is a experience that a lot of people miss, I might be really weird (I am for sure) but that view out over that hood is something I really like about driving a slick...like I said I'm weird and amused by very simple things...lol

Anyway sorry to ramble on, thanks for the tip we may try that on the '62 step side build.

Jon
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Re: '65 F100 SWB - yes another Crown Vic swap

Post by unibody madness »

quick question what is Japan dryer and what do you consider a few drops? my son is getting ready to paint his flare side with tractor paint and the dryer sounds like a winner.
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Re: '65 F100 SWB - yes another Crown Vic swap

Post by Blanger »

unibody madness wrote:quick question what is Japan dryer and what do you consider a few drops? my son is getting ready to paint his flare side with tractor paint and the dryer sounds like a winner.
I'll give you the quick answer, Steve may have more to add...

Japan Dryer is : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_drying_agent

Here's a link to the product sold at Home Depot: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip ... /100162022

Basically it is a additive that speeds up the curing / drying time of oil based paints.

Jon
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Re: '65 F100 SWB - yes another Crown Vic swap

Post by unibody madness »

Jon,That's good to know......
Steve,do you just follow directions or do you literally mean two drops per quart'
Thanks guys
John
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Re: '65 F100 SWB - yes another Crown Vic swap

Post by SteveCanup »

John, as per using Japan Dryer....You can buy it at any hardware store such as Home Depot or Lowes. It is usually on the aisle with the paint thinner, mineral spirits, etc. I read several articles about painting a vehicle with Rustoleum and discovered that adding a "few drops" of Japan Dryer helps with the flash time on the paint. The first batch of white rustoleum that I mixed, I put too much in and it tinted my paint slightly as Japan Dryer is reddish in color. I would say an ounce per quart would work fine. I have also used the Tractor Supply paint and I have used their hardener in rustoleum paint. Just a warning about using hardeners...they are dangerous and will kill you if you inhale too much of them. I always wear a respirator...mostly....sometimes with rattle can stuff I forget to put one on.

Jon...Like you I've spent a lot of time in the past making a vehicle perfect to paint it with expensive automotive paint...and I am 'over that' now. I am not a pro-painter by any means, but in the early 90's I spent months doing bodywork on a '66 F-100 and shot it with NAPA MSA paint (Acrylic Enamel). My current '64 looks good in pics, but probably like yours, it is nowhere near what you would call a "show-truck." It is a 20 footer....The rustoleum itself as a paint is holding up good, but I do have some natural patina already showing up in places (read rust). I think that it is surface rust because I only shot one coat of rustoleum on the truck. I do have a few places behind the drivers side rear wheel where rocks have chipped away the paint and I have rust spots there...it is not rust through, just spots. My plan is to sand the truck down in the Spring and reshoot it. That is the beauty of rustoleum to me....
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Re: '65 F100 SWB - yes another Crown Vic swap

Post by Blanger »

Steve,
SteveCanup wrote:.Like you I've spent a lot of time in the past making a vehicle perfect to paint it with expensive automotive paint...and I am 'over that' now.
Hopefully I haven't been a "bad" influence on you being over having a nice paint job, in my case I just don't care anymore about it and as I've stated before I do in a weird way like the '62 being rusty, dented, and just generally looking like it was dragged out of a barn...because in fact it was! lol

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If you have 30 minuets to kill this is a interesting video about a kid and his '66 F-100......



Jon
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Re: '65 F100 SWB - yes another Crown Vic swap

Post by SteveCanup »

Jon, I listened to all of the video....all I can say is "incredible!" I would have already had a lawyer all over the HOA....this would have went to court in a New York minute. No one will tell me what I can or cannot park in my driveway....

I give kudos to the kid in seeming to take the "high road" in this....
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Re: '65 F100 SWB - yes another Crown Vic swap

Post by Blanger »

SteveCanup wrote: No one will tell me what I can or cannot park in my driveway....
Yup, it's why I say I don't care what the neighbors think or say, they can stay on their own property, keep their opinions to themselves, and we will get along just fine ( of course I'd never live in a area that had a HOA ), heck I might even wave from time to time if I feel like it. I have a neighbor across the street that we have the perfect relationship, we both like old car, trucks, hot rods, he has several, he stays on his side of the street and I stay on mine, we only talk when he needs to tell me something, ask for advice, or needs to hire me to do something for him.... you would think since we have common interests (old vehicles) that we would be friends....naw not really, I strive to be that grumpy old dude that everyone steers clear of 'cause he's been known to carry a gun, it's much simpler that way. lol

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Re: '65 F100 SWB - yes another Crown Vic swap

Post by unibody madness »

My son wants to know,,,
If Japan drier is used do we still use the hardener or will it react to the drier?
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Re: '65 F100 SWB - yes another Crown Vic swap

Post by snoracer »

Blanger wrote:If you have 30 minuets to kill this is a interesting video about a kid and his '66 F-100......
So, I can't help but wonder what that neighborhood watchdog do gooder would say to the Dr or lawyer who lives over on the next block and parks his Escalade in the driveway because his Lamborghini and his wifes Caddy take up all the space in the garage. I'll bet Mr watchdog wouldn't have the balls to even challenge it. It's much easier to pick on a 17 year old kid.
That's why I moved out from the cities into the country. I have 5 acres, on a river, with lots of piece and quiet. I shoot my guns in my yard any time I want at whatever I want. I have a nice collection of project vehicles that would give those Do Gooder morons a massive coronary. I couldn't be happier !!
Sorry for the rant, I strayed way off topic, but I feel a little better now.
Keep up the good work Jon, it's looking good. I agree with you on the patina. My uni has been sitting outside for so long that it has moss growing on the north side. I'd like to try and keep the moss on there, but I'm afraid it'll wipe or rub off during the build. There's plenty of faded and worn paint underneath though. I also have a 1947 Ford 2 door sedan that used to belong to my wife's great grandfather. We bought it when they auctioned off the farm. It truly is a barn find, or in this case, a chicken coop find. Great grandpa converted his chicken coop into a garage and that's where the 47 was kept. It only had 13,000 miles on it, but it was full of dents and bullet holes, and had very worn and faded paint - real patina. Great grandpa was 92, and didn't drive very well - hence the dents. The bullet holes came from kids shooting their guns at the old chicken coop, not knowing what was inside. Birds had made a nest on the roof, and pooped all over it. My son and I got it running and we drove it to the Minnesota street rods back to the fifties event complete with all of that Patina, poop included.

Tim,
Tim,
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