Questions About Towing

[Macon ACE]

My oldest son is now the proud owner of a 2000 F-250 SD 7.3 diesel:



He plans to tow a 29 ft. long trailer that weighs about 6,000 lbs. This is uncharted territory for us and I've found conflicting information on the internet. Some folks say a weight distributing hitch is a must. Others say that the F-250 is so heavy duty it doesn't need one. Some say sway control is a must have. The trailer dealer recommends an Andersen 'No Sway' weight distributing hitch ($500) but even he's not sure one is needed.

For those of you that know about these things: what do you recommend? Any advice appreciated.

[mercuryv8]

Sorry to say at 29 feet I would buy a fifth wheel. Is this a flat bed or camping trailer? 6000 # seems light for a 29 foot camping trailer.



Nic

[Toyz]

My 2005 crew takes my 30 ft trailer @ 6500 lbs. well in stride. That being said, there are still benefits to the weight distributing setup. Personally I would readily spend the money again just for the advantages of "leveling" the load. I don't run a sway control on this setup although I do with lighter trucks. The last thing I want is the dreaded "sway" if I choose to pass a semi.
Paul

[6166 Junkyard Dog]

we have pulled a 30' trailer and a 40' trailer with F-350's, F450's and a F650 with no sway bars BUT All had dual wheels,, SRW Trucks is another story,, I would be sure the tires on the SRW Trucks can handle the load,, Our 1999 many years ago blew the tire, ripped the bed and tore the brake lines off as well and since the truck was so new at Ford they took the lines off a truck on the lot to get us going

[bruceandersson]

How many times have you seen people pulling trailers that get squirrely on them, or experienced it yourself? I would not skimp on safety. Agree that fifth wheel is best option, unless you already have the trailer. Its not the weight that gets you into trouble its the distribution across the complete rig. Also - no surge brakes, must have electric w/ variable controller. Set it up so that the trailer brakes engage slightly before the vehicle. That way if anything does get out of line, the drag at the rear straightens everything out.

[Macon ACE]

Thanks everyone. He already has the trailer and it's a 2012 Zinger ZT25RB - not a 5th wheel. The specs say it's 6100 lbs dry. The trailer has electric brakes on the rear axle and the truck has a draw-tite controller. I found the Andersen No-Sway at a pretty good price on eBay, so we're gonna try it for now.

[LM14]

I pulled a 24' enclosed car trailer for many years with first a 1989 F250 single rear wheel super cab 4x4 then a 1999 Ford F250 single rear wheel super cab 4x4 when we raced. Always used a Reese weight distribution hitch with a Reese sway control on it. Never any concerns and we could run 70-75 if needed. Trailer weighed 9970 fully loaded. I would buy the good hitch.

Spark

[64 f100]

Used hitches are plentiful around here, and sway bar control is a good thing. 200$ should get you a good used setup. Even without the special hitch setup, the truck most likely would have no problem pulling the trailer, just a matter of safety. As to your trailer brakes, I would suggest checking condition of the brakes on the trailer, as it is several years old now, but more important are the condition of the tires. If original to the trailer, then I would think about replacing those. I would at least check the tires out. Unreal how much damage a tire can cause on a trailer. Some tires are of better quality than others, so check brand name on tires and as P/O if the tires have been replaced at any time. There are some really crappy tires being sold for trailers out there. Also make sure the truck has the 10 ply rated tires or better that should already be on the truck.

Rich