Rear fuel tank install

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jecsd1
Posts: 443
Joined: March 15, 2008, 10:35 pm
Location: Georgetown, TX

Rear fuel tank install

Post by jecsd1 »

I recently completed a rear tank install on my 63 SWB unibody and it was suggested that I post it here. So, here goes.

I assume that all 61-64's have the same frame basically and this may work on 65-66 but not sure. I am using a Tank from http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm It is labeled as correct for a 48-52 Chevy sedan, 16 gallons. I also ordered the universal lower straps. The top I made myself. The very rear xmember was the only one requiring modifications.

Being that I had the body off the frame at the time the install was considerebly easier but could be done body on frame.

[albumimg]4992[/albumimg]

First, I ground off the heads of the rivets on the rear most crossmember. This crossmember makes a "hump" upwards in it's stock arrangement. It was suggested that I flip it down and slide it back so that it could provide a place for license plate mounting in the future. I decided to flip it down and reverse it so I could notch the bottom for strap supports (see later in the article). The rear xmember flipped down will also provide protection for the tank in the case of a rear impact.

The crossmember can be seen here

[albumimg]4960[/albumimg]

Changing the rearmost xmember position in this manner allowed for 2 things. One, I was able to run top straps (1 1/4 18ga mild steel strips from Home Depot) between the 2 rear xmembers and the top of the tank will be level with the frame

[albumimg]4959[/albumimg]

And second it allowed me access to cut, bend and tackweld small pieces for the lower strap adjuster bolts to run through.

[albumimg]4961[/albumimg]

I got a role of door weatherstripping (also from Home Depot) to use as insullation on the straps. It is just some adhesive backed dense foam. Whether you use foam or rubber. There MUST BE some insulation between the tank and the straps or it will wear through with time. Not to mention it will be noisey.

The foam insulation can be seen here

[albumimg]4993[/albumimg]

The tank is about 8 inches deep at it's lowest point so I was able to tuck it up pretty high but you can see that it never rises above the frame rail more than 3/8 inch. Plenty of room!

[albumimg]4996[/albumimg][albumimg]4998[/albumimg]

Plus if you use a tensioning bolt like I did on the rear of the lower straps it makes removal a breeze. Also keep in mind that the suspension on my rear has already been dropped 2 inches and theres still plenty of room for exhaust or whatever.

[albumimg]4997[/albumimg][albumimg]4994[/albumimg]

Of course the tension bolts will be trimmed once everything is said and done but don't trim them too much or you won't be able to reinstall if you remove. I will probably take about 1.5 inches off each side. That will make them just slightly above the tank.

In order to fill from the side I had 2 options. either run the filler tube through the frame or on top of the frame. I decided to go through the frame because above the frame between the bed and frame would be TIGHT.

I used a 2.5 inch hole saw (again from Home Depot) and made a cut behind the rear spring perch. Because it's behind the rear perch, there is practically no load on this area from suspension or body weight. Plus it was a perfect straight shot to the filler tube mounting location.

[albumimg]5042[/albumimg]

I also chose to take a small notch out of the rear xmember for an additional 1/2 inch or so of clearance. The tube would've cleared without this modification but only by about 1/16 inch (too close for fuel line)

[albumimg]5043[/albumimg]

This is the filler pipe I came up with. The lower gold stub was supplied with the tank and the other segments are small pieces of 1.25 inch pipe from...you guessed it, Home Depot. Kind of rough at first

[albumimg]5041[/albumimg]

But with paint, and after the OK from Wilbur the tech inspector dog it came out looking pretty good

[albumimg]5044[/albumimg][albumimg]5045[/albumimg]

NOTE: I could've put the rubber hose directly on the supplied gold stub pipe and been fine. I chose to run steel through the frame for peace of mind.










At the time of writing I am finishing up the fuel door that will be installed once I get the body back on. If it looks like too much time has passed since the date of last edit...PM me and I'll get on it again. I tend to get side tracked.
Last edited by jecsd1 on January 28, 2009, 2:46 am, edited 5 times in total.
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Post by Fanatic »

better use this link. The other one went somewhere else

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ ... prd113.htm
INEPTOCRACY: (in-ep'-toc-ra-cy) : a system of government where the least capable to lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed are rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a diminishing number of producers.
63BIGWINDOW
Posts: 98
Joined: November 11, 2007, 11:26 am
Location: FtWorth,Tx

Post by 63BIGWINDOW »

Looks good Jason,now I regret using a 70 mustang on mine,I like the side exit,might have to copy you,gotta sell the mustang one now.
Derek
63 big window shop truck
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winr
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Post by winr »

Nice clean install jecsd1 !!

How many gallons does it hold ??


RickyBoy.
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jecsd1
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Post by jecsd1 »

it's a 16 gallon
Bad Jonny
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Post by Bad Jonny »

Nice work. I put a Cobra kit car stainless tank in mine. Had to narrrow it 6 inches, moved the filler to the top(there was already a hole in the bed from the bottom sump on my first cell)made straps that bolt into existing holes, and added another pickup tube. A days work, and now my seat moves all of the way back, and a little extra room. Not to mention the extra weight right behind the diff. Tank is only 11.5 gal, but its not made for road trips. Thanks and good job Bad Jonny
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Alan Mclennan
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Post by Alan Mclennan »

Jason, that is an Australian Blue cattle dog isn`t it?, does He/She like nipping at your heels? :lol:
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
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jecsd1
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Post by jecsd1 »

Alan, It figures you would spot the Australian dog. He won't nip at me because he knows better but he will sure get after the broom or a bicycle :)
ICEMAN6166
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Re: Rear fuel tank install

Post by ICEMAN6166 »

jecsd1 wrote:I recently completed a rear tank install on my 63 SWB unibody and it was suggested that I post it here. So, here goes.



I assume that all 61-64's have the same frame basically and this may work on 65-66 but not sure. I am using a Tank from http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm It is labeled as correct for a 48-52 Chevy sedan, 16 gallons. I also ordered the universal lower straps. The top I made myself. The very rear xmember was the only one requiring modifications.



Being that I had the body off the frame at the time the install was considerebly easier but could be done body on frame.



4992



First, I ground off the heads of the rivets on the rear most crossmember. This crossmember makes a "hump" upwards in it's stock arrangement. It was suggested that I flip it down and slide it back so that it could provide a place for license plate mounting in the future. I decided to flip it down and reverse it so I could notch the bottom for strap supports (see later in the article). The rear xmember flipped down will also provide protection for the tank in the case of a rear impact.



The crossmember can be seen here



4960



Changing the rearmost xmember position in this manner allowed for 2 things. One, I was able to run top straps (1 1/4 18ga mild steel strips from Home Depot) between the 2 rear xmembers and the top of the tank will be level with the frame



[albumimg]4959[/albumimg]



And second it allowed me access to cut, bend and tackweld small pieces for the lower strap adjuster bolts to run through.



[albumimg]4961[/albumimg]



I got a role of door weatherstripping (also from Home Depot) to use as insullation on the straps. It is just some adhesive backed dense foam. Whether you use foam or rubber. There MUST BE some insulation between the tank and the straps or it will wear through with time. Not to mention it will be noisey.



The foam insulation can be seen here



[albumimg]4993[/albumimg]



The tank is about 8 inches deep at it's lowest point so I was able to tuck it up pretty high but you can see that it never rises above the frame rail more than 3/8 inch. Plenty of room!



[albumimg]4996[/albumimg][albumimg]4998[/albumimg]



Plus if you use a tensioning bolt like I did on the rear of the lower straps it makes removal a breeze. Also keep in mind that the suspension on my rear has already been dropped 2 inches and theres still plenty of room for exhaust or whatever.



[albumimg]4997[/albumimg][albumimg]4994[/albumimg]



Of course the tension bolts will be trimmed once everything is said and done but don't trim them too much or you won't be able to reinstall if you remove. I will probably take about 1.5 inches off each side. That will make them just slightly above the tank.



In order to fill from the side I had 2 options. either run the filler tube through the frame or on top of the frame. I decided to go through the frame because above the frame between the bed and frame would be TIGHT.



I used a 2.5 inch hole saw (again from Home Depot) and made a cut behind the rear spring perch. Because it's behind the rear perch, there is practically no load on this area from suspension or body weight. Plus it was a perfect straight shot to the filler tube mounting location.



[albumimg]5042[/albumimg]



I also chose to take a small notch out of the rear xmember for an additional 1/2 inch or so of clearance. The tube would've cleared without this modification but only by about 1/16 inch (too close for fuel line)



[albumimg]5043[/albumimg]



This is the filler pipe I came up with. The lower gold stub was supplied with the tank and the other segments are small pieces of 1.25 inch pipe from...you guessed it, Home Depot. Kind of rough at first



[albumimg]5041[/albumimg]



But with paint, and after the OK from Wilbur the tech inspector dog it came out looking pretty good



[albumimg]5044[/albumimg][albumimg]5045[/albumimg]



NOTE: I could've put the rubber hose directly on the supplied gold stub pipe and been fine. I chose to run steel through the frame for peace of mind.





















At the time of writing I am finishing up the fuel door that will be installed once I get the body back on. If it looks like too much time has passed since the date of last edit...PM me and I'll get on it again. I tend to get side tracked.
Bad Jonny wrote:Nice work. I put a Cobra kit car stainless tank in mine. Had to narrrow it 6 inches, moved the filler to the top(there was already a hole in the bed from the bottom sump on my first cell)made straps that bolt into existing holes, and added another pickup tube. A days work, and now my seat moves all of the way back, and a little extra room. Not to mention the extra weight right behind the diff. Tank is only 11.5 gal, but its not made for road trips. Thanks and good job Bad Jonny


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Re: Rear fuel tank install

Post by Administrator »

jecsd1 wrote:I recently completed a rear tank install on my 63 SWB unibody and it was suggested that I post it here. So, here goes.



I assume that all 61-64's have the same frame basically and this may work on 65-66 but not sure. I am using a Tank from http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm It is labeled as correct for a 48-52 Chevy sedan, 16 gallons. I also ordered the universal lower straps. The top I made myself. The very rear xmember was the only one requiring modifications.



Being that I had the body off the frame at the time the install was considerebly easier but could be done body on frame.



4992



First, I ground off the heads of the rivets on the rear most crossmember. This crossmember makes a "hump" upwards in it's stock arrangement. It was suggested that I flip it down and slide it back so that it could provide a place for license plate mounting in the future. I decided to flip it down and reverse it so I could notch the bottom for strap supports (see later in the article). The rear xmember flipped down will also provide protection for the tank in the case of a rear impact.



The crossmember can be seen here



4960



Changing the rearmost xmember position in this manner allowed for 2 things. One, I was able to run top straps (1 1/4 18ga mild steel strips from Home Depot) between the 2 rear xmembers and the top of the tank will be level with the frame



4959



And second it allowed me access to cut, bend and tackweld small pieces for the lower strap adjuster bolts to run through.



4961



I got a role of door weatherstripping (also from Home Depot) to use as insullation on the straps. It is just some adhesive backed dense foam. Whether you use foam or rubber. There MUST BE some insulation between the tank and the straps or it will wear through with time. Not to mention it will be noisey.



The foam insulation can be seen here



4993



The tank is about 8 inches deep at it's lowest point so I was able to tuck it up pretty high but you can see that it never rises above the frame rail more than 3/8 inch. Plenty of room!



49964998



Plus if you use a tensioning bolt like I did on the rear of the lower straps it makes removal a breeze. Also keep in mind that the suspension on my rear has already been dropped 2 inches and theres still plenty of room for exhaust or whatever.



49974994



Of course the tension bolts will be trimmed once everything is said and done but don't trim them too much or you won't be able to reinstall if you remove. I will probably take about 1.5 inches off each side. That will make them just slightly above the tank.



In order to fill from the side I had 2 options. either run the filler tube through the frame or on top of the frame. I decided to go through the frame because above the frame between the bed and frame would be TIGHT.



I used a 2.5 inch hole saw (again from Home Depot) and made a cut behind the rear spring perch. Because it's behind the rear perch, there is practically no load on this area from suspension or body weight. Plus it was a perfect straight shot to the filler tube mounting location.



5042



I also chose to take a small notch out of the rear xmember for an additional 1/2 inch or so of clearance. The tube would've cleared without this modification but only by about 1/16 inch (too close for fuel line)



5043



This is the filler pipe I came up with. The lower gold stub was supplied with the tank and the other segments are small pieces of 1.25 inch pipe from...you guessed it, Home Depot. Kind of rough at first



5041



But with paint, and after the OK from Wilbur the tech inspector dog it came out looking pretty good



50445045



NOTE: I could've put the rubber hose directly on the supplied gold stub pipe and been fine. I chose to run steel through the frame for peace of mind.





















At the time of writing I am finishing up the fuel door that will be installed once I get the body back on. If it looks like too much time has passed since the date of last edit...PM me and I'll get on it again. I tend to get side tracked.
creedua
Posts: 19
Joined: April 28, 2017, 8:21 pm

Re: Rear fuel tank install

Post by creedua »

What sending unit did you use?
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