Aluminum door panel inserts how to
- Uncle Skip
- Posts: 4695
- Joined: July 15, 2006, 8:30 pm
- Location: Pearland, Texas
Aluminum door panel inserts how to
I made my Custom Cab door inserts from .030" aluminum SO sheet because I wanted to cover them with fabric and I didn't like the original plastic ones.
**Please note that I'm making a couple more sets and thought I'd take pictures this time so you can see how I did it just in case you want to give it a try.
First, here is what the finished product looks like so you can tell if you think you want this kind of look.
[albumimg]1728[/albumimg]
**FYI, the door pull is out of a Toyota van of some kind and is bolted thru the insert and the door skin. You can do the same thing for an arm rest.
Getting started:
The first thing I did was borrow an old plastic door insert to use as a pattern. I cut a blank piece of aluminum to size and scribed the outline of the old insert on it.
Then I cut it out with aircraft snips and finished the edges with a file to match the old pattern.
Note that I put in three index holes so I can make sure every thing lines up the same every time.
Here is the aluminum template with all the holes located. The depressions are in this because I used this one for practice before I made my own.
[albumimg]8634[/albumimg]
This is just a closeup of the details on the template. It shows the handle indents, but if you make your own, don't do this on the template.
[albumimg]8635[/albumimg]
Here is a picture of the plywood forming template. It also has the index holes to match the aluminum blank. This side is for indenting the passenger side door handles and the drivers side upper hinge bulge.
[albumimg]8637[/albumimg]
With the aluminum blank in place make the door and window handle indentions with the special tool..... or with the afore mentioned small rubber hammer.
[albumimg]8636[/albumimg]
__________________________________
At this point, I'm going to a buddy's sheet metal shop and cut the aluminum blanks for the new inserts.
We'll continue when I get them cut and I'll take pictures of the process of forming the aluminum to match the original plastic ones.
U@ss
**Please note that I'm making a couple more sets and thought I'd take pictures this time so you can see how I did it just in case you want to give it a try.
First, here is what the finished product looks like so you can tell if you think you want this kind of look.
[albumimg]1728[/albumimg]
**FYI, the door pull is out of a Toyota van of some kind and is bolted thru the insert and the door skin. You can do the same thing for an arm rest.
Getting started:
The first thing I did was borrow an old plastic door insert to use as a pattern. I cut a blank piece of aluminum to size and scribed the outline of the old insert on it.
Then I cut it out with aircraft snips and finished the edges with a file to match the old pattern.
Note that I put in three index holes so I can make sure every thing lines up the same every time.
Here is the aluminum template with all the holes located. The depressions are in this because I used this one for practice before I made my own.
[albumimg]8634[/albumimg]
This is just a closeup of the details on the template. It shows the handle indents, but if you make your own, don't do this on the template.
[albumimg]8635[/albumimg]
Here is a picture of the plywood forming template. It also has the index holes to match the aluminum blank. This side is for indenting the passenger side door handles and the drivers side upper hinge bulge.
[albumimg]8637[/albumimg]
With the aluminum blank in place make the door and window handle indentions with the special tool..... or with the afore mentioned small rubber hammer.
[albumimg]8636[/albumimg]
__________________________________
At this point, I'm going to a buddy's sheet metal shop and cut the aluminum blanks for the new inserts.
We'll continue when I get them cut and I'll take pictures of the process of forming the aluminum to match the original plastic ones.
U@ss
I'm not arguing with you. I'm just explaining why I'm right.
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
- ezernut9mm
- Posts: 9141
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- Uncle Skip
- Posts: 4695
- Joined: July 15, 2006, 8:30 pm
- Location: Pearland, Texas
- Alan Mclennan
- Posts: 9324
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- Location: In the shed... Cranebrook NSW
Uncle, I bought some of those plastic thingo`s, I was so disappointed with them, I haven't even felt like putting them in!. So put my name on how to roll.
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
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Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
- Uncle Skip
- Posts: 4695
- Joined: July 15, 2006, 8:30 pm
- Location: Pearland, Texas
Just an update.
I haven't abandoned this thread.
I have the aluminum material for the new set of panels, but I have to go to a friends shop to use his shear to cut the blanks.
I'm shooting for some time after Tuesday, since I'll be out of town until the. Everything else is ready.
FYI ----- I make exclusive use of "cleco's" to hold the panels together so I can trim them to size and keep them exactly the same.
Unless someone like Max or FordboyPete can post a picture, I'll try to put one up so you can see what they look like later.
Really, they are an indispensable part of my tool box.
U@ss
I haven't abandoned this thread.
I have the aluminum material for the new set of panels, but I have to go to a friends shop to use his shear to cut the blanks.
I'm shooting for some time after Tuesday, since I'll be out of town until the. Everything else is ready.
FYI ----- I make exclusive use of "cleco's" to hold the panels together so I can trim them to size and keep them exactly the same.
Unless someone like Max or FordboyPete can post a picture, I'll try to put one up so you can see what they look like later.
Really, they are an indispensable part of my tool box.
U@ss
I'm not arguing with you. I'm just explaining why I'm right.
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
-
- Posts: 513
- Joined: January 8, 2010, 3:56 am
- Location: york
Skip, Is it possible to buff the panel out then tape it off w/ 1/8" pin stripe tape and spray a flat silver coating on it to match the original chrome instrument panel after you remove the pin stripes? Or maybe use a fine grit sand paper or steel wool the dull the exposed metal. Then remove the pin stripe material. Just a thought. Would be very tedious work.
If anyone can engineer the idea into it, you can
Ah, How about using a milling machine to make the stripes? Time consuming though.
Wyatt
If anyone can engineer the idea into it, you can
Ah, How about using a milling machine to make the stripes? Time consuming though.
Wyatt
Wyatt
1965 F-250 (Betty Boop)
1965 F-250 (Betty Boop)
- Uncle Skip
- Posts: 4695
- Joined: July 15, 2006, 8:30 pm
- Location: Pearland, Texas
Wyatt.
I'm not clear on what you're referring to with the pinstripes. Do you have a picture? Or are you referring to the indentions on the inst. panel?
The aluminum (.032") is pretty thin for machining. I guess you could lightly engine turn it if you were careful, but it would take a LOT of time. Since the bottom of the panel is completely flat, it would be pretty easy to keep the swirls in a straight line, and you'd have to do that before you did any forming.
But to answer your first question, yes you can paint it without any problems. The only caveat is that you need to use zinc chromate primer. Lightly sand, degrease, prime the surface and paint it.
My only problem is that the small dents which are covered up with fabric, et al, would probably show on a painted surface. Makes me wonder if I could make a tool to use in a press to eliminate the hammer work. I'll have to ponder that one for awhile.
U@ss
I'm not clear on what you're referring to with the pinstripes. Do you have a picture? Or are you referring to the indentions on the inst. panel?
The aluminum (.032") is pretty thin for machining. I guess you could lightly engine turn it if you were careful, but it would take a LOT of time. Since the bottom of the panel is completely flat, it would be pretty easy to keep the swirls in a straight line, and you'd have to do that before you did any forming.
But to answer your first question, yes you can paint it without any problems. The only caveat is that you need to use zinc chromate primer. Lightly sand, degrease, prime the surface and paint it.
My only problem is that the small dents which are covered up with fabric, et al, would probably show on a painted surface. Makes me wonder if I could make a tool to use in a press to eliminate the hammer work. I'll have to ponder that one for awhile.
U@ss
I'm not arguing with you. I'm just explaining why I'm right.
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
-
- Posts: 513
- Joined: January 8, 2010, 3:56 am
- Location: york
Yes I was referring to the indentations on the cluster. What I ment was to duplicate (mock) the indentations with a painted or scuffed surface.
Yes it would have to be done before forming the panel in anyway.
I like the tool for the press idea but it would probably buckle the panel unless you had a form made to keep the panel from buckleing or twisting.
I don't know, I guess I was just brain storming. (Hmmmm, Brainstorming. Maybe there should be a section on here just for that.)
There may be a market for your panels if you can mass produce them.
Just let others paint them or cover them to their taste.
I will be sitting in the wings with my eyes trained on your progress.
Good luck pal
Wyatt
Yes it would have to be done before forming the panel in anyway.
I like the tool for the press idea but it would probably buckle the panel unless you had a form made to keep the panel from buckleing or twisting.
I don't know, I guess I was just brain storming. (Hmmmm, Brainstorming. Maybe there should be a section on here just for that.)
There may be a market for your panels if you can mass produce them.
Just let others paint them or cover them to their taste.
I will be sitting in the wings with my eyes trained on your progress.
Good luck pal
Wyatt
Wyatt
1965 F-250 (Betty Boop)
1965 F-250 (Betty Boop)
- Uncle Skip
- Posts: 4695
- Joined: July 15, 2006, 8:30 pm
- Location: Pearland, Texas
I got the panel blanks cut today on the shear.
The blanks are 30-5/8" long and 10" high.
There are six pieces, three sets, in this picture.
[albumimg]8674[/albumimg]
Here they are, stacked and ready for the index holes. I kept them all together with c-clamps until the index holes has been drilled.
[albumimg]8675[/albumimg]
The index holes have been drilled and the peg looking things are Cleco's that keep everything together and from shifting while I drill all the other holes.
[albumimg]8676[/albumimg]
All the pilot holes have been drilled. Now each panel blank will be Cleco'd to the template, scribed and trimmed to size.
[albumimg]8677[/albumimg]
NOTE: The holes along the edges are 1/8" and will be used to locate the holes in your door (if you don't already have them) for the trim attachment clips. Those holes in the door skin will be opened up to 15/64 later on so the clips will fit.
Once each panel has been roughed out to shape, each pair will be Cleco'd together, one set at a time, and finished with a file (including drilling the 1/2" holes for the window crank and door handle openings) so all contours match exactly.
Once all this is done, each panel goes on the wood template and formed to match the indentations for those window and door handles and the bulge for the door hinge.
Since I'm making six sets, the next stages will take a while, but I'll take more pictures as I go.
Stay tuned.
The blanks are 30-5/8" long and 10" high.
There are six pieces, three sets, in this picture.
[albumimg]8674[/albumimg]
Here they are, stacked and ready for the index holes. I kept them all together with c-clamps until the index holes has been drilled.
[albumimg]8675[/albumimg]
The index holes have been drilled and the peg looking things are Cleco's that keep everything together and from shifting while I drill all the other holes.
[albumimg]8676[/albumimg]
All the pilot holes have been drilled. Now each panel blank will be Cleco'd to the template, scribed and trimmed to size.
[albumimg]8677[/albumimg]
NOTE: The holes along the edges are 1/8" and will be used to locate the holes in your door (if you don't already have them) for the trim attachment clips. Those holes in the door skin will be opened up to 15/64 later on so the clips will fit.
Once each panel has been roughed out to shape, each pair will be Cleco'd together, one set at a time, and finished with a file (including drilling the 1/2" holes for the window crank and door handle openings) so all contours match exactly.
Once all this is done, each panel goes on the wood template and formed to match the indentations for those window and door handles and the bulge for the door hinge.
Since I'm making six sets, the next stages will take a while, but I'll take more pictures as I go.
Stay tuned.
I'm not arguing with you. I'm just explaining why I'm right.
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
- Uncle Skip
- Posts: 4695
- Joined: July 15, 2006, 8:30 pm
- Location: Pearland, Texas
FYI
Just discovered that my aluminum sheet is .032, not .030 like I originally wanted, and the hardness is T-3 and not SO. The thickness is not really an issue, but make sure you get the SO (soft) sheet. Makes a much nicer finish when you make your indentations because you can use a rubber hammer and not a metal ball peen with the harder aluminum.
Just finished two sets so I'll post pictures later this evening.
U@ss
Just discovered that my aluminum sheet is .032, not .030 like I originally wanted, and the hardness is T-3 and not SO. The thickness is not really an issue, but make sure you get the SO (soft) sheet. Makes a much nicer finish when you make your indentations because you can use a rubber hammer and not a metal ball peen with the harder aluminum.
Just finished two sets so I'll post pictures later this evening.
U@ss
I'm not arguing with you. I'm just explaining why I'm right.
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
- Uncle Skip
- Posts: 4695
- Joined: July 15, 2006, 8:30 pm
- Location: Pearland, Texas
The end of the project
Here are the pictures for finishing the door panels. I drilled ALL the holes in all the panel blanks at one time with the template.
Then I scribed the outline of the panel individually on each blank and rough cut them with aviation shears.
Then they were put back together in pairs and matched the edges with a curved tooth "vixen" file.
Once they were matched, I drilled the holes for the door and window cranks and formed the indents for them.
Then I made the upper door hinge bulge by using the peen on a ball peen hammer tapping around the cutout on the plywood template.
*NOTE: The hinge bulge is opposite from handle indents.
*NOTE: If you make sure to use the softer SO aluminum you won't have problems forming the indentions.
Hope the pictures make things a little more clear than I can explain in words.
This isn't a rocket science project, but it does involve a little preparation and planning.
And patience. Did I mention patience?
Thanks for looking guys.
Give it a try. I think you'll like the results.
U@ss
rough cutting each individual blank with the shears
[albumimg]8683[/albumimg]
detail from the rough cut
[albumimg]8684[/albumimg]
matching the edges with the vixen file
[albumimg]8685[/albumimg]
forming the door handle indents
[albumimg]8686[/albumimg]
looks rough, but this is the back side of the hinge bulge
[albumimg]8687[/albumimg]
finally the finished product
[albumimg]8688[/albumimg]
Then I scribed the outline of the panel individually on each blank and rough cut them with aviation shears.
Then they were put back together in pairs and matched the edges with a curved tooth "vixen" file.
Once they were matched, I drilled the holes for the door and window cranks and formed the indents for them.
Then I made the upper door hinge bulge by using the peen on a ball peen hammer tapping around the cutout on the plywood template.
*NOTE: The hinge bulge is opposite from handle indents.
*NOTE: If you make sure to use the softer SO aluminum you won't have problems forming the indentions.
Hope the pictures make things a little more clear than I can explain in words.
This isn't a rocket science project, but it does involve a little preparation and planning.
And patience. Did I mention patience?
Thanks for looking guys.
Give it a try. I think you'll like the results.
U@ss
rough cutting each individual blank with the shears
[albumimg]8683[/albumimg]
detail from the rough cut
[albumimg]8684[/albumimg]
matching the edges with the vixen file
[albumimg]8685[/albumimg]
forming the door handle indents
[albumimg]8686[/albumimg]
looks rough, but this is the back side of the hinge bulge
[albumimg]8687[/albumimg]
finally the finished product
[albumimg]8688[/albumimg]
I'm not arguing with you. I'm just explaining why I'm right.
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?