Feel free to add any pics or other information.
Banjopicker;
1. Remove the master cylinder from the booster; it is only to gain enough room to access the bore.
2. Measure the depth of the bore from the bottom to the flat of the base, where it mounts to the booster.
3. Start the engine, or apply sufficient vacuum to the booster to activate it as when the engine is running.
4. Adjust the booster pushrod to the length measured in step #2, from the flat of the booster.
Backyardrestro;
The proper dimension for the Bendix booster is
From flat surface around studs for master of booster to end of pushrod .880-.89
I could not find the 73 book this is from the 1974 Book
If the re-manufacturer uses a different piston etc the spec will be wrong. For most rebuilders its a one size fits all mentality, as long as it bolts on its good...
What the book says is important that if the rod is too long the brakes will drag if its too short it will clunk.
If the brakes are not dragging even if the rod is a tad short the booster should still work.
If he has hard pedal and vacuum going to it the booster is likely bad.
As someone said move the master forward but away from booster to see if its doing its job.
Is it a Cardone rebuild? Some are good some are JUNK... Its really hit and miss with those people.
A good rebuilder will give a booster with master cylinder already installed and rod adjusted.
Power Brake Dual Master Cylinder pushrod information.
Power Brake Dual Master Cylinder pushrod information.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
- Uncle Skip
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- Joined: July 15, 2006, 8:30 pm
- Location: Pearland, Texas