CPP Straight axle disc brake conversion.

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Greg D
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Location: Podunk Iowa
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CPP Straight axle disc brake conversion.

Post by Greg D »

I am going to write this with the assumption that you already know how to do brakes. I hope I don't miss anything, feel free to PM me if I did so I can edit it in.
As stated I used Classic Performance Products (CPP from now on) brackets instead of ECIs. I am very pleased with the quality and engineering of the parts. I have heard of all sorts of "adjustments" when using ECIs brackets and have not run into any of these issues with the CPP setup. I am not going to retype their instructions I will just go over the points I had to figure out myself. At the time the pics were taken I had the drivers side all assembled to make sure the parts were going to work. Be kind of careful as the some of the pics are drivers side and some are passenger, I will note which are which. There will be a separate "reply" for each set of pictures and it's notes.

First I will list all of the parts I used in my install, be warned CPPs instructions are quite vague in this area. CPP also has the conversion for different size bolt patterns I will stay with 5 on 5.5.
This conversion is being done to my 1962 Unibody Truck which has already been converted to a manual dual master cylinder using a 1968 Mustang MC. I picked this master cylinder because of the options it gives in the future. It comes in Manual drum-drum, Manual disc-drum, Power drum-drum, and Power disc-drum. I think you may see where this is going. I retained the manual brakes with this upgrade. I don't think the 223-6 that is in my truck could handle the vacumn demands of a power brake system.

1. CPP # 5764DBK-5.5 disc brake conversion brackets.

The following parts are for a 1973 Chevy C10 pickup
There is a very good reason they picked these chevy parts, it has to do with mounting. Because chevy calipers use a bolt to mount to the caliper bracket they were much easier to engineer brackets for. I figured this out just by knowing how Ford calipers are retained, if the brackets were for Ford calipers we probably would not like the price of them. When you go to buy parts you will likely get questions like "What Motor", it doesn't matter, these parts are the same no matter what engine came in the truck V-8 or 6. Heck have some fun tell em it has a 413!
2. MKD52 brake pads (semi metallic) or your favorite compound
3. BH86550 brake hose
4. BH86551 brake hose
5. 18-4035 caliper
6. 18-4036 caliper
7. (2) 13935 brake hose bolt
8. (4) or 2 pair O'Reilly HDW5004, Wagner F76074, Motormite 13897 Caliper pin

This list will be Ford parts for a 1993 F150 with the exception of the master cylinder.
9. (2) 81-60428 Hub & Rotor
10. (2) 13973 dust cap
11. 10-1485 master cylinder

These parts are part numbers listed in the conversion installation instructions, I had to figure the rest of them out.
12. (2) A2 outer wheel bearings
13. (2) A13 inner wheel bearings
14. (2) 44053 front wheel seal


Time to get dirty!
Last edited by Greg D on September 20, 2008, 11:10 pm, edited 7 times in total.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942

1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD


~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............

Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
User avatar
Greg D
Posts: 10113
Joined: September 13, 2006, 4:39 pm
Location: Podunk Iowa
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Post by Greg D »

OK let's take stuff apart. On the back side were the 2 lower bolts go through the steering arm there are castle nuts with cotter pins in them. Save yourself a headache and take out the cotterpins, lol. Seriously, I put that in because with 45 years of crud they can be tough to see, one of the nuts on the back on my truck looked like a dirty ping-pong ball. This came right apart with my trusty $39.95 Harbour Freight electric impact. I know what your thinking but I don't have a compressor right now.

After I got these bolts out I left the brake hose on and just set the backing plate on the spring. My hydraulic system is still full so I waited til I was ready to do the hose before opening it. You'll have to kinda wiggle the backing plate off. The second pic shows how much crud can build up in over 4 decades!

2237 2235
Last edited by Greg D on June 21, 2007, 10:19 pm, edited 4 times in total.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942

1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD


~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............

Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
User avatar
Greg D
Posts: 10113
Joined: September 13, 2006, 4:39 pm
Location: Podunk Iowa
United States of America

Post by Greg D »

Here is the bracket and it's parts & hardware for the passenger side laid out on the tailgate. You are looking at the side of the bracket that goes toward the inside. Notice the 3 sizes of bolts.
2236
Last edited by Greg D on June 21, 2007, 12:52 am, edited 1 time in total.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942

1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD


~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............

Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
User avatar
Greg D
Posts: 10113
Joined: September 13, 2006, 4:39 pm
Location: Podunk Iowa
United States of America

Post by Greg D »

Amazing what 5 minutes with a wire brush on an angle grinder will do! The 2 short bolts go in the top with the spacers to the inside of the spindle. The 2 longer bolts go through the spindle and the steering arm. The longer of the 2 goes in the hole towards the tie rod. Mind you NONE of this is detailed in the instructions. This is a "dry" fit for pictures, I am going to paint all the parts before I assemble them. I got lucky, my king pins were acceptably tight otherwise now is the time to do them. I didn't have to move the king pin retainers to the front side of the axle. The instructions say to do so if the brackets hit them.
2234223322322231
Last edited by Greg D on June 21, 2007, 12:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942

1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD


~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............

Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
User avatar
Greg D
Posts: 10113
Joined: September 13, 2006, 4:39 pm
Location: Podunk Iowa
United States of America

Post by Greg D »

This is the passenger side bracket set in place. The tab that showed on the outside in the picture on the tailgate is on the lower corner tie rod end of the steering arm, it fits over the steering arm. I know that may seem obvious but it's somewhat tough to see the tab in the pics. The second 2 pics are of course painted and bolted together. I'll get the axle and the springs painted when I put in the reverse eye main leaves. I find that if I just clean and paint while I repair stuff it surprises how much I can get done towards the final goal. I put new grease zerks in while I was at it and they were easy to get to.
2230222922282227
Last edited by Greg D on June 21, 2007, 9:20 am, edited 3 times in total.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942

1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD


~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............

Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
User avatar
Greg D
Posts: 10113
Joined: September 13, 2006, 4:39 pm
Location: Podunk Iowa
United States of America

Post by Greg D »

Here is the new passenger side rotor in place (not cleaned yet) with it's new A-2 outer bearing in place. You remove the outer bearing race that comes in the rotor and replace it with the A2 race and bearing, the A13 inner fits in the race that comes in the rotor.
2223
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942

1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD


~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............

Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
User avatar
Greg D
Posts: 10113
Joined: September 13, 2006, 4:39 pm
Location: Podunk Iowa
United States of America

Post by Greg D »

These 2 pictures show a modification to the GM caliper. The shiny spot used to be a ridge about 1/4 of an inch high that won't let the caliper "float" on it's slider bolts. Other than cleaning it off with the angle grinder all I had to do to them was paint them. I used high heat flat black on mine. Notice the orientation of the spring clip on the inner brake pad. It has to go on this way to lock into the piston. I beveled the edges of the pads, the best brake tech I ever met taught me that one. It makes the pads seat better, some pads for newer stuff come already done. I know that some of you may have never worked on a GM so from now on I am going to pass on a few tricks seeings as I used to get paid to fix them. Notice I drive Fords, lol.
222622252224
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942

1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD


~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............

Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
User avatar
Greg D
Posts: 10113
Joined: September 13, 2006, 4:39 pm
Location: Podunk Iowa
United States of America

Post by Greg D »

The first of these pictures is the passenger side, the rest of these pics will be from the drivers side. The caliper slides on over the bracket and the rotor. The slider bolts go in from the back. ALWAYS put antiseize on the threads of the caliper bolts of a GM, trust me on this one. You only need to tighten them to a good solid snug. If you don't already know this one. Take a piece of 80-100 grit sandpaper and scuff the face of the rotors a little. This also helps the pads seat and cuts down on squealing. I'll be replacing that drag link before it comes down off of the stands too.
222322222221
Last edited by Greg D on June 21, 2007, 1:08 am, edited 2 times in total.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942

1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD


~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............

Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
User avatar
Greg D
Posts: 10113
Joined: September 13, 2006, 4:39 pm
Location: Podunk Iowa
United States of America

Post by Greg D »

Now for the brake hoses. I spent alot of time figuring this out today. You gotta remember these are GM brake hoses! I could have took measurements and had some made but I decided to just see if these would work first. Good news is the stock Slick size lines bolt right into the hoses inside the frame so you won't have to fool around with 2 different sizes in your system. In case this is backwards for a C10, I can't remember which line is "supposed" to go to which side but what I did works. I moved the brace for the line towards the frame end quite abit, the Green masking tape shows where it was when the line came out of the box. These brackets are pretty tight on there, have someone help (or do it after it's bolted in place) and stretch the hose a little. This thins it just enough to be able to slide the brace, don't over do it.

I measured back from the center of the brake hose hole 2" and then down 2" for the first hole. I mounted the brace at about 45 degrees down and back from where the line goes through the frame, it is tilted slightly like it looks. This is to help not over bend the hose, and aims it more toward the center of it's travel. You will need to drill 2 holes here, the lower one for the "tab" is 3/8s, I drilled the bolt hole to 1/4", a 1/4 - 20 bolt should be plenty to hold it still. I drilled the first hole, put the bracket in and got where I wanted it, then marked for the second hole with the punch pulled the bracket out and drilled it.

The hose will "almost fit" through the stock hole in the frame, the retainer nut from your old hose will fit the new one. I just put it through the hole, thread on the nut and star washer and tightened down. It pulled itself right into place.

For as much of a pain it was to figure out, the hose routing is quite simple. It doesn't hit anything and allows alot of flex with out over bending or stretching the hose. Use the hose that bends forward off of the caliper (should go up also), the hose will just run in a reverse "S" as you see it from the top for the drivers side, the passenger side is the opposite.
Bleed the system and your good.

2241224222442240
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942

1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD


~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............

Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
User avatar
Greg D
Posts: 10113
Joined: September 13, 2006, 4:39 pm
Location: Podunk Iowa
United States of America

Post by Greg D »

Now I have had a chance to drive the truck with the new brakes. I'll tell you how it was, Great! If any issues develope in the near future I will edit this post so you will be aware of any needed adjustments.

I personally don't like brakes that are too sensitive these are just right. I expected the pedal to be "harder" than it is, it has what I consider just the right feel. Not too stiff but not in the least mushy. The brakes are consistent every stop.

After a drive I can also report no issues with the system so far. Nothing binds, hits or seems to require any adjustment what so ever. I am very pleased with the new system.

As a side note I went ahead and installed new wheel cylinders and shoes on the rear before I drove the truck.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942

1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD


~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............

Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
Phil
Posts: 2125
Joined: June 1, 2007, 9:37 pm
Location: toledo

Post by Phil »

* I added some stuff I found out scrounging for parts.
Mad props to Greg D for getting this together.
With his article I probably could have my 5yr old do this job. Made it EZ


1. CPP # 5764DBK-5.5 disc brake conversion brackets.

The following parts are for a 1973 Chevy C10 pickup
There is a very good reason they picked these chevy parts, it has to do with mounting. Because chevy calipers use a bolt to mount to the caliper bracket they were much easier to engineer brackets for. I figured this out just by knowing how Ford calipers are retained, if the brackets were for Ford calipers we probably would not like the price of them. When you go to buy parts you will likely get questions like "What Motor", it doesn't matter, these parts are the same no matter what engine came in the truck V-8 or 6. Heck have some fun tell em it has a 413!
2. MKD52 brake pads (semi metallic) or your favorite compound
3. BH86550 brake hose
4. BH86551 brake hose
2) Brake Banjo Bolt 13935 -Murray's, 82698 -NAPA, Autozone- discontinued
2sets) Chevy C10 caliper pins H4005

5. 18-4035 caliper AutoZone PN C111
6. 18-4036 caliper AutoZone PN C110


This list will be Ford parts for a 1993 F150 with the exception of the master cylinder.
8. (2) 81-60428 Hub & Rotor
9. (2) 13973 dust cap
10. 10-1485 master cylinder
NAPA says this MC fits:
Ford
Custom 67-72
Custom 500 68-72
LTD 67-72
Mustang 67-70
Merc
Cougar 67-70
Marquis 67-72
Monterey 67-72
Colony park 67-68
Commuter 67-68
Marauder 69-70
Parklane 67-68



These parts are part numbers listed in the conversion installation instructions, I had to figure the rest of them out.
11. (2)A2 outer wheel bearings AutoZone -not stocked NAPA = A2
12. (2)A13 inner wheel bearings AutoZone -not stockedNAPA =A13
13. (2) 44053 front wheel seal
Someday I'll get another slick :(
Image
User avatar
Greg D
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Joined: September 13, 2006, 4:39 pm
Location: Podunk Iowa
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Post by Greg D »

I have had some time to drive the truck on snow & ice recently.
On the LWB truck there were no issues with the brakes locking up to easy at all. A stated I didn't install a proportioning valve as I thought it might not be necessary with the 1 inch rear brakes and the extra weight of the long wheel base truck. It could be different on a short wheel base truck or if the rear brakes are upgraded to the later wider shoes & drums.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942

1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD


~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............

Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
Phil
Posts: 2125
Joined: June 1, 2007, 9:37 pm
Location: toledo

Post by Phil »

Greg D wrote:I have had some time to drive the truck on snow & ice recently.
On the LWB truck there were no issues with the brakes locking up to easy at all. A stated I didn't install a proportioning valve as I thought it might not be necessary with the 1 inch rear brakes and the extra weight of the long wheel base truck. It could be different on a short wheel base truck or if the rear brakes are upgraded to the later wider shoes & drums.


I drove mine in some icy snow as well. I put in a summit proportioning
valve and I centered it as the instructions say to do.
I made no adjustment to it as the truck really doesn't lock up on
dry pavement-front or rear. (this may be a bad thing-dunno.)
I noticed NO difference in stopping on dry pavement and never
tried it on wet before adding it for any type of comparison.

On snow it locks up and travels/slides strait.
This was done at 30mph
Someday I'll get another slick :(
Image
fmartin_gila
Posts: 1021
Joined: April 21, 2007, 9:58 am
Location: Mandurriao, Iloilo City, Philippines

Post by fmartin_gila »

Not to sound off about any of our supplier's goods nor to discredit anyone's installation. That being said, I commend you for doing this tutorial.
When I did my disk brake install on my 62 uni, I used the ECI kitI did have to turn the tapered bolts around because there was an interferance, and had to grind the same clearance on the caliper housing that you did. Other than that I had no issues nor had to make any "adjustments" that you refer to. It was basicly, an easy install.

I did notice that you either omitted using or forgot to mention using the disk brake(rotor) adjusting setup for the wheel bearings. This nut set with a thinner nut and castellated washer for the cotter key(available from any parts house) will enable you to properly adjust the wheel bearings and ensure maximum life from the bearings and the other disk brake parts while ensuring the disk brake setup operates properly as intended.

Forgot to mention, when I did the install, I used a proportioning valve from a 1978 F100 a friend was scrapping.
Fred
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Greg D
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Joined: September 13, 2006, 4:39 pm
Location: Podunk Iowa
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Re: CPP Straight axle disc brake conversion.

Post by Greg D »

I reused the castle nut that was on my truck, it was in great shape and worked fine.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942

1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD


~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............

Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
fordtrux62
Posts: 20
Joined: February 16, 2017, 9:04 pm
Location: kingman arizona
United States of America

Re: CPP Straight axle disc brake conversion.

Post by fordtrux62 »

I ALSO DID THE CCP DISC BRAKE INSTALL [ LEARNED THAT CHEV HAS THIN CLIPER AND THICK CALIPER IN THE YEAR OF CALIPERS MENTIONED YOU NEED CALIPER FOR THICK FOR FORD ROTOR PARTS PERSON TOLD ME TO ORDER FOR 79 C10 ROTOR THEY WERE ALL THICK FOR THAT YEAR SO USE PART NO ABOVE OR ASK FOR 79 C10 ] ALL FIT EXELENT .I AM USEING REAR DISC AND POWER FROM CPP ALSO SOON I WILL BE ABLE TO TELL HOW IT WORKS
fordtrux62
Posts: 20
Joined: February 16, 2017, 9:04 pm
Location: kingman arizona
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Re: CPP Straight axle disc brake conversion.

Post by fordtrux62 »

IN THE REAR HAD TO REMOVE OLD RETANING BRACKET BUT NEEDED TO REPLACE AXEL BEARINGS ALSO NEEDED TO INSTALL LONGER WHEEL STUDS HAD TO ENLALGE HOLES IN ROTOR SO IT SAT FLAT ON AXEL FLANGE ONLY DRILL ENOGH TO CLEAR STICKOUT ON STUD AS THE STUDS CENTER THE ROTOR
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