Slick 60's

I haven't heard or seen this posted,maybe it will save someone a little$$$$
Here's about all that's needed.

Contact cement,loop side velcro,some sandpaper,tape,hobby knife...The top bar has been taped and trimmed,this will keep glue off the stainless trim.

Get both pieces glued

I used a puddy knife to push the velcro into the bar,one side at a time to seat the inside corner

After the extra is trimmed off.
And with some glass.


I have had a set of these on my one-ton for about seven years now.The LMC window wipers installed at the same time fell apart a couple years ago.The Velcro still looks good.
OH!! In case I forgot that is the "LOOP SIDE VELCRO"

The division bars included with the rebuild kit I purchased for my truck seem really flimsy compaired to the originals... I was considering doing something like this, to see someone already has just confirms it for me. Great post!

808f250,
Thanks for input,I put that post up three weeks ago.You're the first response.What's up with that??
Dan

Ingenious.

First time I saw this Dan! Really like it and will use this when the time comes. Thanks for sharing.

SPark

More info.....couple weeks ago I did my 66C/S without removing the division bar,just cleaned up the visible upper part,did the install.For the bottom same thing,except I only put a small piece of Velcro,just enough to hold the glass steady...I didn't bother with the tape since it doesn't show..

Thought the original post was awesome, and filed it under what needs to be done, in the back of my mind. at some point it would have been my idea.
Thanks
John

Nice post, I'm definitely gunna try this out.

definitely worth the effort
my window rattle drives me nuts
wonder why i could not do the other side and top the same way
just drop the window down and do them without taking them out
for that matter i dont see why you could not do the ones along the bottom of the window the same way
i would like to experiment with a windshield wiper rubber along that area
i think we have up to 28" blades at the store
have to measure that window

Brian,
My post above 5/20/15,I did exactly what you wrote about.Took about a hour and a half.
Dan

You can buy window channel felt from glass shops that is made to do this, instead of makeshift material.



Johnny

longcabjohn wrote:You can buy window channel felt from glass shops that is made to do this, instead of makeshift material.
Johnny

I bet the velcro works just as well and probably is still cheaper http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Glass-Run ... aQodp0IFvg

What I used looked a lot like the Velcro but was called glass channel liner and was about $10 for 50 feet. Since a cousin owned the glass shop I got enough for two division bar for a bud light. I started in collision repair in 1967 so I have different way than going to a website and start ordering. Hope that don't sound like a smarta$$ reply


Johnny

MrJones: Just re-read your post as I'm in throes of rehabing my door/window inards...
I was wondering if you used a particular brand or loop size/thickness for your division bar?
I went on-line to check Velcro loop specs and there is a dizzying amount of info out there.
Can you(or anyone else) give any of your insights to a rank amateur?
Thanks. Jeff

My advice would be the same as longcabjohn's! Buy the channel liner! Velcro loop tends to collect debris more so than the correct product, thus the potential for scratches exists. i see no cost savings to the Velcro; Summit may not be representative of costs thru upholstery sources, just as buying cage nuts for ten to twenty times the commercial price from a multi-line vendor is not an equitable solution, IMO. I normally replace the division bars; my replacements are a full stainless finish,and beat the heck out of the work involved to completely restore an old one.
Paul