Sound deadening and Insulation tip.

[Max]

Prior to using the LizardSkin on mine, I epoxy-primed everything, seam sealed the seams, then sprayed an epoxy-sealer (reduced epoxy primer) over everything first.

Not recommended to spray LizardSkin or similar over any bare metal or unprepared surface.

[blackagatha]

ok, I'm kinda wondering about inside the doors, how do you guys prep the outside skins?

my doors look like they got CONCRETE splattered in them.... looks like nasty plaster. how to get that out?

[Max]

It's like a tar-based factory coating. Use a heat gun and a scraper and it will come right off, then wipe down the residue with paint thinner, acetone or similar. BUT - you will have a shiny bare metal spot where all of that was so be prepared to put primer on it right away after it's cleaned really well.

[blackagatha]

ah. it's funny what 47 years will do to tar.

[Max]

I just did this exact thing to my doors this weekend - removed all of the original tar-based undercoating they sprayed inside them. Last of that mess I'll ever have to deal with (on this slick anyway).

Took a heat gun and scraper to it and in no time it was gone.

[Troublemaker427]

I can't seem to find "Peel & Seal" at Lowes. Does anyone know if it is still made and stocked there? I could only find the "bubble wrap" type insulation.

Figured I could share a tip with you guys that want to dynamat your vehicle.

Go to a Lowes and pick up a few rolls of a product called Peel n' Seal. Same stuff as basic dynamat for 1/2 the price. Double it up on your firewall and floorboards even use 3 layers if you really want and use a single layer on the roof/doors/back of cab. Then if you want to really go over kill, after you lay it, lay down some jute padding on the floor under the carpet or rubber mat. IF you dont have a lowes around, Go to home depot and get some heat duct insulation. Triple up on this, as it is not as thick and does not use a asphalt or butyl backing but more along the lines of a high density foam.

On all the seams use alumn. tape and all will be good. I've used this stuff a few times with great results.

Kind of random, but I'm redoing the interior on my 64 so it popped into mind to post this.

P.S. with the peel n seal, your floors and all dont have to be TOTALLY clean, jsut get em as good as you can. Don't have to be anal about it. Stuff sticks great and I have never had a problem with it releasing or lifting.

[Ford blue blood]

I've use a similar product from McMaster Carr. It is a hight temp mastic, comes in sheets 3' X 5' (I think thats the size) and it cost me 60 to do a 62 T-Bird and a 66 Falcon Ranchero. Floor and trunk in the Bird and floors in the Ranchero. It peals and sticks. Press with a roller and it is down hard! Put it on the floors in my 61 Uni, see the photos in the link in the for sale section (Lemon aid thread).

Forgot to add, you can make your own "Lizard skin". Go to a model airplane shop and ask them about the little ceramic balls they use to form curved surfaces and fill in the RC planes. Take the stuff and mix with latex paint (good latex) and spray with an undercoat gun. Need to have a good resperator when handling the ceramic as it is like powder. One bag (about quart size) mixed with two gallons of paint will do it. Fraction of the cost of skin. And yes it needs to go over a primer of some kind.

[effienut2]

I had a couple of Early Broncos a few years ago and I used a sticky-backed closed cell foam. I stuffed it in everywhere I could - inside the doors, pillar posts, side walls. Stuff worked great.

Since my source for this foam "dried up" I 've been using a jute pad with the aluminum foil on one side for the floors, roofs, back walls, doors. You will need a spray gun or aerosal upholstery glue. I much prefer to use a spray gun. I buy the glue from an auto upholstery shop. If you use this in the doors make sure the foil side is facing on the outside so water doesn't mess with it. I forgot the cost but it's a LOT cheaper than Dynamat and does a good job.

[Dakota Kids]

The Lizard Skin Rocks I have it on both sides of the cab floor and Firewall. It is Sandable so you can still have a smooth firewall. I sprayed it on the inside of the doors too. It is water based so it cleans up easy. I like the fact that it is only about a credit card in thickness so everything still fits.

[BlueGhost]

[albumimg]6894[/albumimg] [albumimg]6891[/albumimg] [albumimg]6890[/albumimg] [albumimg]6888[/albumimg]

Hello,

I purchased this insulation off of eBay. It came in 4ft x 10ft rolls, and 4ft x 50ft rolls. Including shipping, the price came out to $0.75 per square foot. I see at least 1 ad on eBay for authentic Dynamat, and it works out to $6.25 per square foot. Sounds like Dyna-Crack to me !!

The rolls I bought were not adhesive backed. I used the headliner spray glue, and it was great to work with. I sprayed the truck, and the material, lightly with glue, allowed to tack-dry, then rolled and pressed into shape. It was easily repositionable while working, and once you got it easily contoured and pressed into place, it was stuck firmly.

Here is a link to the vendor on eBay I used. I bought 200 sq ft for my cab, and used over 150 sq ft of it. It is so affordable, and so versatile, that it made more sense to buy extra than to cut corners and buy less. You would not figure on using 100+ sq ft in a cab, but stock up, and use it in the doors, behind the gas tank, and on the ceiling.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-x-50-E ... ccessories

I even threw out my nasty old firewall pad, and rather than spend $185 on a new ABS firewall pad, I doubled-up on this stuff, and I am going to cover it with headliner material. The old firewall cover made of tar paper and jute was probably not as efficient as the new technology we use now.

We used that same stuff off of ebay to cover my floor, roof, and firewall. The fire wall is almost triple covered, there is a layer of insulation, a layer of carpet that covers most of the firewall, and the fiberglass backed ABS cover.

[albumimg]5122[/albumimg]

I used edead, from Elemental Designs for the doors, kick panels, and behind the seat. Its another peal and stick one like dynamat, so it was easier to use inside tight places and over uneven surfaces. I overlapped and double layered it ever where I could.

Because of its construction, lots of closed cells, the ebay stuff is good for sound, heat, and resonance. The peal and stick stuff is mainly for resonance, it may knock back heat and exterior noise a little but not as well as the other product.

The combination of the two made a huge difference in both heat and noise inside my truck. The rear wall of the truck was awful about resonating without the gas tank in the cab. You could watch it move as you drove down the highway, it was like having a giant subwoofer stuck on one note. Once the deadener was added it went away. It even kept out most of my LOUD exhaust note, until we swapped heads and put in the AOD, I will be swapping mufflers soon to fix that. We just finished installing the stereo. With the doors closed and windows up you can barely here it outside of the cab.

[Max]

Hey Chad, are you going to Pate and/or in your Slick?

[BlueGhost]

Yes, I will be at Pate, and driving my Slick if all goes to plan. We've been really cranking on it over the last couple of months, trying to get it in shape for a long trip.

The exhaust drone really picked up lately, I think its mainly due to the drop in RPMs at highway speed with the AOD. So I'm going to have some new mufflers put on it before I take it on any long trips.

[Greg D]

The model aircraft product Ford Blue Blood is talking about are called "Micro Balloons". On models we mix them with epoxy when using it as a filler to lighten it. Definitely wear a mask when using them.

[blackagatha]

Definitely wear a mask when using them.[/color][/b][/quote]

oh jeez I bet.... Call that the "Balloon Lung"