I guess my only option is to run a smaller, aftermarket steering wheel, which Im not a fan of! I thought about a tilt column, but my truck is a 3 speed, column shift, and I love it. Iv had a few slicks and never had this problem, but looking back, all the ones I drove were 65s and 66s. Is the floor really that mutch higher in the straight axle trucks? Did my upholstery guy load me up with way too mutch foam? Did I really get thaaaat fat over the winter? AHHHHH! Cant anything go my way?
Got my seat from the upholstery shop, came with a new prob
-
choptopdoc
- Posts: 37
- Joined: January 18, 2010, 6:50 pm
- Location: tulsa ok
Got my seat from the upholstery shop, came with a new prob
So I got the seat for my newly aquired 64 back from my upholstery guy today. Im verry pleased with it, blue and white tuck and roll
When I put it in the truck, I realised right away I have a new problem. There is only about 5 inches between the seat and the bottom of the steering wheel. Im a pretty big guy, and needless to say, the steering wheel is in my lap
DAMNIT MAN!!
I guess my only option is to run a smaller, aftermarket steering wheel, which Im not a fan of! I thought about a tilt column, but my truck is a 3 speed, column shift, and I love it. Iv had a few slicks and never had this problem, but looking back, all the ones I drove were 65s and 66s. Is the floor really that mutch higher in the straight axle trucks? Did my upholstery guy load me up with way too mutch foam? Did I really get thaaaat fat over the winter? AHHHHH! Cant anything go my way?
I guess my only option is to run a smaller, aftermarket steering wheel, which Im not a fan of! I thought about a tilt column, but my truck is a 3 speed, column shift, and I love it. Iv had a few slicks and never had this problem, but looking back, all the ones I drove were 65s and 66s. Is the floor really that mutch higher in the straight axle trucks? Did my upholstery guy load me up with way too mutch foam? Did I really get thaaaat fat over the winter? AHHHHH! Cant anything go my way?
You aint gunna throw that away are ya?
- Alan Mclennan
- Posts: 9324
- Joined: October 14, 2006, 6:16 pm
- Location: In the shed... Cranebrook NSW

I had the same problem, firstly I cut the column down to get the wheel away from me a bit, bad move!, the smaller wheel is a bugger if you don't have power steering and now I`m putting a tilt column shift in from Flaming river it looks smick!
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.cfm/p ... prd113.htm
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.cfm/p ... prd113.htm
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
-
Gritsngumbo
- Posts: 5441
- Joined: August 4, 2007, 4:15 pm
- Location: Monroe, Louisiana

You might want to try taking the sliders (adjusters) off and just mount the brackets directly to the floor. It moves the seat down and back a bit. You loose the fore and aft adjustment but if you're the only driver you can locate it to fit you. Doesn't cost anything to try it. If you don't like it you can always put them back.
If you understand what you’re doing, you’re not learning anything.
LITTLE RED: 64 F100 Short Style
BIG RED: 62 F100 Long Uni
BIG “UN": 63 F250 Long Flare
BBW RED: 61 F100 CC BBW Long Uni
CRIMSON CREW: 63 F100 "Stageway" Long Flare Crew Cab
"RANGER": 66 F100 CC Long Flatbed
"AVA" 1963 Avion T-20 Travel Trailer
“Lucille” 1955 New Moon 44’ Travel Trailer
LITTLE RED: 64 F100 Short Style
BIG RED: 62 F100 Long Uni
BIG “UN": 63 F250 Long Flare
BBW RED: 61 F100 CC BBW Long Uni
CRIMSON CREW: 63 F100 "Stageway" Long Flare Crew Cab
"RANGER": 66 F100 CC Long Flatbed
"AVA" 1963 Avion T-20 Travel Trailer
“Lucille” 1955 New Moon 44’ Travel Trailer
- F7BIGJOB
- Posts: 1379
- Joined: March 14, 2010, 7:59 am
- Location: West Greenwich, Rhode Island & Providence Plantations

Alan Mclennan wrote:I had the same problem, firstly I cut the column down to get the wheel away from me a bit, bad move!, the smaller wheel is a bugger if you don't have power steering and now I`m putting a tilt column shift in from Flaming river it looks smick!
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.cfm/p ... prd113.htm
Alan, do you have to shift with your door open
F7BIGJOB
-Steve
1965 F-250 4x4 Flareside


-Steve
1965 F-250 4x4 Flareside


- Uncle Skip
- Posts: 4695
- Joined: July 15, 2006, 8:30 pm
- Location: Pearland, Texas

Doc.
I'm horizontally challenged too and I had the same issue.
The other guys have twin I-beam trucks so what they're suggesting won't work for you.
The 61-64's are different in that the steering shaft in integral with the steering box.
Only one way I know of to remediate your problem.
Take the steering box loose from the frame and elongate the holes so you can move it "up".
Leave the front hole as is to be your pivot point and open the other two to make a slot.
Use a compass [with the front hole as your arc point] to mark your arcs and then drill small holes along the arc.
Then gradually open them up to make your slot. Finish with a rat tail (round) file.
It doesn't take much, maybe about 3/8 of an inch.
Then, remove the column support under the dash and shorten it. Cut it across horizontally and take out what ever section you need and weld it back together.
The close off plate in the floorboard should already be big enough to take the adjustment, but you can trim it too if you need to.
The only problem you "might have" is that one wheel might turn further than the other one.
U@ss
I'm horizontally challenged too and I had the same issue.
The other guys have twin I-beam trucks so what they're suggesting won't work for you.
The 61-64's are different in that the steering shaft in integral with the steering box.
Only one way I know of to remediate your problem.
Take the steering box loose from the frame and elongate the holes so you can move it "up".
Leave the front hole as is to be your pivot point and open the other two to make a slot.
Use a compass [with the front hole as your arc point] to mark your arcs and then drill small holes along the arc.
Then gradually open them up to make your slot. Finish with a rat tail (round) file.
It doesn't take much, maybe about 3/8 of an inch.
Then, remove the column support under the dash and shorten it. Cut it across horizontally and take out what ever section you need and weld it back together.
The close off plate in the floorboard should already be big enough to take the adjustment, but you can trim it too if you need to.
The only problem you "might have" is that one wheel might turn further than the other one.
U@ss
I'm not arguing with you. I'm just explaining why I'm right.
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
-
Gritsngumbo
- Posts: 5441
- Joined: August 4, 2007, 4:15 pm
- Location: Monroe, Louisiana

Or, take the seat back and ask the upholsterer to remove the extra padding they installed.
If you understand what you’re doing, you’re not learning anything.
LITTLE RED: 64 F100 Short Style
BIG RED: 62 F100 Long Uni
BIG “UN": 63 F250 Long Flare
BBW RED: 61 F100 CC BBW Long Uni
CRIMSON CREW: 63 F100 "Stageway" Long Flare Crew Cab
"RANGER": 66 F100 CC Long Flatbed
"AVA" 1963 Avion T-20 Travel Trailer
“Lucille” 1955 New Moon 44’ Travel Trailer
LITTLE RED: 64 F100 Short Style
BIG RED: 62 F100 Long Uni
BIG “UN": 63 F250 Long Flare
BBW RED: 61 F100 CC BBW Long Uni
CRIMSON CREW: 63 F100 "Stageway" Long Flare Crew Cab
"RANGER": 66 F100 CC Long Flatbed
"AVA" 1963 Avion T-20 Travel Trailer
“Lucille” 1955 New Moon 44’ Travel Trailer
-
choptopdoc
- Posts: 37
- Joined: January 18, 2010, 6:50 pm
- Location: tulsa ok
- slickmainer
- Posts: 2555
- Joined: October 8, 2007, 6:41 pm
- Location: Auburn Maine
- Contact:

Using Skip's method you can have the same lock to lock simply by centering the box removing the pitman arm and reinstalling it straight down after you adjust the column. You can also go the route I did;
I bought and aftermarket wheel but I went with a Grant that is 14 3/4". It's not near as bad to drive with as a 10" wheel would be. I even run a wider tire on the front with it.
I bought and aftermarket wheel but I went with a Grant that is 14 3/4". It's not near as bad to drive with as a 10" wheel would be. I even run a wider tire on the front with it.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
-
Anthony
-
Gritsngumbo
- Posts: 5441
- Joined: August 4, 2007, 4:15 pm
- Location: Monroe, Louisiana

The nice thing about that approach is that it's easy to try and see if it works, then drill new floor holes and if you don't like it or if it doesn't' help your situation you can put it back.Anthony wrote:Removing the sliders sounded like a good idea to me... You can solid mount your seat to fit you and in the process, it should lower the seat to gain room between the wheel and seat... Sounds to me like the simplest and the easiest to try first... just my
If you understand what you’re doing, you’re not learning anything.
LITTLE RED: 64 F100 Short Style
BIG RED: 62 F100 Long Uni
BIG “UN": 63 F250 Long Flare
BBW RED: 61 F100 CC BBW Long Uni
CRIMSON CREW: 63 F100 "Stageway" Long Flare Crew Cab
"RANGER": 66 F100 CC Long Flatbed
"AVA" 1963 Avion T-20 Travel Trailer
“Lucille” 1955 New Moon 44’ Travel Trailer
LITTLE RED: 64 F100 Short Style
BIG RED: 62 F100 Long Uni
BIG “UN": 63 F250 Long Flare
BBW RED: 61 F100 CC BBW Long Uni
CRIMSON CREW: 63 F100 "Stageway" Long Flare Crew Cab
"RANGER": 66 F100 CC Long Flatbed
"AVA" 1963 Avion T-20 Travel Trailer
“Lucille” 1955 New Moon 44’ Travel Trailer
-
ICEMAN6166
- Posts: 11470
- Joined: July 11, 2006, 11:28 am
- Location: Dove Creek, Co. elevation 6842

i had one of those overstuffed seats in a bumpside.
im not horizontally challenged and it was still a pita.
the padding however was nice and comfy. a tilt wheel would have helped a bunch.
im not horizontally challenged and it was still a pita.
the padding however was nice and comfy. a tilt wheel would have helped a bunch.
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
- Alan Mclennan
- Posts: 9324
- Joined: October 14, 2006, 6:16 pm
- Location: In the shed... Cranebrook NSW

F7BIGJOB wrote:Alan Mclennan wrote:I had the same problem, firstly I cut the column down to get the wheel away from me a bit, bad move!, the smaller wheel is a bugger if you don't have power steering and now I`m putting a tilt column shift in from Flaming river it looks smick!
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.cfm/p ... prd113.htm
Alan, do you have to shift with your door open![]()
![]()
![]()
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
- Alan Mclennan
- Posts: 9324
- Joined: October 14, 2006, 6:16 pm
- Location: In the shed... Cranebrook NSW

Uncle Skip wrote:Doc.
I'm horizontally challenged too and I had the same issue.
The other guys have twin I-beam trucks so what they're suggesting won't work for you.
The 61-64's are different in that the steering shaft in integral with the steering box.
Only one way I know of to remediate your problem.
Take the steering box loose from the frame and elongate the holes so you can move it "up".
Leave the front hole as is to be your pivot point and open the other two to make a slot.
Use a compass [with the front hole as your arc point] to mark your arcs and then drill small holes along the arc.
Then gradually open them up to make your slot. Finish with a rat tail (round) file.
It doesn't take much, maybe about 3/8 of an inch.
Then, remove the column support under the dash and shorten it. Cut it across horizontally and take out what ever section you need and weld it back together.
The close off plate in the floorboard should already be big enough to take the adjustment, but you can trim it too if you need to.
The only problem you "might have" is that one wheel might turn further than the other one.
U@ss
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
-
*motor*mount*
- Posts: 1047
- Joined: April 6, 2010, 3:19 pm
- Location: louisiana
- Contact:

motormount
Take the seat back to them and tell them there is too much stuff in my seat.if you can take the whole truck to them and show them.
Jim H. Shiflet jr. my pictures are at photo bucket shifletjr is the name on the album. Click this link to see my pictures http://m815.photobucket.com/profile/shifletjr .also look at newest uploads and mobile uploads. 1964 costume cab and 2 ford f650 flat bed wreckers. and now a 2008 chrysler convertible
