T-5 Trans Options and Install?
T-5 Trans Options and Install?
Hey All, I have been checking on all of the different options of a T-5 install behind the 223 in my 61 F100. I recently drove it from South Carolina to Houston, Texas. Ran great! Averaged 14 to 15 mpg. But, I was doing about 55 mph the whole time. Kinda dangerous on todays highways! I read something about an S10 T-5 convesrion. Has anyone done this. I know it's considered Chevy. But, this is a daily driver and I don't really want to drop more than a Grand into the conversion! Plus the horsepower of this engine doesn't really warrant a World class T-5. All help is appreciated!
- charliemccraney
- Posts: 1743
- Joined: July 9, 2008, 10:02 pm
- Location: Lawrenceville, GA
The transmission is Tremec or I guess it will be Borg Warner depending on the year. Chevy just had them build a transmission to fit their engines.
What you actually do is swap an S10 tail housing onto the "Ford" transmission.
If you really want to save money, get a hold of a "Ford" T5 and see how well it will fit. The standard transmission fit fine in my '61 unibody. It's close but a shift handle with the right bend will work fine.
In this picture it's in 2nd, 4th, or reverse. Can't remember.

What you actually do is swap an S10 tail housing onto the "Ford" transmission.
If you really want to save money, get a hold of a "Ford" T5 and see how well it will fit. The standard transmission fit fine in my '61 unibody. It's close but a shift handle with the right bend will work fine.
In this picture it's in 2nd, 4th, or reverse. Can't remember.

Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
- Uncle Skip
- Posts: 4695
- Joined: July 15, 2006, 8:30 pm
- Location: Pearland, Texas

Kenny, aka 62 Galaxy, has done this installation and I'm sure he's glad to share the information. He drove his all the way from Houston to Slick Stock with no problems.
And the next time you're in Houston let us know. We'll try to meet up and get you some good grub with the club.
Uncle Skip
And the next time you're in Houston let us know. We'll try to meet up and get you some good grub with the club.
Uncle Skip
I'm not arguing with you. I'm just explaining why I'm right.
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
- charliemccraney
- Posts: 1743
- Joined: July 9, 2008, 10:02 pm
- Location: Lawrenceville, GA
'83-'93 mustang. The clutch depends a lot on the transmission - a steel bearing retainer will require a different setup than an aluminum bearing retainer. With the aluminum retainer, a new clutch disc and t.o. bearing reducing sleeve will be needed at minimum. With the steel retainer, a different t.o. bearing is required, as well as a different pressure plate and disc.
Kenny might know more, but I don't think a definitive clutch swap has been found.
Because of the variations mentioned above, there isn't really a kit. You can get a lot of the stuff from John Mummert.
Kenny might know more, but I don't think a definitive clutch swap has been found.
Because of the variations mentioned above, there isn't really a kit. You can get a lot of the stuff from John Mummert.
Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
What did you use on yours? did you adapt it to your bell housing yourself? I have seen guys do it them selves, I have access to a mill so I got that covered, I can weld, got that covered.. Just at a loss when it comes to knowing what clutch, throw out bearing, and such. Did yours require an hydraulic set-up or did you use your cable set-up, and if you don't mind what sort of budget does this require, saying a man does all the labor himself.. lots of questions but my truck is not drivable at the moment due to the trans, and its killing me that its not drivable...So I have to do this.... Ryan
If I did it again I would use mummerts throwout bearing adapter. It allows use of late model clutch and pressure plates. I made a bushing for the stock throwout bearing sleeve. I used a regular clutch disc for a later model ford with the stock pressure plate and it worked. I wasnt happy with the minimal engagement of the disc so I had one made. 61 to 64 truck disc are thicker than all others. more info.
http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.ph ... highlight=
http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.ph ... highlight=
1963 uni PATINA BLUE
1965 short bed
1965 short bed
- charliemccraney
- Posts: 1743
- Joined: July 9, 2008, 10:02 pm
- Location: Lawrenceville, GA
I'm using a clutch from the same year range Mustang. I have an aftermarket flywheel which is drilled for the Mustang pattern in addition to the stock pattern. I had my bellhousing modified by John Mummert. Kenny did his himself. I'm currently using the stock clutch linkage.
I think you could do it for about $600.00, the most expensive aspects being the acquisition of a good condition transmission and having the drive shaft shortened. If you get everything new, you can spend $2000+ on it.
I think you could do it for about $600.00, the most expensive aspects being the acquisition of a good condition transmission and having the drive shaft shortened. If you get everything new, you can spend $2000+ on it.
Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
Do not use 83-early 86 trans no matter what. You can get them cheap but there is a reason for it. In 86 the T5 trans were redesigned because of the high failure rate. The newer ones are known as WC or World Class. They are easy to ID as there is a different counter shaft bearing cup on the earlier ones. Hawkrod
Pictures from www.flatheadv8.org note that the upper picture bearing looks like a machined cover with a definite outer ring and the lower one looks more like a freeze plug.
World Class T5:

Regular low po T5:

Pictures from www.flatheadv8.org note that the upper picture bearing looks like a machined cover with a definite outer ring and the lower one looks more like a freeze plug.
World Class T5:

Regular low po T5:

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Gritsngumbo
- Posts: 5441
- Joined: August 4, 2007, 4:15 pm
- Location: Monroe, Louisiana

Ricbob16: Member Fred Martin (screen name: fmartin_gila) from Arizona put a T-5 behind a 223 "6" and it is a sweet setup. He drove in from Arizona to Iowa and back. I believe he used a later model T-5 (longer tailshaft) and a car-type adapter from John Mummert. Pretty much a bolt-in from what I understand. Shoot him a PM and I'm sure he will fill you in. He was planning on a trip out of the country, but not sure when.
If you understand what you’re doing, you’re not learning anything.
LITTLE RED: 64 F100 Short Style
BIG RED: 62 F100 Long Uni
BIG “UN": 63 F250 Long Flare
BBW RED: 61 F100 CC BBW Long Uni
CRIMSON CREW: 63 F100 "Stageway" Long Flare Crew Cab
"RANGER": 66 F100 CC Long Flatbed
"AVA" 1963 Avion T-20 Travel Trailer
“Lucille” 1955 New Moon 44’ Travel Trailer
LITTLE RED: 64 F100 Short Style
BIG RED: 62 F100 Long Uni
BIG “UN": 63 F250 Long Flare
BBW RED: 61 F100 CC BBW Long Uni
CRIMSON CREW: 63 F100 "Stageway" Long Flare Crew Cab
"RANGER": 66 F100 CC Long Flatbed
"AVA" 1963 Avion T-20 Travel Trailer
“Lucille” 1955 New Moon 44’ Travel Trailer
T-5 behind my 223!
Thanks for all the input. It is appreciated. I realized yesterday that I may as well go with a WC T-5 with the tailshaft modification from Modern Driveline. That way if or when the 223 fails (hopefully not anytime soon). I can just bolt it up to a modern fuel injected 5.0. It's going to get expensive. But, I figure it's worth it! Thanks again! Rick
- charliemccraney
- Posts: 1743
- Joined: July 9, 2008, 10:02 pm
- Location: Lawrenceville, GA
Re: T-5 behind my 223!
Make sure that is the case. For use with a Y block, the input pilot has to be shortened about 3/32". It might not be enough to be of any concern. And you can always make a spacer to sandwich between the trans and bell to move the transmission an adequate amount so that the transmission does not have to be altered.rickrob16 wrote:I realized yesterday that I may as well go with a WC T-5 with the tailshaft modification from Modern Driveline. That way if or when the 223 fails (hopefully not anytime soon). I can just bolt it up to a modern fuel injected 5.0.
Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
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fmartin_gila
- Posts: 1021
- Joined: April 21, 2007, 9:58 am
- Location: Mandurriao, Iloilo City, Philippines
To all, I am back in-country again, don't know how long though.
When I installed the T5 behind the 223, I used John Mummert's adapter setup because mine had a 3 spd in it. With using the adapter plate, you have to use the later T5 with the very long input shaft to compensate for the thickness of the adapter. Very easy modification. I left it the same as Charlie did with the stock shifter lower part and fabricated a upper lever with an offset of about 3 inches to clear the seat when in 2, 4, & R positions.
Fred
When I installed the T5 behind the 223, I used John Mummert's adapter setup because mine had a 3 spd in it. With using the adapter plate, you have to use the later T5 with the very long input shaft to compensate for the thickness of the adapter. Very easy modification. I left it the same as Charlie did with the stock shifter lower part and fabricated a upper lever with an offset of about 3 inches to clear the seat when in 2, 4, & R positions.
Fred
