Removing bed, front clip, and cab

[BigMike]

I actually did search but didn't find a write-up. Any threads you guys remember where it outlines the basic steps.

I'm a year away from actually doing it, but I'm a planner.

[slick4x4]

2 things that are very good to have.....
Cutting torch & a Hoist of some sort big enough to handle the bed and cab

[nolabama]

air hammer and good metal blade in sawzall (diablo is the sznit)- couple of cans of pb blaster

there was a good article in classic trucks about using a gantry crane from the harbor to remove the bed and cab - no luck on a link

I have seen a hoist used to move both however - I saw one cab removed by pushing up on the top with the hoist , I assume with a board or something to prevent a crease - dunno if that works or not

took a day and a half to remove the front clip - left the suspension in place for now

[f100jim]

Mike,here's a couple pics of my cab picker upper. a piece of angle iron on a Advance cherry picker. Also use the cp to pick up the bed with eyebolts in the bed bolt holes with chains and tailgate removed.[img][albumimg]8717[/albumimg][/img][albumimg]8716[/albumimg]

[Rusty 63]

Taking it apart in a year? Start soaking the nuts in oil now! LOL

[jwh f-100]

I drilled out my cab bolts. Very clean, safe, & easy.

http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4779

[DukeRoche]

Never taken off my cab but did remove my bed. Used an air hammer and chisel to take off the top of the bolt. This worked but I highly recommend a small air grinder to grind off the bolt from under the bed. Not only was the air hammer and chisel time consuming, its hell on the hands and ears. Just my

[Jonas]

Mike, I think that truck will unbolt without alot of problems. I just pulled the bed on my 66 a couple months ago. I was able get all the bolts out no problem. The bed of your truck was off a couple years ago for painting.

If you look under Mike's truck there is very little if any rust on the frame. Core Support is original and 100% rust free, to give you an idea of condition.

Bed is easy eight bolts and disconnect wireing. You will need four guys to remove long bed. I would remove the rear bumper first. Makes it easier to walk it off the back of the truck.

Front Clip will come off in one nice piece. Two bollts up front, mounting the core support to the frame. Then four or five bolts on each side at the fire wall. Keep track of the shims at the firewall. And mark bolt positions, for alignment when you put it back together.

Cab- Four Cab Mount bolts. Steering Column, wring etc,

It's not huge deal

[Jonas]

I have not tried this yet but it is interesting. Search it on the web a little for more info.

BenBeenBanned@VWVortex said:

Some of you might appreciate this. Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.

They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

Penetrating oil ..... Average load

None ...................... 516 pounds

WD-40 ................... 238 pounds

PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench ......... 127 pounds

Kano Kroil .............. 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix.......53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

[Brian Taylor]

Once done you will realize it is not too bad. As all said clean the bolts and threads prior to removal. Wire wheel or brush all the treads you can reach and then soak with PB.
Do mark all shims and bolt positions on all parts it will get you in the ballpark with alignment on re assembly. Bag and clean all bolts in sets, I was real impressed by Rusteze for cleaning them they look new. I bought the set of manuals for my 66 and it shows all mount points and a lot more, a set would be a good investment.
Most important is you need more room and money, but don't we all.

[Greg D]

GM through the dealers has a penetrating oil with an acid in it to dissolve the rust. Seems to work pretty well.
Saw some stuff at the parts store (CRC Brand?) that is supposed to "freeze" the rust so it flakes off - I haven't tried it yet.
Taking the front clip off in one piece has the advantage of better access to the bolts to get it apart. Taking it apart one piece at a time has the advantage of the pieces remaining stable while you fight the bolts.

[BigMike]

Thanks everyone.

Jonas, you insprire confidence my friend. I've done this same thing back in the day when I helped a good friend restore his '56 Chevy truck.

My main concern is removal of the front clip and getting it back together and aligned properly. What to set it on when it is off of the truck so nothing gets torn up or bent. Stuff like that.

Everything is in the planning stage for the future and I love learning about these Slicks. Who knows, I might just keep driving it the way it is for years with that silly grin on my face.

[64 f100]

Interesting on the rust removal list. However, I've used several of the things mentioned and disagree with the liquid wrench being better than PB Blaster. Since we don't know all the paramaters of the test nor age of the rust etc. It is hard to justify the numbers. As anyone knows, you can have each of the bolts on the bed break loose at different amounts of resistance. I find a nut splitter or just a plain old hotwrench works wonders. I will throw the nut away as a general rule anyway, and quite likely the bolt also. Although, after examination I have been known to reuse these. It is hard to find a good quality replacement, what with the advent of cheap overseas low qaulity mild steal.

Rich

[64 f100]

I meant to mention the cabs are heavy towards the front and it is important to take this into account when removing one. It is also important to remmember that the structure over the door is not that sturdy, and if lifting from the top, you should take some car to reinforce that area to keep from damaging the cab. Take the time to make sure the load isn't concentrated in one spot. I just bought a cab tath someone took off the wrong way. Beautifual cab that was restored about 6 years before he took it off. He did exactly what was wrong and damaged the roof area above the door. I will now have to restore that area, back to what it should be. Luckily it isn't to bad, and will fix nicley with some work. It's just sad that it will take two or three days work to fix something that didn't need fixing. The was some discussion of removing a cab with a cherry picker for engine removal. This can be done, but it has to be done with some work and preperations. Just think it thru.

Rich

[Michelle]

I know many on this board have seen this picture before, but since Mike is new I will post it again for him. This is a very easy and safe way to remove and to replace your cab.

[Brian Taylor]

Michelle you are so spoiled

[f100jim]

Top notch, Michelle Probably the lifting points used in initial assembly at the factory.

[BigMike]

Thanks for the picture Michelle. I used to have access to all kinds of equipment like that.

How much does an F250 cab weigh?

[Michelle]

Thanks for the picture Michelle. I used to have access to all kinds of equipment like that.

How much does an F250 cab weigh?

The 250 cab is the same weight as the F100 cab, probably about 400 pounds.

[Uncle Skip]

Mike. I just posted in the hints and tricks if you're interested.
U@ss