Only starts by jumping solenoid

[Kellxr7]

Just started happening lately, I go to fire it up and it grinds as though the battery almost dead or battery cable loose. So I actually replaced them because it was time anyway. and checked the battery, it is healthy and has lots of power. I then replaced the fender mounted solenoid & made sure it had a solid ground. Made no difference. If the truck is cold it will just grind when I try to start it with the key, so I jump it at the solenoid & it oddly cranks over very slow but will start. If I drive til it reaches normal operating temp & shut it off & turn the key immediatly 1/2 the time it WILL start without effort, but sometimes will still have to jump solenoid to start. I just assumed it was a bad ground somewhere, but I dont know what other grounds to check, any ideas? (truck is a '66 with a 302)

[wheels]

It sounds like you may have a short in the starter. Just my 2 cents.

[DukeRoche]

When I first got my Slick it wouldn't turn over at all. I hooked battery cables up to it from my F150 and the engine in my Slick began to turn without either truck being on. Kinda spooky actually. Once I replaced the starter solenoid it turned over without any problems. Maybe that needs to be replaced?

[LM14]

My '57 did the same thing. It was the ground between the frame/body and motor. I took another battery cable and grounded the firewall (same bolt the battery "-" goes to) and took it to the block. Starts great now.

Hope that helps,
SPark

[Uncle Skip]

Kell.
You probably have a worn out starter bushing that is making the armature drag.
Replace the starter.
If you keep running it the way you are, you risk starting a wiring fire.U@ss

[Kellxr7]

well Im a little POd, embarassed and frustrated ...but relieved, I did figure out the problem..
The Optima battery was the problem all along, which doesnt make sense to me because my battery charger said the battery was @ 80% I cant remember how much juice was flowing thru it but I will check again (I also had it tested a while back when I was having an unrelated electrical problem with the lights & shop said it was fine) but I will say that is the last Optima battery I will ever buy, its been my 3rd (not in same vehicle) and I have always had problems with them.
Seeing as I was confident the battery was fine I tested the solenoid, removed the starter and tested it directly on the battery then for the hell of it tested it on my daily driver & it spun like its supposed to.
..I guess the good that came out of it was I know my starter is good & with it removed I finally could see the casting # on the block & found out its 302 is a 74 & every single ground/connection are spotless and tight

...anyone have any input on why this Optima battery comes up as fine when being tested but still caused these issues? Its just over a year old & was a replacement for my last optima that wouldnt hold a charge..... which was a replacement for my first Optima.

[fire truck]

I have a 10 year old optima in one of my trucks, still kickin... i had some in my 03, but had two pairs go bad and sold the new ones. they got bought out and now the ones the new company builds in mexico aren't worth snit

[ebentraywick]

pull the starter out take the back housing plate off u have fields and sounds like your main hot lead going out the side of the housing is tuching the housing theres a ruber gasket/washer that gets worn out. and y your all ready there grease up your drive shaft and check your brushes! see if theres any hot spots are your armature!