voltage regulator hell

HillBillyF100 · Post by **HillBillyF100** » May 30, 2011, 2:04 pm

ok. so apparantly I have a charging draw...and I need help..Here's the story..first got the truck started, got a new batt..went back out there a week later and the batt was dead..charged it and checked the voltage 3 times a day..I could see it dropping each time I checked..so, I thought the voltage regulator was shorted..so I got a new one and just now got to the point where I was gonna road test the truck..put the new regulator on checked to ensure that all the wires are goign to the right spot, started the truck, and all was great..was getting good voltage 13-14 volts at my batt while running, and steady 12 v when key was off..thought all was good, until I went out there last night..the batt is completely dead...I disconnected the harness again and traced my wires..other than just being 40+ years old, they seem fine..I do plan on getting a new complete wiring kit before it becomes a daily driver, but in the mean time I need to figure this out...any thoughts as to what might be causing a draw on batt? No wires are grounded that I can tell, (except the actual ground wire)
thanks for the input

cdherman · Post by **cdherman** » May 30, 2011, 3:38 pm

Well, these can be h@ll....

There are some circuits that remain hot, even with the switch off, and off the top of my head, I cannot remember which ones they are. That would be where your money is, I 'd guess.

Now, if you plan to get rid of that wiring harness anyhow, eventually, my advice would be to get a battery disconnect and just resign yourself to popping the hood at the end of each day and disconnecting the battery.

Its not like your clock is going to always lose its time!!!

I would also wonder about your charging..... 13-14 actually sounds a little low. I'd suspect that the alt is also not behaving properly, but that's really just off the top of my head...

Good luck.....

Brian Taylor · Post by **Brian Taylor** » May 30, 2011, 4:08 pm

If you have an amp meter put it on and check for draw. Unplug things till the draw goes away.
Also, does your horn work? If not it may be shorted out, I have had that be my silent killer before.
If you need help chasing it give me a call and I will come up and shoot the short with you anytime.
BT

cooter · Post by **cooter** » May 30, 2011, 6:42 pm

pull all fuses and check for a draw, if no draw is present then put fuses back in till the draw returns

banjopicker66 · Post by **banjopicker66** » May 31, 2011, 8:21 am

Here is a simple check for a draw.
Next time you go to the boneyard, get a side marker or tail-light socket and bulb out of a junker. Be sure to get at least 6 inches of wire for each of the 2 leads. You will use this bulb to check for voltage. This is a cheap and quick current tester.
Before you start testing, touch the leads to both poles of the battery - it doesn't matter which wire goes to which, you just want current to flow through the bulb to check it is actually working. (If the bulb doesn't light or even glow, then check the socket connections, wire connections, the battery has at least a little juice, etc.)
Next, remove the negative battery cable from the battery post.
Be sure the key is off, and nothing else is on.
Now touch one test light wire to the battery post, and one to the negative battery cable clamp. This puts the current tester in between the battery and the wiring harness.
If it lights up, you have discovered a current draw, one that probably shouldn't be there.
You may want to check it in the dark too, to make sure daylight is not obscuring a faint glow, which can occur with a very small current draw.

I can suggest some steps to isolate the harness with the current draw.

HillBillyF100 · Post by **HillBillyF100** » May 31, 2011, 9:35 am

banjopicker66 wrote:Here is a simple check for a draw.
Next time you go to the boneyard, get a side marker or tail-light socket and bulb out of a junker. Be sure to get at least 6 inches of wire for each of the 2 leads. You will use this bulb to check for voltage. This is a cheap and quick current tester.
Before you start testing, touch the leads to both poles of the battery - it doesn't matter which wire goes to which, you just want current to flow through the bulb to check it is actually working. (If the bulb doesn't light or even glow, then check the socket connections, wire connections, the battery has at least a little juice, etc.)
Next, remove the negative battery cable from the battery post.
Be sure the key is off, and nothing else is on.
Now touch one test light wire to the battery post, and one to the negative battery cable clamp. This puts the current tester in between the battery and the wiring harness.
If it lights up, you have discovered a current draw, one that probably shouldn't be there.
You may want to check it in the dark too, to make sure daylight is not obscuring a faint glow, which can occur with a very small current draw.

I can suggest some steps to isolate the harness with the current draw.

Banjo, that is a great DIY draw finding tool...I'll have to remember that one...

These are all good suggestions...the horn does not work, so I'll check that as well..And right now, I am still in the "refreshing" stage, so I am just unplugging it when I park it!

@Brian, I am actually about to start the Jag IFS swap, so if you wanna partake in that "fun", then let me know..

Leeroy · Post by **Leeroy** » May 31, 2011, 6:23 pm

Just a quick thought, you haven't recently installed a radio or anything? I've seen the switched/hot wires mixed up many times before so the radio ends up being always 'on' and flattens the battery.

HillBillyF100 · Post by **HillBillyF100** » May 31, 2011, 11:23 pm

Leeroy wrote:Just a quick thought, you haven't recently installed a radio or anything? I've seen the switched/hot wires mixed up many times before so the radio ends up being always 'on' and flattens the battery.

Nope, haven't hooked anything up new like that...(unless the voltage regulator) I'm pretty far from that point still...