460 with Edelbrock Carb
460 with Edelbrock Carb
Hey Guys,
This question may be only for you with 460's but maybe anybody can chime in. I'm not familiar with carbs and linkages and so forth, but does anybody have a picture of the carb hooked up to the kickdown and throttle. I got the new carb and don't know if I need more parts. I got a short nipple with a bolt and don't know if I need to use my old linkage or not. Don't know if I need a spring also. Oh yeah, its an Edelbrock Performer 600 cfm.
Thanks for the help. Pictures would be great if possible.
This question may be only for you with 460's but maybe anybody can chime in. I'm not familiar with carbs and linkages and so forth, but does anybody have a picture of the carb hooked up to the kickdown and throttle. I got the new carb and don't know if I need more parts. I got a short nipple with a bolt and don't know if I need to use my old linkage or not. Don't know if I need a spring also. Oh yeah, its an Edelbrock Performer 600 cfm.
Thanks for the help. Pictures would be great if possible.
- banjopicker66
- Posts: 1488
- Joined: July 17, 2006, 1:59 pm
- Location: Middlesboro, KY
Use your original throttle cable for the 352 V8. The linkage for the 300 6 might work, but it is longer and might not work due to binding.
You will need to fabricate a throttle cable stand that bolts to the intake and holds the throttle cable in place. I used the upper half of the FE type, and the lower half of the 385 type, and bolted them together.
You need the FE type, upper half because it is designed to hold the '65/'66 throttle cable, but the lower portion will not bolt to the 385 intake. Wrong bolt pattern.
You need the 385 type linkage stand, lower half, to bolt to the 385 intake, but the upper part won't work with the throttle cable.
The 385 original stand uses linkage, not cables, by the way. That's why it will not work in original configuration with the '66 cable.
This is really easy, and it is how I did it on my Edelbrock sitting on my 460.
I'll try to get a picture later.
By the way, if you have a C6 transmission, you will need to get the adapter kit from Edelbrock to install the kickdown rod.
You will need to fabricate a throttle cable stand that bolts to the intake and holds the throttle cable in place. I used the upper half of the FE type, and the lower half of the 385 type, and bolted them together.
You need the FE type, upper half because it is designed to hold the '65/'66 throttle cable, but the lower portion will not bolt to the 385 intake. Wrong bolt pattern.
You need the 385 type linkage stand, lower half, to bolt to the 385 intake, but the upper part won't work with the throttle cable.
The 385 original stand uses linkage, not cables, by the way. That's why it will not work in original configuration with the '66 cable.
This is really easy, and it is how I did it on my Edelbrock sitting on my 460.
I'll try to get a picture later.
By the way, if you have a C6 transmission, you will need to get the adapter kit from Edelbrock to install the kickdown rod.
- banjopicker66
- Posts: 1488
- Joined: July 17, 2006, 1:59 pm
- Location: Middlesboro, KY
I also added a spring underneath to return the throttle plates - but I don't know if I still need it or not.
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Banjo,
Told you I would have questions... lol
I put the adaptor in and in the picture below, you have a screw with a spring installed. The adaptor instructions don't show to install this but it did come with an extra screw and spring just like you have circled. Am I suppose to put this in? What is it for?
Told you I would have questions... lol
I put the adaptor in and in the picture below, you have a screw with a spring installed. The adaptor instructions don't show to install this but it did come with an extra screw and spring just like you have circled. Am I suppose to put this in? What is it for?
- banjopicker66
- Posts: 1488
- Joined: July 17, 2006, 1:59 pm
- Location: Middlesboro, KY
All of that is for the kickdown rod - notice it is held on right there at the larger spring.
The screw you have circled is a kickdown adjustment screw. It adjusts the travel of the kickdown rod relative to the throttle levers, to actuate the kickdown earlier or later.
To make the kickdown kick in earlier, screw it in, or towards the front of the carb.
To make it initiate later, unscrew that adjustment screw. The longer spring is there to keep the kickdown lever pulled back, and to provide a bit of felt resistance to the foot, to give the driver an indication that the kickdown is close to actuating.
The screw you have circled is a kickdown adjustment screw. It adjusts the travel of the kickdown rod relative to the throttle levers, to actuate the kickdown earlier or later.
To make the kickdown kick in earlier, screw it in, or towards the front of the carb.
To make it initiate later, unscrew that adjustment screw. The longer spring is there to keep the kickdown lever pulled back, and to provide a bit of felt resistance to the foot, to give the driver an indication that the kickdown is close to actuating.
- banjopicker66
- Posts: 1488
- Joined: July 17, 2006, 1:59 pm
- Location: Middlesboro, KY
Banjo,
Thanks a lot for the help.. I really do appreciate it and I guarantee I will do the same for the next rookie that needs help because of you.
On another subject, what headers did you use because I have read I can't use the stock headers due to clearance? Is that true? I haven't tried putting them on yet...
Thanks a lot for the help.. I really do appreciate it and I guarantee I will do the same for the next rookie that needs help because of you.
On another subject, what headers did you use because I have read I can't use the stock headers due to clearance? Is that true? I haven't tried putting them on yet...
- banjopicker66
- Posts: 1488
- Joined: July 17, 2006, 1:59 pm
- Location: Middlesboro, KY
No headers.
Stock manifolds, from a 1980s and later truck. Plugs came with them to fill the injection holes, but my research showed they flow almost as good as headers, and the extra header cost plus the aggravation of replacing starters didn't make it worth it in my estimation.
That plus 3" pipes and dual Flowmasters.
Stock manifolds, from a 1980s and later truck. Plugs came with them to fill the injection holes, but my research showed they flow almost as good as headers, and the extra header cost plus the aggravation of replacing starters didn't make it worth it in my estimation.
That plus 3" pipes and dual Flowmasters.
So will this not work:banjopicker66 wrote:Use your original throttle cable for the 352 V8. The linkage for the 300 6 might work, but it is longer and might not work due to binding.
You will need to fabricate a throttle cable stand that bolts to the intake and holds the throttle cable in place. I used the upper half of the FE type, and the lower half of the 385 type, and bolted them together.
You need the FE type, upper half because it is designed to hold the '65/'66 throttle cable, but the lower portion will not bolt to the 385 intake. Wrong bolt pattern.
You need the 385 type linkage stand, lower half, to bolt to the 385 intake, but the upper part won't work with the throttle cable.
The 385 original stand uses linkage, not cables, by the way. That's why it will not work in original configuration with the '66 cable.
This is really easy, and it is how I did it on my Edelbrock sitting on my 460.
I'll try to get a picture later.
By the way, if you have a C6 transmission, you will need to get the adapter kit from Edelbrock to install the kickdown rod.
I just drilled out the holes bigger on the bracket from the FE motor...
- banjopicker66
- Posts: 1488
- Joined: July 17, 2006, 1:59 pm
- Location: Middlesboro, KY
- banjopicker66
- Posts: 1488
- Joined: July 17, 2006, 1:59 pm
- Location: Middlesboro, KY
Looks like you may have a better idea!Santi wrote:
So will this not work:
I just drilled out the holes bigger on the bracket from the FE motor...
But now that I look at it, I also seem to remember that the FE throttle bracket sat too low and the cable needed to be higher.
Try it and see if what you have works, though.
- banjopicker66
- Posts: 1488
- Joined: July 17, 2006, 1:59 pm
- Location: Middlesboro, KY
Santi, I didn't use headers, just the stock manifolds. My research indicated only a slight increase in performance, and I am not looking for performance.
Since the front end of the '65-'79 trucks is dimensionally the same, you could probably use headers for a '73 - '79 truck with a 460.
I don't recall what year your truck is, so if it is a '64 or earlier, that advice can't apply.
Since the front end of the '65-'79 trucks is dimensionally the same, you could probably use headers for a '73 - '79 truck with a 460.
I don't recall what year your truck is, so if it is a '64 or earlier, that advice can't apply.
- Roger Carter
- Posts: 730
- Joined: July 5, 2008, 7:11 pm
- Location: Corbett, Oregon
I use Hedman headers for a '74-'79 F-series with a 460. The fit the '65-'66 chassis without interference, providing you use the '74-'79 F-series frame stands and motor mounts.Santi wrote:Banjo,
Do you know what year of headers will fit my motor from a truck? Is there something special I should look for? Right now I will get used ones until I can afford higher quality ones. I'm just looking to get this motor started for now.
Thanks
Here are a couple pics of the Hedman Elites in a '66 chassis with the 460 installed using Ford mounts.
[albumimg]8694[/albumimg] [albumimg]8693[/albumimg]
[albumimg]8692[/albumimg]
Hope this helps.
Roger Carter
- Roger Carter
- Posts: 730
- Joined: July 5, 2008, 7:11 pm
- Location: Corbett, Oregon