64 F-100 lowering question
64 F-100 lowering question
hi everyone i hope im posting in the right section id really like to lower my 64 im building but i dont really want to get into c notching the frame seems like may be alot of work maybe not how much clarence do i need for suspension travel if i move the front spindle and the back housings on top of the leaf springs or whats the best way to do it
- Uncle Skip
- Posts: 4695
- Joined: July 15, 2006, 8:30 pm
- Location: Pearland, Texas

Tiny.
There ain't nothing easy about dropping a truck down in the weeds, but unless you want to go with an IRS conversion of some kind (Fat Man or the Dakota swap) you can get a professionally dropped front axle from Nostalgia Sid that will make that end of your life a lot easier.
The rear is more complicated, depending on how low you're trying to go. If you're really going to slam the back this is probably what you're going to have to deal with.
This is Daryl Davis's truck.
A spring flip gives you this much clearance. Not enough.
[albumimg]8966[/albumimg]
Notched frame gives you about 8" of travel which should be fine, but he still has to deal with mounting the shocks.
[albumimg]9203[/albumimg]
I need to get some updated photos because he's pretty much finished the rear of this project and it looks really good. Just a killer amount of work.
Good luck.
There ain't nothing easy about dropping a truck down in the weeds, but unless you want to go with an IRS conversion of some kind (Fat Man or the Dakota swap) you can get a professionally dropped front axle from Nostalgia Sid that will make that end of your life a lot easier.
The rear is more complicated, depending on how low you're trying to go. If you're really going to slam the back this is probably what you're going to have to deal with.
This is Daryl Davis's truck.
A spring flip gives you this much clearance. Not enough.
[albumimg]8966[/albumimg]
Notched frame gives you about 8" of travel which should be fine, but he still has to deal with mounting the shocks.
[albumimg]9203[/albumimg]
I need to get some updated photos because he's pretty much finished the rear of this project and it looks really good. Just a killer amount of work.
Good luck.
- Uncle Skip
- Posts: 4695
- Joined: July 15, 2006, 8:30 pm
- Location: Pearland, Texas

Tiny, Skip has a good points, as always.
I am taking on the axle flip and small C notch similar to Daryl's. In fact, I will be using a set of pipe halves I got from him and it will probably look very much like his.
As Skip said, it not the easiest thing to do. There are a lot of things to take into consideration, like pinion angle toward trans when flipped, notching, shocks mounting, creating new plates for the U bolts, etc.
Doing this also requires some special fabrication skills. Not only for the planning, but for the welding, cutting and cleanup. Not to mention access to the tools and equipment needed. Fortunately for me, I was able get a lot of this stuff before the economy down turn and when I built a custom chopper ( sold because of economy).
You can look into some mono rear springs, but you are looking at around 4 to 5 hundred dollars.
So you have options, if you have the skills or money and maybe both, it could be possible.
But again, Skip is right with his comments.

I am taking on the axle flip and small C notch similar to Daryl's. In fact, I will be using a set of pipe halves I got from him and it will probably look very much like his.
As Skip said, it not the easiest thing to do. There are a lot of things to take into consideration, like pinion angle toward trans when flipped, notching, shocks mounting, creating new plates for the U bolts, etc.
Doing this also requires some special fabrication skills. Not only for the planning, but for the welding, cutting and cleanup. Not to mention access to the tools and equipment needed. Fortunately for me, I was able get a lot of this stuff before the economy down turn and when I built a custom chopper ( sold because of economy).
You can look into some mono rear springs, but you are looking at around 4 to 5 hundred dollars.
So you have options, if you have the skills or money and maybe both, it could be possible.
But again, Skip is right with his comments.
1964 F100, 292ci
1963 Buick Wildcat, 401ci
They just don't make them like they used to.
1963 Buick Wildcat, 401ci
They just don't make them like they used to.
Throw enough time and money at something and anythings possible. If you don't have the skills or tools you may find someone nearby who can teach you, or has the equipment.
All my tools are hammers except screwdrivers, those are chisels.
1966 F-100 2WD
351 Cleveland **no its not a 351M**
C4 trans
3.50 rear end
1966 F-100 2WD
351 Cleveland **no its not a 351M**
C4 trans
3.50 rear end
1964 F 250 converted to an F 100;
Reverse eye mono leafs on the front - stock F 250 springs with leafs removed rear;
More pics in my build thread - link in my signature.

Reverse eye mono leafs on the front - stock F 250 springs with leafs removed rear;
More pics in my build thread - link in my signature.

1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
- charliemccraney
- Posts: 1743
- Joined: July 9, 2008, 10:02 pm
- Location: Lawrenceville, GA
I know it's not right, but you can get by if you ensure that a rubber snubber is in place to prevent the axle from hitting the frame. I know several people running around like that until they can afford to notch the frame. You have to keep an eye on the snubber because it will wear out quickly in this case.
Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
- ezernut9mm
- Posts: 9141
- Joined: July 21, 2006, 9:37 pm
- Location: KCMO

it's not long enough and won't you much if any drop. i can't remember now why i didn't do on my 61. i know the front hanger for the rear spring is a different design than the 65 and up hanger.
i think that flipping it would create a bind because it is shorter and won't allow any spring travel.
i think that flipping it would create a bind because it is shorter and won't allow any spring travel.
always
"i believe i've achieved satisfaction".-bubbles
"should i be gettin" baked for this boys?"-bubbles
i could no longer keep "r.i.p.ing" all of our fallen brothers and sisters, so i say here, slick loads of love and much respect to all you beautiful people.
"i believe i've achieved satisfaction".-bubbles
"should i be gettin" baked for this boys?"-bubbles
i could no longer keep "r.i.p.ing" all of our fallen brothers and sisters, so i say here, slick loads of love and much respect to all you beautiful people.
thank you everyone i beleive im going to let it alone im pretty good with doing stuff like that and have plenty of tools but im so far into this thing now it will save me a bunch just by letting it like it is i sure do appreciate all the feedback seems like a grat bunch of guy's on here thank you all so much
-
okiewelder
- Posts: 17
- Joined: July 5, 2011, 7:45 am
Rims on truck
Hey Greg D, what are those rims? they look good on that truck!!
