Voltage Regulator Click

[DSTdrummer]

So battery hasn't been staying charged, and the battery is good. I check after full charge, showed eh, 12.6ish. Checked with truck running, only read around 12.8 range. I have no idea the history on this engine, so I just replaced the alternator yesterday. Retest show about same results. It does go up when RPM increases. Today, I drove to work, went to the gas station after work, barely tuned over after fueling but I got it started. Got home, shut it off and it restarted only once, then dead. Meter read 12.1. While checking all connections, I noticed the hot wire to the alternator had flopped over on the exhaust manifold and burned/rubbed through the coating and frayed the wire. Bad news but I can fix it.
As I was dealing with that issue I noticed for the first time, that the voltage regulator would click when I hook the battery back up. One click as soon as both sides are hooked up.
I'm not much on wiring but I'm learning. What's the deal with that? Does that mean there is something drawing on a constant hot? Why would it just now start or did I just never notice it? Any insight would be great.
Thanks
Donnie

[bruceandersson]

The regulator may be your problem as you should read 14v+ when charging at the battery.

[DSTdrummer]

I know. The question is why it clicks.

[DSTdrummer]

Maybe it's the alternator regulator. I'll check when I get home. They're separate right?

[ICEMAN6166]

it clicks because there is a draw somewhere, the clicking noise is the closing of the points inside the regulator.

[Toyz]

If it still clicks after fixing the battery wire, chances are you have damaged the alternator. If I understood correctly, the truck would not turn over, but showed twelve volts. That sounds as if you had a bad connection at that time. With a shorted wire, it is not surprising that charging voltage showed low..
Paul

[DSTdrummer]

it clicks because there is a draw somewhere, the clicking noise is the closing of the points inside the regulator.

thats what I was wondering. Thank you.

If I understood correctly, the truck would not turn over, but showed twelve volts. That sounds as if you had a bad connection at that time.

Maybe. It did turn over but very slow. First time, at the gas station, it turned over enough to start. I took it all back off, checked connections, accessed the positive wire situation and removed the battery. I'll fix the cable and hook everything back up today or 2MRO and check it out.
Donnie

[ICEMAN6166]

Maybe it's the alternator regulator. I'll check when I get home. They're separate right?

you should only have 1 voltage reg either internal in the alt or external

[DSTdrummer]

you should only have 1 voltage reg either internal in the alt or external

K. The box that's clicking says alternator regulator on it I'm pretty sure. I'll check it out in a few.

[DSTdrummer]

Yeah. I have a box labeled alternator regulator, and a small deal next to it with three wires on it.
After getting all the wires cut down, I seems as though it was multiple alternator wires involved in the meltdown. I'll get them fixed up and report back. Thanks for the help.
Donnie

[ezernut9mm]

the little box with three wires is the horn relay.

[DSTdrummer]

Ooooohh. I do as much research as I can before posting and I saw pics of a voltage regulator that looked similar.
Thanks
Donnie

[DSTdrummer]

Still clicks. It's real irritating. I'm pretty sure the alternator is hooked up right. Hot, ground, white with black stripe STA, white FLD. I dunno. Time to troubleshoot.

[Toyz]

Disconnect the alternator wiring; see if click goes away.
Paul

[ICEMAN6166]

its also possible your ignition switch is messed up.

[DSTdrummer]

Disconnecting Stator wire, click stops. Interestingly enough, my gauges are no longer switched with the key.

[DSTdrummer]

The ignition switch has been wonky since I bought it. Sometimes had to wiggle it to get blower motor, wipers and gauges to work. But that hasn't change with the exception of the gauges.

[Toyz]

Disconnecting Stator wire, click stops. Interestingly enough, my gauges are no longer switched with the key.

You either still have a burned wire that is shorting to an ignition switched circuit, or have something rewired wrong. Sounds like the alternator is toast! I suspected the direct short had knocked out at least an alternator diode, maybe other parts as well. I would definitely change out the switch, and test all other circuits before replacing the alternator, just to prevent a possible recurrance.
All my suggestions are based on everything being as originally equipped; if you have added or upgraded (alternator, ignition, stereo, etc.; let us know so something isn't missed.
Paul

[DSTdrummer]

I haven't added anything and I can't see that anyone else has either. No radio at all. I'll be doing some sluthing this weekend. I figure the alternator may be fried. I was testing it with the meter and it was fluctuating a lot. Showing as low as 12.4, 12.6 and as high as 13.95ish all while running. Never made it to 14. Maybe I'll have the new one and the old one checked just to see what's up. I took a pic before disassembling so I know it was hooked up right.

[totten]

Have the alt. checked at advance auto parts and buy new voltage regulator,they are cheap. Ck regulator plug, may be loose connections in plug. If so cut off plug and install new ends. Tony