Chrome bumper question

[Uncle Skip]

Can bumpers be de-chromed enough to accept paint?
I'm wondering about the nickle finish they put on as a base for the actual chrome. Nickle is really hard and slick.
Anyone have any experience with that?

[longcabjohn]

Any place that can chrome can unchrome, they dip in chemical.


Johnny

[Alan Mclennan]

Johnny is correct, they also reverse the polarity which takes the chrome off, leaving the metal bare, as I`ve been led to believe!

[slick4x4]

Sand blasting ?
Sure will take chrome off a set of wheels driving down dirt roads

[Uncle Skip]

What about the layer of nickel that the chromers lay down as a surface for the chrome?
That stuff is hard and slick (sic).
I'm wondering how you'd scuff that hard surface and/ or if you would have to use a special primer to get the paint to stick.

[Toyz]

I would just blast to an acceptable surface, then epoxy prime in normal manner. I have had poor luck powder coating on daily drivers due to chipping. I try to minimize coating build-up for that reason, so that requires special attention to any repairs, welded or otherwise.

[LM14]

Take it to a plater's shop, they reverse the polarity and the chrome falls off as mentioned above, same for nickel and copper coats. You will get it back as bare metal. They do it before they do any straightening on bumpers so they are only working bare steel.

SPark

[Alan Mclennan]

Take it to a plater's shop, they reverse the polarity and the chrome falls off as mentioned above, same for nickel and copper coats. You will get it back as bare metal. They do it before they do any straightening on bumpers so they are only working bare steel.

SPark

Thanks Steve for backing me up mate, I can tell you know what you are on about!....................

[Toyz]

Keep in mind that the copper acts as a "filler"; once removed you will need to correct any imperfections. Thus, if you are starting with a suitable surface, you can avoid potential hours of work, as well as a build-up of materials, by simply creating a surface for the primer to adhere to. The potential problem is "break-through" to the copper, creating adhesion issues.
Paul

[bird55]

Just an FYI, if you do try sandblasting And I mean the Industrial grade, not the homespun version, It may be problematic. The chrome finish tends to roll up and not come off consistently. So you may create more problems that way. Back to the chrome shop is better, IMHO.

[Toyz]

Pretty good info here! Yep, "industrial" blasting can be problematic! Today's media selection yields a process for most any application, from walnut hull blasting to Black Beauty, for examples. IF you want to actually de-chrome, then by all means, spend the money and have it vatted. If you have what appears to be an acceptable "chrome" surface, and simply want to insure adhesion, then my course of action is going to be a simple dusting to create adhesion for a suitable primer. Obviously, just like any finishing process; if you don't achieve a suitable sub-strata, you aren't going to create a good finish.
When the "euro look" became popular in the early eighties, media blasting was the standard. Obviously a lot has changed since then. My starting point would still be media "blasting". If that process reveals problem areas, then go with the somewhat expensive, IMO, "dechroming"

Paul