My Mercury M100 & it's 262 transplant

[slick4x4]

Your coil should have a (+) or a (-) plus /. Negative
Power goes to plus
Negative goes to distributor

[X-wind]

After verifying good chassis and engine grounds, with trans in neutral and emergency brake set, try a jumper wire from battery to + side of coil. If it starts , be prepared to pull the jumper in case it decides to remain running. If this actually shows signs of starting, check for voltage at relay "I" terminal. Easy way to do this without assistance is to remove the heavy relay cable running to starter from relay; then jumper from heavy battery plus cable to relay "s" terminal with a test lamp on the "I" terminal connection. If lamp lights when relay is energized, move on to checking "key-on" voltage at coil plus with negative coil terminal jumpered to ground. You should see in the area of 9 volts. Also check wire running from coil "-" to points, especially for any shorts to ground at points or housing. Be sure distributor itself as well as advance plate jumper wire are well grounded. And of course, that points are undamaged and properly gapped. Enough for now, keep us posted.
Paul

I've gone through the shop manual and have simply determined with it that it's a primary wiring problem. Trying to narrow it down in there now.

1)Jumper cable from battery to coil (+) produced spark.
2) Terminal I is energizing

3) how do I check "Key-on" voltage exactly? As in where does the multi meter?

[X-wind]

Okay, I've got spark after changing the coil positive wire to the quick disconnect.

Typical me fashion. When I initially didn't get spark I swapped the cable with an unproven cable that came from the 262 truck. I suspect I had either bad points or grounds which I resolved through my trouble shooting. Took me awhile to think of swapping the wire back.

[X-wind]

Got the 262 running & it sounds great, at this stage of the game. It's hitting nicely on all six cylinders & after the new valve cover, water pump, fuel pump seals it's not leaking anywhere yet.

I do have an exhaust manifold leak. I'm going to swap the 223 manifold setup in for it. Few things are different between the two but the head is the same so it's going to work out I think. The main differences being the 223 has the exhaust control valve & the 262 had the coolent spacer, which I could probably slip on anyway, underneath the carb .. If the hood wills till close on top of the oil bath.

Any suggestions on cleaning up the manifolds? Should I port & polish the intake? Sandblast the whole thing? Take it to a machine shop & ask them to recondition it?

I've got the heavy duty clutch from the 262 on & I think my adjustments are still off. When it idles for more then a minute I start to hear a tick tick tick & can feel it in the clutch pedal. I'm thinking I just need to back that fork out a bit more as that's probably the release bearing that's bouncing?

Should get back out to work on it in a few days. Can't wait to see if she will lug the 3.0 rear end around I have in it. I'm looking for a 3.7 ish ratio in case it require too much flogging to do 60 in any sort of a wind.

Missed replying to a post on page one wondering what I was going to do with the parts truck. I stripped as much as I though was prudent from what I might need & sold the frame after advertising it locally to the scrap yard I've sold a bunch of the parts but still have boxes of stuff. The cab was past being repairable & I didn't get the mounts from it.

If my the truck looks odd to any of you it's probably because it's originally a 63' wrong box. The box was in really ruff shape so I got a 64' box & took 8 inches out of the front of it to fit on the slightly shorter wheel based 63'. I plan to make a trailer with the original box & maybe use the hydraulic dump on the trailer I got with the 262 donour grain truck.

Edited to play with picture sizing.

[The Big M]

Looking good!

For a log-style intake manifold with such sharp bends I wouldn't think there'd be much to be gained by porting, though I suppose some simple port matching wouldn't hurt.

[X-wind]

Just ordered some Eastwood manifold paint.

Going to sandblast manifolds.

http://www.eastwood.com/paints/hi-temp- ... aints.html

[X-wind]

Guys I've a question about the fuel system.

I've got almost 3/4 of a tank & when I undo the fuel line right below the fuel pump (new, mechanical that is the same as the 223) is comes out for a bit then stops? Curious as I thought it would be gravity fed fuel going to the pump. Or is it suppose to be & I have a problem?

The truck will fill the float bowl at idle but I can't do more then that without starving it.

[bruceandersson]

Make sure you have a vented filler cap. The new replacements are not vented and may not allow the fuel to flow like it should. Its also a good idea to verify the state of these older systems. The new fuel will attack all rubber parts. I'd drain the tank, and inspect via the sender hole. Replace all your soft lines to be safe.

[X-wind]

Thanks Bruce! Even with the cap off it is not flowing. Is it designed to be gravity fed to the mechanical pump? I'm perplexed because the line out of the tank comes from the top of the tank.

[bruceandersson]

The line goes in at the top but continues towards the bottom. Take the line off under the cab and see if you have flow there. You could be clogged anywhere along the line.

[X-wind]

No, I don't have flow under the cab. Thanks for clarifying.

I'm not familiar with welding cast but I think I might need to just buy a new manifold here.

[bruceandersson]

Why not try if you're going to replace it anyways? The key to cast is to pre-heat the metal.