Electrical gurus needed

[unibody madness]

So my – pulse generator lasted for 2600 miles since the rebuild it blew, replaced it, it lasted two days and then it blew, got another one from a good friend from Alabama and it lasted two days then blew, so I bought one at rock auto for $36 put it in, it worked fine got in my truck today turned it on no gauges again anybody know what’s going on——-they can’t be all bad

[unibody madness]

Forgot to mention I have gauges and idiot lights

[unclejtl]

you might have a sender wire that has insulation worn and is grounding out letting too much voltage thru the pulse generator. trace all your wires. that's where i'd start.

[FarmMotorSports]

So for my clarification

The 5V IVR is running your fuel gauge and temp gauge. (That's it, nothing else.)
Amp gauge if you have one should be independent.
Oil pressure gauge if installed can be mechanical or IVR feed...
All bulbs (idiot lights) are 12v feed. ( Double check this, has its own feed from ignition switch)

http://www.fordification.info/tech/wiring_62.htm

So your only feeding the fuel and temp... One of those circuits is either providing a dead short that is over loading the IVR... (I doubt this scenario... You should also see wild gauge readings)

Or one or both of these circuits is being feed 12v ... Most likely by wiring under dash.
Or poor grounds at the block and head leaving the starter looking for places to ground when you start the truck.

It only takes one crossed black & green stripe wire, feeding 12v to a 5v to irritate a IVR... Or one or two 12v bulbs pulling more amps than the IVR can feed to cause headaches. It only takes one previous owner screwing with the black and green stripe feeds behind the gauges to cause headaches..

Grounds, you should have...
One motor to battery ( larger gauge to carry starter voltage back to battery, motor to frame, and battery to frame can land here too).
One frame to body ( prefer one to core support and one to cab separately )
One cylinder head to cab. ( optional, but recommended... You don't notice the main grounds slowly loosing contact, but that small ground on the head melting the insulation off from carrying a load gets your attention while your under the hood.)
Bed to frame (again optional...can help the taillights be brighter)
And since we are having problems with the gauge cluster, let's add a ground from cluster case to cab.

Is it obvious I don't trust grounds to pass from body to mounting bolt to frame?

Thats my first thoughts... I'll bet you've already checked all of these..

[unibody madness]

will let you know tomorrow if idiot lights still work.Amp guage works just fine, I will check sending units for wires going to ground. fuel tem and gas uages all effected,Thanks for the input

[FarmMotorSports]

You might check both terminals of the key switch are consistent about sending power to idiot lights and IVR.

[unibody madness]

Not sure what the you’re talking about Pat you have to remember I have high school electronics from th late 60s. Give me a call so we can discuss. Brain is a bit frasseled at this point