frame restoration question

slick4x4 · Post by **slick4x4** » September 16, 2008, 9:51 pm

in the past when i have painted frames, after a couple years they
look shabby. is there a special paint for frames?
i am not going to have it sand blasted, just power-wire-brushed and
power-washed.
im not looking for a show-truck quality finish, just something
very durable, that doesnt flake&peel over time.

http://pictures.aol.com/ap/viewHoo.do?t ... lor=000000[/code]

Post by **Kid** » September 16, 2008, 10:02 pm

POR-15, comes in a few colors and works great on frames. I have used it and really like it. It can be brushed on or sprayed...........Kid

Alan Mclennan · Post by **Alan Mclennan** » September 16, 2008, 10:45 pm

Don`t get it on your skin! Pat,

Alan,

61 Merc · Post by **61 Merc** » September 16, 2008, 11:31 pm

Alan Mclennan wrote: Don`t get it on your skin! Pat,

Alan,

Just maye you send Colleen out to paint it so you don't get it on you.

I can say that because I am a thousand miles away.

Dean

slick4x4 · Post by **slick4x4** » September 17, 2008, 8:33 am

looked up por-15 on internet
looks like what im wanting to use
i will give it a try

as for colleen doing the painting, it always makes me nervous when i
hears somebody say

when they are working on my stuff!

Johnny Canuck · Post by **Johnny Canuck** » September 17, 2008, 8:39 am

Por 15 works great, just don't breathe the fumes. They are literally cyanide

lefty · Post by **lefty** » September 17, 2008, 8:45 am

I just LOVE that stuf...(cough-cough) and it has'nt effecateda mE yEtt!!

Garbz · Post by **Garbz** » September 17, 2008, 9:25 am

POR is ment to be top coated.. It is not UV stable and will turn to black or grey chalk in a few years.

Do it as a system and it will last about forever.

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » September 17, 2008, 10:45 am

i did the whole POR-15 system on my 66 4x4 frame, been 7 years now, still looks good.
took a long time to get that stuff off my hands.

my66longbed · Post by **my66longbed** » September 17, 2008, 6:54 pm

Have you thought about powder coating? I was able to get my 66 frame powder coated for around $300. Don't know what your budget is...

jwh f-100 · Post by **jwh f-100** » September 17, 2008, 8:17 pm

The above options IMO are the way to go but here is a option. I steam cleand and wire brushed my frame then painted with rustoleum with a brush. I am quite pleased with the results. The only thing I regret was using a gloss black. I think a semi or satin black would have looked better on the frame.

slick4x4 · Post by **slick4x4** » September 17, 2008, 8:27 pm

that looks good Jason, and i have done similar work on some frames
but after a couple of years, they dont look as good as i think they should.
which brings up another question, what did the frames have for a coating
from the factory, back in the 60s? were they even painted, or were they
bare steel?

cdherman · Post by **cdherman** » September 17, 2008, 8:53 pm

Whatever you do, I think the real issue is how good you clean it up before you paint.

I've not used POR-15, so perhaps it can make up for not getting all the rust off. But my deep mistrust of rust makes me doubt that in the LOOONG run. Sooner or later, rust always gets out, unless you have grubbed it out like a dandilion, all the way to the roots...

I doubt that frame is going to bust from rust anytime soon. Wait till you can sandblast it down to bare metal and then paint with whatever you like -- it will hold.

A decent 60 gal compressor is $400 from Home depot and Habor Freight has a pressure tank sandblaster for under $100. Coal Slag is $10 a bag, or you can sift and dry your own sand. Just don't breath the dust from real "sand" as it can cause trouble in your lungs. Silicosis as its called, usually affects only people that have sand blasted for many years though, so if you can find good dry fine sand, it probably OK.......

Alan Mclennan · Post by **Alan Mclennan** » September 17, 2008, 9:05 pm

Hey Pat !, What truck are you doing this work on?, is it the 4x4 or is it the thing I heard a rumor about you picked up on the way home from Slickstock!, just nosey I guess

shawns fords · Post by **shawns fords** » September 17, 2008, 9:33 pm

POR15 chassis coat is for rusty ol frames, all you want to do is wire brush off loose scale and dirt, you do not want nice clean metal to apply to it or it will peel off, it is actually designed to convert rust and protect the chassis. it is VERY durable and a small can goes a very very long way. I bought a trial kit off the internet for 19.95 or something and I did my front straight axle with it and it still looks like new after 3 years

now if you use it to cover external components which recieve UV light ( sun rays) then you will have to apply top coats with UV protectants on top of the POR, It is best for drip rails on your cab because it gets into the pitted regions and converts rust and seals it all up. then you paint over the top
I also have looked at some rustoleum products lately at lowes and home depot, there seems to be a good rust converter in their line up as well and you can buy them by the quart. I have been deciding weather or not to try it on my studebaker because it is affordable for one and available locally for two

Remember you do not want the metal to be cleaned up or POR will not adhere

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » September 17, 2008, 9:49 pm

beside doing the frame i also did both sides top and bottom of the cab floor and the drip rails with the thick gray POR which did not need a topcoat and the firewall, kickpanels and stepwells with POR 2 part epoxy hardnose red.
that stuff is indestructable if prepped correctly. if not for the cost i would do a whole truck.

slick4x4 · Post by **slick4x4** » September 17, 2008, 9:53 pm

T H A N K S
for all the advice
this internet is so good for finding out info

Alan this is another truck alltogether
it is a 1959 f100 4x4, 223, 4spd (not a slick)

i bought it because that was the first year Ford offered 4x4 straight
from the factory.
bought it from ORIGINAL owner
VERY rough (rust) but the glass is perfect. no bad dents
i am not going to restore it, but i am taking the body off of the frame
just to CLEAN it! there will be no mud,grease,ect. i will paint the frame
but not the body panels , just polish them as good as possible
then reassemble. i know this sounds crazy,but this truck deserves to
be restored by a professional, and i dont posess the skills or
$$$$ to do it correctly.

UNIFAN · Post by **UNIFAN** » September 17, 2008, 10:53 pm

These are pictures of POR 15 chassis black applied by spraying over a freshly blasted frame with no other prep. If you blast it then apply directly it gives enough tooth to adhere and it is thick enough and self leveling to look slick even though you don't sand the frame after blasting and before spraying. Frame must be in raw blasted state to work properly.

Thunderboy · Post by **Thunderboy** » September 18, 2008, 11:50 am

This is a really interesting thread. I've been reading POR 15 testimonials from slick owners since when this site was on MSN. Rust isn't really an issue for me, but I like how durable it is, and it appears the POR 15 needs both less prep, and is more economical than powdercoating. Does that seem accurate to you guys?

I am not afraid to spray a frame and interior body components (but I wouldn't attempt to paint the exterior of my slick!).

If a person sprays this stuff (instead of brushing on), can one do this to a frame without a spray booth? Sounds like the fumes are nasty - Is it even more toxic that "regular" automotive paints?

Drew

shawns fords · Post by **shawns fords** » September 18, 2008, 6:11 pm

I did alot of scrubbing on my straight front axle with the marine clean and hot water from the por store, then the metal prep for etching the surface, then added 3 coats of semi gloss chassis coat and here is before

and after

about 3 years later on the truck

one of these days I will get to the actual frame