Slick 60's

The vertical ribs stick up over the top of the bed so they're visible when the truck is assembled, and after discussing it with the owner we both though it would look better with that area flat.





Cut, moved down about 5", overlapped to scribe the cut line.







Starting to get it welded in. This was a nightmare because of all of the stress in the metal around the ribs from when it was originally stamped. Not only were the welds shrinking liken normal, but the heat from welding was relaxing the stress and making the panel move around like crazy. 10/10 would recommend not cutting the whole panel out like this, but only cut the tip of each pocket instead to minimize welding/warping.





With the lower area in I made a rough cut a filler panel and scribed a trim line.









Straightening the weld seams, checking progress with aluminum c-channel.









Not perfect but good enough for a thin skim.




I also had to slightly reshape and relocate the inner brace slightly lower so that it would still land on the ribs and not the new filler panel.

I'd been seeing posts and videos about using splines/long spreaders to spread filler over large areas to the correct shape to cut down on sanding, along with using Rage Xtra mixed into Rage Ultra to extend work time so you'd have time to use a large spreader to get the filler on and shaped before it set up. I made a few in different sizes using 1/4" lexan, the longest was doubled to increase rigidity so it would hold a very consistent slight curve over the entire length. The shorter one is abut 30", and the shortest is about 16" and narrower to let it curve easier. I'll grab more pics and include them in the next update.







I was able to get the upper back of the cab in shape with only three skims, with very little blocking needed to get it super straight. The shot with the c-channel shows just how straight the filler is even without being sanded yet.







There was a bit of a learning curve, but once I started getting the hang of it I got the back of the cab shaped up pretty trouble free. There is very little wasted filler since you have a lot of work time- any excess from the area you're working can be applied to another low area and spread to shape before it sets up.





To get the ribs shaped up, I milled 3/8" lexan to match the 45* angles.









Spreader trimmed to the correct shape, with a little allowance for applying enough to block.





Guide taped in place to keep the spreader straight, and results of skimming/blocking.









The tips got their own cut to shape spreader, and a guide to keep the height of each matching and level.







The body line had a few irregular areas so I built those up and blocked it to the correct shape. I taped over most of the block to keep 3/4th of it from cutting, and used it to get the built up area 95% flat without digging into what I'd already blocked around it.










The upper part of the body line was blocked with a durablock wrapped in 150, with 90% of the face masked off so only about 1/8" of the edge was exposed. This made it easy to bring down the line until it was dead straight all the way across, and left a perfect 1/4 round radius.







Starting the roof skims using the middle length spreader. All three sectioins of the roof had a very slight flat spot in the middle, and the spreader was able to perfectly bridge across the low and create the correct overall shape using the to sides as a guide.






Once all of the lows were identifided and skimmed individually, I did a very light overall skim to fill an any pinholes/spreader marks.






Prepped and shot with epoxy.






Blocking the epoxy to show any missed spots. I blocked the center, then along the entire outer rear ~1.5" with a long 3/8" block to create a constant light line before the inner section dipped lower, masked that area, then transitioned in the center dip to the tape line.








1/8" thick half width block for more flexibility.






1/4" half width block for less flexibility.

Last coats of epoxy, these areas are nearly ready to paint. I left the areas around the jambs bare since they'll be worked with the panels assembled.

http://youtube.com/shorts/AzqpTSiYp8U?s ... -nsLoJ0Ylx

Impressive as ever!

I'm going to have to check in more often after seeing what I've been missing here. Still doing great work I see, always nice to see someone doing work at this level of craftmanship.

FarmMotorSports wrote: ↑December 19, 2025, 7:02 pm Impressive as ever!

chris401 wrote: ↑December 23, 2025, 8:17 pm

grump wrote: ↑December 27, 2025, 9:34 pm I'm going to have to check in more often after seeing what I've been missing here. Still doing great work I see, always nice to see someone doing work at this level of craftmanship.

Thanks guys!

Got the cab and bed on the frame for final fitting. The engine had a power steering reservoir relocation kit mounted to the driver side but it interfered with the inner fender, so I had to remove it to fit the inner fender. After talking with the owner we decided to hide the tank under the inner fender, with the lid coming through at the front.






I initially was just going to cut a hole and have the lid pop through, but that looked out of place/unfinished, and the metal at the front edge was pretty stretched and loose, so I made a recessed circle on the Pullmax and welded it in which shrunk the loose metal and it looks way better.




To make the recess I used a set of dies I already had that were meant to roll the edge of a panel. I took the backstop off and made a shorter flat piece to bolt in place of it, and set up the circle cutting clamps in the throat to make a perfect circle.










To roll an inner flange I tacked an old bearing race on the back and used a mallet to fold the flange in.




Welded together.

The radiator support is a reproduction '65 support that needs some mods to fit a '66, no one makes the correct '66 support. The original support and inner fenders were rusty and had crash damage so I used the inner fenders from the same parts truck we got the roof from. '65 inner fenders and the mounting flanges on the rad support were different, so I needed to rework the flanges to fit the '66 inner fenders and have more room for the '66 radiator.





Difference in angle of the lower flange.








Spotwelds drilled to remove the '65 radiator brackets.




New lower flanges.








The donor inner fenders were better but not perfect so I had a few areas to straighten out.








I slightly rounded off the sharp corners on all of the edges.




On the back of the mounting flanges, I ground the outer edges at about a 15* angle to bevel the edges, once it's painted the edges won't dig into the firewall and chip the paint underneath.




This area was dented and I couldn't really tell what the original shape would've been, and after knocking the dent out the area was floppy/loose. The rest of the inner fenders have sharp, straight bends with flat areas in between and this area was rounded so it looked out of place. I made marks with a straight edge and hammered in creases with a chisel and hammer over a sandbag, then used the shrinking disk to bring the rounded areas down until they were flat.






After-






All of the original wavy edges were flattened, and I trimmed back the areas around the new crossmember to make more room for getting in there with tools to align it, and room for the power steering reservoir hoses.




Extra holes welded up.