Slick 60's

I removed that cross member when I put my CV setup in. I don't think it's an issue, but I did box my frame all the way to the cab! I used 3/16" plate. I bet I still have the waterjet file, I could find it for you if you need it. The rack definitely looks like an issue! The 5.4 3V in my truck is pretty far back, I bet I could've moved it even farther, but didn't really need to, but it might help in your situation. Looks like the steering might be a little issue too!

Keep us posted, should be a good runner when you guys are done!

kstones63 wrote:The engine is out. This pic shows the Jag IFS in the truck and you can see the problem with the rack and the oil pan.


We need to remove the rear engine cross member before we try the new engine in it's place.
Should there be something to replace that cross member? My truck didn't have a cross member there.
The front fenders come off on Saturday.

Kevin

Hey Kevin, I've been talking to you a little about my truck but I will fill everyone else in real quick.

I am working on a very similar project. I have jag ifs sectioned 2" up into the frame, mark viii irs, and 4.6 mod engine in my 65. I had no issues with the rack/ oil pan clearance, there is actually inches between the two. That being said I don't know how much difference there is between the mark 8 and navigator oil pans.

I built my own motor mounts , I centered the tranny in the tunnel (about 2 inches towards the passenger side) and mounted it as high as I could without trimming the firewall. It is a big engine but its also a pretty big engine compartment. If you look at the above pic and imagine the engine centered in the tunnel you can visualize the oil pan missing the rack.

The only problem I had was getting my column to hook up to the rack around the enormous stock mark viii driver side exhaust manifold. But a set of manis off a cobra should cure my problems.

The P/S lines will be a little tight to my motor mounts but it shouldn't be to big of an issue. the mount is almost directly above where the lines go into the rack.

Mine is a 65 so my frame is taller and my column is mounted higher in on the firewall. I don't think there would be any problems on a 64 and down rig, especially if you don't have that jag crossmember sectioned up into your frame. plus that cross member hangs down further than the oil pan so its pretty well protected.

I will be working on the truck the next few days so I will get some pics for yall.

here is the gap between the oil pan and rack on the driver side. couple inches of room, i uploaded a few other pics to show how it sits, check out my gallery. hopefully this helps with some of your problems

Holy crap those are big, anybody know how to resize them?

I see the difference. I guess if I would have looked under mine, I would have seen it sooner. The pan is different on the 4.6, it is smaller. The sump on the 5.4 is 11" from the back to the front of the sump.
The Mark VIII pan is angle down towards the sump and the Navigator is pretty much squared off.
I will post some pics as soon as I get them loaded.

Kevin

This engine is going to fit, at least I hope so. We set it down in the frame this afternoon and the oil pan did hit the rack. The engine still needs to go down in the back but it can't yet because of clearance issues.

This is the problem. The oil pan is really big on this engine. I will need to clearance it back close to 2" so the back of the engine can settle down where it needs to be and it needs to move forward some.

The steering is going to be tight but it should fit down by the manifolds without a problem.
It is going to clear the hood without any problems even with the tall intake on it.

65styleside, Your engine appears to be sitting higher than this one will need to be. We are going to have the front of the oil pan down to about 1/2" off of the cross member. That makes the rack clearance issue even worse. The 5.4 is a taller engine than the 4.6 and then the Navigator intake makes it really tall. Now if the Mark VIII oil pan is interchangeable with this engine, all of our problems should be solved.

Kevin

Here is my solution to the oil pan problem.
I cut out 2 1/2" out of the center of the pan and then cut the front section out, moved it back and then I will weld it back together. I will need to fill the front section but I figured that would be the easiest place to patch back together.



We will lose 46 oz. of oil by removing this section. I haven't decided how to replace that oil yet but I am thinking about adding an extra sump on each side of the pan. We need 83 C.I. of oil to replace.
We could buy a new pan but they are between $3-400 and where is the challenge in doing that?

Kevin

Looks like you are getting the problem handled with the oil pan .


Rick

Kevin, how about an external oil cooler and a dual filter? all remotely mounted. That should add to the capacity.

Tim

Fanatic wrote:Kevin, how about an external oil cooler and a dual filter? all remotely mounted. That should add to the capacity.

Tim

I had thought about that but my concern is with the lesser amount of oil in the pan, I am afraid that if the engine is turning high rpm that it might suck the pan dry before it can all return to the pan. If he does end up with a supercharger on this, that could very well happen.
I'm sure that he will only drive this like a little old lady.

Kevin

I would just do what you originaly figured and add sumps to the pan and keep the oil in the pan where it was .


Rick

We got the water jet files for the front frame boxing plates from karaskustoms and had them made today. He had the plates going all the way to the cab mounts but I had them shortened to 18" long. I figured that would be enough to hang the motor mounts on. I am going to plate the outside of the frame up to the Jag IFS along with this. They fit in really nice but I did have to do a little bit of grinding to make them fit.
They will get installed on Saturday morning and we plan to start making motor mounts the same day.
Nick is leaving again next week so we will try to get as much done as possible before he leaves again.

Kevin

rickairmedic wrote:I would just do what you originaly figured and add sumps to the pan and keep the oil in the pan where it was .


Rick

We scrapped the pan. My tig welding skills aren't very good yet so I went back to the Mig, got the pan too hot and warped the mounting flange. We decided that it wasn't worth the effort to get it straightened out and then have to add the side sumps to it and maybe warping it again. We didn't think that it was worth taking the chance on having oil leaks. He bought a new Moroso pan that will give us even more clearance than what we were had and it holds 7 quarts of oil already.

Kevin

More progress today. We got the frame rails boxed in.


The engine sat down into the truck just like it belongs there.


This is what we made for engine mounts.


The notch cut out is to be able to get a socket on the bolt that goes into the engine.
The lower mount looked like it would be fine when it was on the bench but looking at it in the pic, I think that we need to bring the lower gusset over more to be under the rubber mount. The metal is two pieces of 3/16" so we have 3/8" of steel there but it still doesn't look right. I will finish welding it all in when I know that the trans will fit correctly and there aren't any other concerns.

On Sunday the transmission will go in so we can see what kind of problems that we will run into. Hopefully none.

Kevin

Sorry guys haven't updated about the truck lately I have been out of state working again. I am currently in Augusta Maine going to New Hampshire here in a couple days then to Canada. My dad will keep up the updates since I am not there right now.

Saturday I took the motor mounts out and relocated them. I moved the engine up another 1/2" and back another 3/4". I moved the right side motor (frame & engine) mount forward so that we would have room for the Sanderson headers. I think that they are going to fit.
I got the transmission mount finished and installed.

We received the Jag IRS mounts a couple of weeks ago so now it is ready to go in.


I took the IRS apart today and had parts scattered all over. It is a lot of parts but it really isn't that complicated. The new mounts will be a lot better than that big ugly cage that was installed from the factory.


I got the new crossmember cut and set in place. I am going to mount the lower control arms so I can check the wheel placement and ride height before I start welding anything in place. I am going to move the axle forward 1" and then check the placement.

We ordered the mount with the 3" rise so if I need to cut into the bed floor to get the ride height lower.

Kevin

Looks pretty good, Kevin!
How is the pinion angle set/ maintained?
Paul

The pinion angle will be set solid and won't move. I have the truck set up on jack stands at the proper rake that I have figured it should be.
There are 2 different versions about the pinion angle on a Jag. One says that it should be level so the lower controls arms are flat and others set it at 3 degrees uphill. If the pinion is uphill 3 degrees, the LCA move up at an angle and make the wheel move backwards some, but the axle also moves back with springs. With the pinion sitting level, it has some movement because of the rubber mounts around the cage to allow for driveline vibrations. I am planning on setting it at 3 degrees uphill to match the trans angle since everything will be mounted solid.
After I get the cross member welded in to the frame, I plan on boxing the frame around the cross member. This way I can make sure that it is where I want it.

Kevin

Followed your last truck and now this one looks good.
Wondering what the cost is to swap the 4.6 or 5.4 into the f100?

Gcwstang wrote: Wondering what the cost is to swap the 4.6 or 5.4 into the f100?

That all depends on how you do it. I bought a complete Mark VIII to get the engine and trans, sold parts off of the car and got more than my money back. I did have to have both of them rebuilt so up went that price. I dissected the harness myself so that was basically a zero cost.

Nick bought the engine and trans for $875 and hopefully we won't have to rebuild them. The wiring harness is hacked up on this one so he will have to buy a harness for this at about $900. The rest is small parts, motor mounts and things like that. He did sell the engine out of the truck to recoup some of that money.
We have sold so many parts from this truck and the Jag that he has less than $3,000 in this truck at this point including the price of the truck and all of the Jag parts. That will change real soon as we will be getting into more pricey parts.

Kevin